Over COOLING problem
Race Director
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,742
Likes: 629
From: Manheim Pennsylvania
I revisited your previous info. When the car is sitting engine idling and the temperature is at 180 degrees advance the throttle to 2200 rpm and observe the temperatures. If they drop the increased coolant flow is opening/bypassing the thermostat. Let us know what you observe.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Hampton VA
Ok
Here are the temperatures with the car idling until it is showing 190-200 degrees on the Temperature Gauge and Thermostat is definitely open and cooling fans operating/cycling as advertised:
Then I got into the car and drove home. 37 miles of interstate into my driveway. Here are the readings after pulling into drive way:
1. Top Radiator hose from Thermostat housing to Radiator 115 Degrees
2. Bottom Radiator hose--115 Degrees
3. From reservoir into Heater core 104 Degrees
4. Heater Core output with fan for blower motor running on high 77 Degrees while at highway speeds.
Thermostat housing 145 Degrees right after stopping in driveway.
5. Heat out of vents 97.5 Degrees with vehicle idling
Then I let the car idle in drive way for about 7 minutes and all the temps return to the previously stated temps.
Freeze
Here are the temperatures with the car idling until it is showing 190-200 degrees on the Temperature Gauge and Thermostat is definitely open and cooling fans operating/cycling as advertised:
Then I got into the car and drove home. 37 miles of interstate into my driveway. Here are the readings after pulling into drive way:
1. Top Radiator hose from Thermostat housing to Radiator 115 Degrees
2. Bottom Radiator hose--115 Degrees
3. From reservoir into Heater core 104 Degrees
4. Heater Core output with fan for blower motor running on high 77 Degrees while at highway speeds.
Thermostat housing 145 Degrees right after stopping in driveway.
5. Heat out of vents 97.5 Degrees with vehicle idling
Then I let the car idle in drive way for about 7 minutes and all the temps return to the previously stated temps.
Freeze
Race Director
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,742
Likes: 629
From: Manheim Pennsylvania
The top radiator hose is the inlet, the bottom is the radiator outlet. There is no drop in temperature from the inlet to the outlet. What's that telling us? The coolant is flowing so rapidly that no more heat can be extracted? It has gotta be getting past the thermostat with little or no resistance (the thermostat housing shows a slight increase in temperature). Put the OEM thermostat in it, make sure that the unit is tight in the recess and there is no way for coolant to bypass it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Here are the temperatures with the car idling until it is showing 190-200 degrees on the Temperature Gauge and Thermostat is definitely open and cooling fans operating/cycling as advertised:
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
The top radiator hose is the inlet, the bottom is the radiator outlet. There is no drop in temperature from the inlet to the outlet. What's that telling us? The coolant is flowing so rapidly that no more heat can be extracted? It has gotta be getting past the thermostat with little or no resistance (the thermostat housing shows a slight increase in temperature). Put the OEM thermostat in it, make sure that the unit is tight in the recess and there is no way for coolant to bypass it.
The OP's problem of 100 degree coolant when driving is due to coolant flowing too fast which can happen if the thermostat is too far open or coolant is somehow bypassing the thermostat. Very high waterpump pressure (high flow waterpump) can force open a thermostat.
Last edited by jfb; Feb 2, 2011 at 12:17 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
For the umpteenth time, within the capabilities of normal waterpumps, there is no such thing as coolant going so fast that heat isn't removed. The OP's problem of 100 degree coolant when driving is due to coolant flowing too fast which can happen if the thermostat is too far open or coolant is somehow bypassing the thermostat.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Where is the contradiction? Posters in some of these cooling discussions claim that less cooling occurs if the coolant flow is high. The OP's problem is exactly that, he has 100 degree coolant BECAUSE his coolant flow is high causing excessive heat flow out of the engine.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Posters in some of these cooling discussions claim that less cooling occurs if the coolant flow is high.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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If you are sure that it is over cooling, and not just giving a bad reading at the gauge, you could have a flow problem allowing the coolant to spend too much time in the radiator, just as removing the thermostat will cause a over heating problem due to the coolant flowing too fast through the radiator and not spending enough time in it too cool down, to much time or slow flowing could cause an over cooling problem. also the fans running all the time could cause this problem.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 7
From: Chewelah Wa
I think that we can all agree that if the coolant stopped flowing (closed stat), that the coolant would have no choice but to get "hot". I do not think there is any other way that the coolant could get by a closed thermostat into the radiator.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
Right here from pcmusicer
Chill out, bud. This ain't a seminar and you ain't the professor. The purpose of this discussion was to solve the OP's problem, not denigrate those with a different view.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
ONE comment on the second page of this lengthy discussion prompts you to snarkily complain that you have to explain something "for the umpteenth time?" Your imperial patience must be sorely tried. In any case, I believe your reference was to "posters" (plural) in "some of these discussions" (plural).
