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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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I am working on getting the '85 I just bought road ready. It is in really good shape, but I feel that investing in basic things up front will be a good idea.

I am looking at a tune up, so that is plugs and wires. I plan on picking up AC Delco OEM replacements. Should I just go ahead and replace the cap, rotor and coil since I am at it?

I will also be replacing all of the fluids:

Oil
Transmission (Auto)
Coolant
Brake fluid

Am I missing anything?
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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May as well do the cap and rotor as long as your putting new wires in. I have to do the same this winter.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Yes, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil (perhaps). How many miles? If you are over 75,000 then think about also replacing the distributor terminal board.

Plug wires, no need to go AC Delco unless you are trying to keep it stock looking. I use MSD wires.

Air filter...check it.

Fuel filter. I change mine every 10,000. Located on passenger side (inside frame rail) behind front tire.

To change coolant, drain radiator, pull knock sensor on passenger side (in front of starter) it has a shield over it. And also unscrew the pipe plug in the block on the drivers side. This will drain the entire block and radiator. When you take out the knock sensor, it may not drain due to rust build up inside the block. Take a screwdriver and insert it in the hole.....coolant will come out FAST...so be prepared.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by PreynMantis
I am working on getting the '85 I just bought road ready. It is in really good shape, but I feel that investing in basic things up front will be a good idea.

I am looking at a tune up, so that is plugs and wires. I plan on picking up AC Delco OEM replacements. Should I just go ahead and replace the cap, rotor and coil since I am at it?

I will also be replacing all of the fluids:

Oil
Transmission (Auto)
Coolant
Brake fluid

Am I missing anything?
One item that usually gets overlooked is the fuel filter, i'd replace that while you're at it. The cap and rotor are a must if you plan on doing wires and plugs.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
Yes, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil (perhaps). How many miles? If you are over 75,000 then think about also replacing the distributor terminal board.

Plug wires, no need to go AC Delco unless you are trying to keep it stock looking. I use MSD wires.

Air filter...check it.

Fuel filter. I change mine every 10,000. Located on passenger side (inside frame rail) behind front tire.

To change coolant, drain radiator, pull knock sensor on passenger side (in front of starter) it has a shield over it. And also unscrew the pipe plug in the block on the drivers side. This will drain the entire block and radiator. When you take out the knock sensor, it may not drain due to rust build up inside the block. Take a screwdriver and insert it in the hole.....coolant will come out FAST...so be prepared.
Thanks to everyone for the replies.

It has 75,000 miles, it has not had many at all the last few years.

Distributor terminal board? I am not familiar with that and Rock Auto doesn't list it, not that I could see. Is that the cap/cover?

I found a set of Delco wires for $21, so that seems a good buy. That and I do like the stock look.

I already changed the air filter, it was bad.

Thank you for the advice on the fuel filter, I will add that to the list.

Does anyone have an opinion on Standard Motor Products ignition parts?
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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"Distributor terminal board? I am not familiar with that and Rock Auto doesn't list it, not that I could see. Is that the cap/cover?"

It is also called an ignition module.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
It is also called an ignition module.
I see an Ignition Control Module, same thing?
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PreynMantis
I see an Ignition Control Module, same thing?
The ICM should last a very long time. But it will cause hard starting and poor performance if it starts going bad.

Standard Motor Products are OK for many cars, but for things like a distributor cap and rotor, go with MSD. The cap and rotor uses brass terminals and will last longer than the regular aluminum terminals. When buying the cap, make sure you get the proper style. Some C4 distributors will have the spring-loaded clamps and others will use the screw-down clamps.

When you install the wires, use some dielectric grease on the spark plug boots and the coil ends. That will keep moisture out. Make sure the Delco wires are the correct ones for a Corvette and not just a SBC motor; the #6 plug wire should have a 135 degree boot for the spark plug.

Even though the car doesn't have a lot of miles, if the radiator hoses are OEM, replace them. Hoses can get weak on the inside and if the lower hose collapses, it will cut off coolant flow. May not hurt to get a new thermostat too.

How does the PS fluid look? Dirty? You can change that using the "turkey baster method". Get a $2 baster at the local grocery store. Use it to suck all of the PS fluid out of the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid . Drive it around the block a couple times and repeat. Do this 5 or 6 times to get the old fluid out. You don't need anything special for PS fluid, just something like Valvoline PS fluid or similar. Synthetic fluid is OK too.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Ignition Control Module is the same thing. The distributor cap for the 85 is the screw down time NOT THE "L" swing bolts.
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