Pass. Window.quite working have. New motor. But I can't get window regulator out. To change motor need help

 

Please tell us what year Corvette you have. The window mechanisms differed between the early C4 and the later C4's.

Just did the driver side on the 95. You have to remove in this order: Outer Panel, Water Deflector (big flimsy foam gasket), Inner Panel (and at the same time, detaching the door handle and power lock actuator rods). Then use a scribe to mark the locations of the bolts for the window bumpers on top of the door as well as the position of the bolts attaching the window to the regulator. This is really important, to assure correct positioning of the bumpers and window. Take a lot of pics, this will help!

Next, remove, Window and finally the Regulator. The Regulator comes out by swiveling it out counter clockwise and then getting out one portion out of the door shell. Examine the new regulator carefully. They are flimsy and mine had a bent frame and bent attachment bolts at the bottom. I used the old one as a template to eyeball what it should be. When I had it in, I used the old regulator to eyeball where the window should be, by referencing the scribe marks on the old one.

It wasn't an easy job and by being careful, it took me 4.5 hours. Didn't damage anything and it worked excellent when done. Be patient and try to 'outsmart the part', as it's gotta come out or go together somehow! The Factory Service Manual was superbly helpful. Hope this helps.

 

Its a 96coupe ian just replacng the motor. Only

 

There's no way you're going to get the motor out without removing the entire regulator. The motor is at the bottom of the regulator and at the absolute bottom of the door. The motor is behind the structure of the inner door shell at the bottom. I purchased the regulator and motor as a whole package, because it appears the motor is riveted in and I didn't feel like dealing with that.

If you don't have the Factory Service Manual, I wouldn't do this job, as it is not as easy as you'd think, unless you are an experienced mechanic. I marked the location of every bolt using a scribe, because if it doesn't go in exactly as it came out, you are going to have problems with how the window fits, both vertically and laterally. The adjustment process as outlined in the Service Manual didn't look simple, that's for sure!

Even disconnecting the numerous electrical components was a challenge, especially the power door lock actuator on the back side of the flimsy, steel inner door panel. The FSM said to disconnect before removal, but the latch part of the connector is on the backside of the connector, and access to it was highly difficult. It was easier to remove it after the inner door panel was coming out.

Finally, the door lock and door handle actuator rods have to be removed to remove the inner door panel. These are deep in the upper corner of the door and are a beyatch to unhook. The door lock lever, where the power door lock rod hooks up to is really flimsy too and will easily bend as you try to pop the rod out of it. I used a scribe to pry apart the clip that held the rod in and then was able to get both rods out.

A lot of patience is required. Disconnect the battery too, as you'll blow fuses if you're not careful. If you don't have an FSM, I'd advise getting one, as it's very thorough in how you get the regulator out.

 

Thank you for all. The. Help ill mark everythlng real good got all winter all parades. Are over for this. Year. All. Though. It doesn't snow very often

 

Don't forget and take the pictures too! It was good to know which door or lock rod went in front of which. Good luck.

 

I had my passenger door motor go bad shortly after I got the car in 03 on my 94. I bought a motor for the window regulator. Could not get the regulator out, everything was loose and did not know to drill out the large rivets. I also could not get the window down to continue on the repair and did not know a couple tricks as the dealer did. In an embarrassing moment and a box of screws, I took it to the dealer. They did a good job installing the motor and all ended well.

My point was, is the 96 that much different than the 94 when a motor is needed. As I said, my motor could be replaced?

I know doing that kind of job is a real bi**h and you have detailed the procedure quite well in your posts.

Jim D - Good luck

 

I had to put in my two cents worth. When I bought my 85 the windows didn't work so I took it to a chevy dealership and they quoted me $500.00 per window! As it was late in the season I decided to tackle it myself. It took me a coulple of days to get the panels off and the inner plates. I had a haynes manual and that helped a lot. Although my car was an 85 I discovered that the regulators had been replaced with later model ones. Once you get them out and it just takes a little patience so give yourself a few days if it's not a daily driver. The hardest part was getting the inner plate off because you have to ease those plastic wire holders out of the holes wihtout wrecking them. There are about eight of them. Once I got the regulators out with the motors still attached I found that you can unbolt the cover that goes over the motor. I carefully slipped that off, it has the magnets in it and found the contact or brush that presses against the motor as it spins had a broken wire, so I soldered it back on and it was good as new! The other one had a contact that was worn right done so I replaces it with another one I took out from and old electric can opener and that too worked to this day.
Those days I had a lot of spare time and not much money, so I quickly learned that if you want to own a vette on a limited budget you better learn to do a lot of things yourself. Any how I saved a grand for a few days of tinkering.
In a lot of cases electric motors can be repaired instead of replaced.

 

I have owned three C4s over the years (and still have a 1985 and a 1993 Ruby) and have had several issues with both the early and late window regulators in all of them. The stripped ribbon in the 1985 was an easy fix, and the repair has lasted over ten years (but I still cross my fingers and hold my breath when the weather gets cold and the parts move more slowly). On the 1993, out of the blue, the window stayed down after a trip to the post office. I checked the switches, no problems. I even took them apart and used contact cleaner to get rid of 17 years of grime. Finally, I tried the "GM-whack" trick on the lower part of the door, once the panel was removed. A well-placed bang with a rubber mallet solved the problem (my trusted GM dealer Corvette mechanic showed me how and where) and it's worked well for six months. Now I'm careful not to fully lower and hold the button so as not to lock things down. I do have clean switches, but who's checking? On the older C4s, many electric motors could be "repaired" by eliminating the thermal limiters, but wonder if that's a good idea. It is cheaper, but is it better?

 

just remove four screws on the motors armature cover and replace the electrical parts. did it on my 90 and never had to deal with the motor rivets and they work fine now.

 

Several folks here have commented about owning early and late C4's and I have a question for you.

The windows on my '94 zip up and down quite rapidly while those on my '85, although moving steadily and without any noise, probably take 2-3x as long. Is the latter normal?

Thanks!

John

 

Yes that is normal. 84-86E models used an inferior ribbon style regulator and motor. Alot of plastic parts were used and the speed is much slower. Starting with the late 86 model, GM completely changed to a metal scissor style design (picture).

I have an 86E and I just replaced my driver side regulator with the newer style. The passenger side is still the ribbon style and it is much, much slower.

 

Thanks a million!

John