Chill out, bud. This ain't a seminar and you ain't the professor. The purpose of this discussion was to solve the OP's problem, not denigrate those with a different view.
Chill out, bud. This ain't a seminar and you ain't the professor. The purpose of this discussion was to solve the OP's problem, not denigrate those with a different view.
Also, you need to look up the meaning of denigrate because I most certainly didn't denigrate anyone over their different view.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Rolla Missouri
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ONE comment on the second page of this lengthy discussion prompts you to snarkily complain that you have to explain something "for the umpteenth time?" Your imperial patience must be sorely tried. In any case, I believe your reference was to "posters" (plural) in "some of these discussions" (plural).
Chill out, bud. This ain't a seminar and you ain't the professor. The purpose of this discussion was to solve the OP's problem, not denigrate those with a different view.
Chill out, bud. This ain't a seminar and you ain't the professor. The purpose of this discussion was to solve the OP's problem, not denigrate those with a different view.
jfb was pointing out a fact to clear a misconception, nothing more.
Facts are one thing we can never have enough of.
We get way too many "A friend told me" type stuff.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Hampton VA
This all good but my car still has no heat!!!
But thanks for all the inputs.
Temp here today is around 70 degrees and I drove pout to lunch and car temps run around 140 degrees on the gauge on a warm day like today. I will let you know tomorrow since it is suppose to go back down to 30 degrees tonight.
FREEZE
But thanks for all the inputs.
Temp here today is around 70 degrees and I drove pout to lunch and car temps run around 140 degrees on the gauge on a warm day like today. I will let you know tomorrow since it is suppose to go back down to 30 degrees tonight.
FREEZE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
He has an air pocket in the system .. The sensor is giving him a false reading because it takes the temp from the coolant. The Heat is not working because he has air in the system.
Burp the system
Burp the system
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
He might have air in his cooling system though.
Humfreeze, turn your rad cap to its first stop, idle engine until the themostat opens, race engine slightly and remove the rad cap, if you have air in your cooling system you will see coolant flowing into the radiator but the coolant level will be out of sight. If so, then engine racing, pour coolant to the top of the rad filler neck, replace the rad cap and then let the engine back down to idle. Take a drive and see if your coolant temp then stays close to the opening temp of the thermostat. Sometimes you have to burp the cooling system more than once.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
He doesn't have false coolant readings. He gets heat at idle and has normal coolant temps, then when he gets on the road, his coolant temp drops and he gets no heat out of his heater core.
He might have air in his cooling system though.
Humfreeze, turn your rad cap to its first stop, idle engine until the themostat opens, race engine slightly and remove the rad cap, if you have air in your cooling system you will see coolant flowing into the radiator but the coolant level will be out of sight. If so, then engine racing, pour coolant to the top of the rad filler neck, replace the rad cap and then let the engine back down to idle. Take a drive and see if your coolant temp then stays close to the opening temp of the thermostat. Sometimes you have to burp the cooling system more than once.
He might have air in his cooling system though.
Humfreeze, turn your rad cap to its first stop, idle engine until the themostat opens, race engine slightly and remove the rad cap, if you have air in your cooling system you will see coolant flowing into the radiator but the coolant level will be out of sight. If so, then engine racing, pour coolant to the top of the rad filler neck, replace the rad cap and then let the engine back down to idle. Take a drive and see if your coolant temp then stays close to the opening temp of the thermostat. Sometimes you have to burp the cooling system more than once.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Hampton VA
I took the vehicle to a well established corvette shop here and they drained and replaced the coolant system level. This is not a coolant air in the system problems. I amcertain there is no air in the system at all.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
I have seen it a thousand times it can and will happen. Do yourself a favor and burp it anyway.
I think you have an air pocket. Either that or you have more than one problem.