Replacing Fuel Pump
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Falling off a log easy. Less than a 30 minute job the first time you do it. '
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 190
From: Custer, WI
Did this about a week ago and it is very easy. I have read about the fuel pump assembly mounting bolts breaking off in the gas tank but I didn't experience that.
My new pump is so quiet I can't even hear it when it primes the fuel rail. The old one I could hear very distinctly.
My new pump is so quiet I can't even hear it when it primes the fuel rail. The old one I could hear very distinctly.
Last edited by Pwnage1337; Aug 7, 2010 at 03:00 AM. Reason: Left something out
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 763
Falling off a log easy. Less than a 30 minute job the first time you do it. '
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
Like this guy wrote with pictures?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
great write-up Frizlefrak -
. the fuel pump is one thing i've never done. i did have a pump failure in my 85 years ago, but i was about 100 miles from home, and at the mercy of a local dealer. ended up paying $286 (parts and labor). didn't think that was too bad considering the circumstances. i have filed your article in my tech library, and hopefully some day i WON'T have to use it - 
. again, thanks for taking the time to write and photograph the procedure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
Likes: 508
From: South-central Missouri
Just to add...
If you have those plastic ratchet-type hose clamps on your pump, don't try to reuse them. Pitch 'em and go with the worm gear hose clamps.
Speaking of bolts breaking off (unlikely) when I did the pumps (yes two on a Z) I found a friggin red shop towel floating around in the tank.
Something tells me it wasn't the first rodeo for the fuel pumps on my beloved ZR-1!
Good ol ACE Hardware had stainless bolts to replace the originals. You'll likely have to do a bit of cleanup around the gasket area - or at least I did (rust, ya know). BUT! you don't want to use steel wool or ANY frigging thing that might cause a spark...if you know what I mean. I used a bead of Permatex instead of a gasket. Works well!
P.
If you have those plastic ratchet-type hose clamps on your pump, don't try to reuse them. Pitch 'em and go with the worm gear hose clamps.
Speaking of bolts breaking off (unlikely) when I did the pumps (yes two on a Z) I found a friggin red shop towel floating around in the tank.
Something tells me it wasn't the first rodeo for the fuel pumps on my beloved ZR-1!Good ol ACE Hardware had stainless bolts to replace the originals. You'll likely have to do a bit of cleanup around the gasket area - or at least I did (rust, ya know). BUT! you don't want to use steel wool or ANY frigging thing that might cause a spark...if you know what I mean. I used a bead of Permatex instead of a gasket. Works well!
P.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Like this guy wrote with pictures?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,357
Likes: 3,253
From: Hartford WI
Falling off a log easy. Less than a 30 minute job the first time you do it. '
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
1. Remove the fuel door.
2. Remove the rubber boot.
3. Disconnect the harness
4. Remove the fuel pump assembly bolts
5. Carefully lift the assembly out of the fuel tank, and tape up the opening to keep fumes out of your garage.
6. Remove the pump from the sending unit, and install the new pump. Replace pulsator hose (many use fuel injection line) and filter sock.
Reverse steps 1-5
You won't even finish the second beer
Step 1, Beer
Step 2, Beer
Step 3, Beer
Step 4, Beer,
Step 5, Beer
Step 6, Beer
6 beers right there. Then one to celebrate, 6 more to reinstall, 1 more to celebrate. Test takes 1 more beer and 1 more to celebrate. 10 beer job.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,357
Likes: 3,253
From: Hartford WI
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 0
From: Aspen, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'15
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Concord, California
Horror Story
Had a repair shop tell me mine would take 3+ hours to do that on my 1988. He then came back and said he made a mistake and that it is only 1 hour in the labor guide. $160/ hour labor with parts and I felt like I had be raped for just a little ole fuel pump.
I fill up with gas whenever the read out is 1/4 full just so I don't have to get another pump soon!
I fill up with gas whenever the read out is 1/4 full just so I don't have to get another pump soon!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,357
Likes: 3,253
From: Hartford WI
Had a repair shop tell me mine would take 3+ hours to do that on my 1988. He then came back and said he made a mistake and that it is only 1 hour in the labor guide. $160/ hour labor with parts and I felt like I had be raped for just a little ole fuel pump.
I fill up with gas whenever the read out is 1/4 full just so I don't have to get another pump soon!
I fill up with gas whenever the read out is 1/4 full just so I don't have to get another pump soon!
Why? What has one got to do with the other? Surely you don't believe the old wives tale of fuel cooling the pump.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
This is my project for tonight. I have a new fuel pump and pulsator ready to be installed into my 85 and hopefully it doesn't turn into a major project. I will clean the sending unit when I have it out as well, my gauge reads full until its about 2/3 empty, then it starts to work. I have a new gasket and plan to use the original bolts. Is there anything I need to do with the old bolts, i.e. sealant on the threads, etc?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
This is my project for tonight. I have a new fuel pump and pulsator ready to be installed into my 85 and hopefully it doesn't turn into a major project. I will clean the sending unit when I have it out as well, my gauge reads full until its about 2/3 empty, then it starts to work. I have a new gasket and plan to use the original bolts. Is there anything I need to do with the old bolts, i.e. sealant on the threads, etc?
IF you have a pulsator you can use it but it's best to replace it with a piece of fuel injection hose. Do not use just any old rubber hose.
I saw your thread on this as well but I don't know about the particular pump you're putting in. I would think they should all be pretty similar though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
I never put any sealant on mine. Clean the old bolts if you don't have new ones.
IF you have a pulsator you can use it but it's best to replace it with a piece of fuel injection hose. Do not use just any old rubber hose.
I saw your thread on this as well but I don't know about the particular pump you're putting in. I would think they should all be pretty similar though.
IF you have a pulsator you can use it but it's best to replace it with a piece of fuel injection hose. Do not use just any old rubber hose.
I saw your thread on this as well but I don't know about the particular pump you're putting in. I would think they should all be pretty similar though.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,357
Likes: 3,253
From: Hartford WI
progress updates?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
Now for a new FRP. Better get more beer.
Last edited by ejscarfo; Aug 12, 2010 at 02:13 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,357
Likes: 3,253
From: Hartford WI
That's the thing. Its installed, I did it last night. New Facet-Purolator pump, OEM strainer and Motormite pulsator. I fixed the gas gauge as well. Its holding pressure, finally. It idles at 32psi and this morning, after sitting for 9 hrs (I left the gauge on to check it), it only bled down to 20psi. Before, with the old assembly, it would bleed down to 10psi in 5 minutes. Didn't get a chance to road test it, but it idles fine and seems smooth when I rev the engine, no hesitation.
Now for a new FRP. Better get more beer.
Now for a new FRP. Better get more beer.