Reviving an old 84
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
Yes it is the Duraflex C5 body kit. I would like to warn all considering this mod for their C4 to think very carefully before doing this. The kit comes with an 85% fitment advisory but they don’t tell you that it is the 15% end that will fit right. Lots of problems and added cost to this kit which as blown my budget so probably gonna have to wait on the interior now, which really bites! The panels behind the front wheels were to short as you can see in the following pictures. The rear bumper is really distorted. The front bumper where it meets the hood looks like it was cut with without any lines drawn. Just really really bad. The putty the manufacture used, blew out of the fiber when the folks over at Billy's Restoration were cleaning off some of the dust with air. If you're like me and just want something different then be prepared to spend spend spend. If you want the C5 look, you should just get the C5, added performance with that option. I am not discouraged because I have 100% faith in the guys doing this for me. It will be spectacular when they are done. I sure wish I had done my home work on the quality of this kit before I purchased. Oh Well you know my motto.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Oak Grove arkansas
Once the car has its new paint and I have it back home, I will have some body parts and lights that are free for the taking if anyone in the area or is willing to pay shipping needs.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
okay. back to the subject at hand, oil leaks and plenty of them.
you have a two piece rear main seal right ? the 86 and later one piece rear main seal were intended to cure the cronic leaks associated with a two piece rear seal; but there were some attempts to improve the two piece seal. most, but maybe not your, late seals use a double lip style seal; when the pan is off, pull the reaer main cap and inspect the rear seal and (one) make sure it is installed with the seal lip(s) pointing into the engine, and (two) if it is an earlier style seal with a single lip, replace it with a later style seal with two lips.
on the pan itself, make sure the pan rails are straight and not buggered up, bent or warped; then get a one piece pan gasket. Unfortunately chevy used two styles of front pan seal, a thick and thin style. The gasket must match the style pan used, and from your earlier writing, it sounds like there may be a pan / gasket / timing cover mismatch.
when installing the pan, if you dont already have them, get a pair of pan rail reinforcing strips, these are stock on all later sbc and should be available at any parts recycler. And throw away all those stock pan mounting cap screws; go to a hardware store and get a handful of 1/4" coarse thread studs and four 5/16th " coarse thread studs and matching lock washers and nuts. Installing these first into the block, and then fitting the gasket and pan onto them makes the job much easier. Especially if you're working upside down under the car
On the front seal, pull the balancer, inspect the balancer seal surface for wear or damage; if there is any get a balancer repair kit (inexpensive).
with the balancer off, pull the timing chain cover (check for compatibility with pan gasket / pan) and ensure that the oil slinger disc wasn't left off. At this time, consider tossing the link and pin OEM style timing chain and fitting the engine with a double "true" roller timing chain (or, my favorite, a gear drive...only a suggestion).
absent a loose oil filter, those are about the only places the engine can leak oil on the bottom end. the only other places on the block, would be (improbable but possible) the three (or so) oil gallery plugs on the rear of the block.
I'm glad to see you taking up the challenge of rehabbing an 84; after all these were the cars that started the whole C4 dynasty.
you have a two piece rear main seal right ? the 86 and later one piece rear main seal were intended to cure the cronic leaks associated with a two piece rear seal; but there were some attempts to improve the two piece seal. most, but maybe not your, late seals use a double lip style seal; when the pan is off, pull the reaer main cap and inspect the rear seal and (one) make sure it is installed with the seal lip(s) pointing into the engine, and (two) if it is an earlier style seal with a single lip, replace it with a later style seal with two lips.
on the pan itself, make sure the pan rails are straight and not buggered up, bent or warped; then get a one piece pan gasket. Unfortunately chevy used two styles of front pan seal, a thick and thin style. The gasket must match the style pan used, and from your earlier writing, it sounds like there may be a pan / gasket / timing cover mismatch.
when installing the pan, if you dont already have them, get a pair of pan rail reinforcing strips, these are stock on all later sbc and should be available at any parts recycler. And throw away all those stock pan mounting cap screws; go to a hardware store and get a handful of 1/4" coarse thread studs and four 5/16th " coarse thread studs and matching lock washers and nuts. Installing these first into the block, and then fitting the gasket and pan onto them makes the job much easier. Especially if you're working upside down under the car
On the front seal, pull the balancer, inspect the balancer seal surface for wear or damage; if there is any get a balancer repair kit (inexpensive).
with the balancer off, pull the timing chain cover (check for compatibility with pan gasket / pan) and ensure that the oil slinger disc wasn't left off. At this time, consider tossing the link and pin OEM style timing chain and fitting the engine with a double "true" roller timing chain (or, my favorite, a gear drive...only a suggestion).
absent a loose oil filter, those are about the only places the engine can leak oil on the bottom end. the only other places on the block, would be (improbable but possible) the three (or so) oil gallery plugs on the rear of the block.
I'm glad to see you taking up the challenge of rehabbing an 84; after all these were the cars that started the whole C4 dynasty.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Oak Grove arkansas
The oil leaks have been resolved. But I plan to build the original block to something better than the crate motor I put in it. The idea rolling around in my head is modded TBI's, and Edo crossfire intake and rear mounted twin turbos. I don't even know it this setup is possible and its way on the back burner. I would like to raise the hood and what people see is what appears to be a stock crossfire but with 300+ hp. Probably not possible and just an idea at this point.
