Hey guys, well attempted to install some recently bought OBX longtube headers over the past week... I may get bashed for this but do not buy these unless you plan on getting it installed at an exhaust shop, are a semi good metal worker or have the capabilities, or don't mind altering every bracket/ brace etc associated with or near the headers.

So... I've spent the past week trying to get these to work on my 95 Vette..... I was under the impression when I purchased these that the fit would be somewhat decent ('direct fit' from the dealers description) and wouldn't require much if any alterations the stock components... Boy was I wrong.

The main issue with these headers was all the brackets (AC braces, Alternator brace, and Catalytic converter braces, etc). First off the catalytic converter bracket has to be bent or removed or cut on the drivers side for the header to fit properly. Secondly, because of the fact that some of the pipes bend almost right over the bolt holes reusing the studs is impossible for the AC and alternator braces. You can also not use the spark plug brackets any more that bolt to the engine and guide the Spark plug wires.

I tried everything to not have to fab-up a lot of things but it just wouldnt work with the headers shipped to me...

As a last resort I had it taken to an exhaust shop to dent in the pipes that bent over the flange holes, etc. After that the headers were a 'DIRECT FIT' but still all the surrounding brackets had to be modified.

So as it sits... I stopped the install and reinstalled my stock headers and cats and therefore I have a set of 'DIRECT FIT' OBX headers for an LT1 corvette. If anyone is interested please PM me. Im going to try to get $250 (not including the price of shipping) for everything that came in the box when I got it ('Cats', intermediate pipes, headers, gaskets, etc.)

I was just tired of having to fab-up brackets and such to make these work. I've got a nice, low mileage Vette and was just under the impression that these were bolt on with no modification... And yes I know there are 'no perfect fit headers' but come on guys.

Hope this post gives some insight to some of the guys on the fence about getting these and clears some things up about the set. Overall the quality and construction is great just not for me and my Vette.

-Will

 

That fact has been noted in other OBX install writeups

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1578105450-post1.html

 

research and the "search" function on this site are "good" things, your inexperience doesnt make them a "dont buy", it does make them a "do some research first" . the link provided would have been a good start. there are very few aftermarket exhausts that you can re-use the stock studs with or would even want to. when your engine was first assembled , it was assempled without the car being in the way. several others on this site have had good experiences with them and have provided good tech. info. hope this helps

 

This is why if you don't know what you are doing you should let a pro do the job. Got them installed by my mechanic for $800, no an exhaust shop.Some jobs are not worth the BS you put yourself through.

 

Some tweaking is necessary with any set of headers. Nothing is drop in altho some may be a little easier than others. The OBX's are supposed to be copy's of a $1500 well known brand. Wouldnt you be pissed if you paid that much and you had the same problems?

If yours were for an L98 I would buy them in a second.

 

I'll PM you.

Thanks - Mike

 

My TPIS headers bolted in with no issues at all everything lined up A/C Cat Smog air injectors no issue's at all.

 

You would have to remove the catalytic converter bracket/s with any brand long tube header - not sure why you would want to keep them. The trick to getting the bolts to "fit" is to put them through all holes, then tighten, drawing the header to the head. I did, however have to dent one pipe to clear the alternator/AC bracket. You can't reuse the original maifold studs, as the header flange is only 3/8" thick, whereas the original manifold is ~ 1-3/4" thick. As I posted in the other OBX thread, I made 1.400" spacers to locate the alternator/AC & dipstick brackets in their stock locations (I offered to send you one). You can't use the spark plug brackets with any brand of headers. Sorry these headers didn't work out for you.

 

The stock plug brackets work fine with EM headers on both sides of the engine. I don't have a driver's side shot handy, but here's the passenger side (although it looks like the wires are on top of the headers, there's actually a lot of clearance. I've been running this setup for over two years)...



Other than a couple spacers for the reasons mentioned and some very slight clearancing for peace of mind on one engine mount bracket and one cross-brace (wasn't mandatory), they were bolt in.

 

+2 on the TPIS. You can reuse all the bolts and brackets just they way it came from the factory. (L98 anyway, I'm sure they did the same for the LT)

 

My spark plug brackets worked fine on my LT1, to say there is no tweeking what so ever on a certain brand is

 

Oops, I stand corrected on the wires. The rest holds true. Looking at your pictures, I would say that the OBX fit better, in that I didn't have to grind/cut any of my brackets - probably because they are 1 5/8" tubing and I assume yours are larger.

 

All Vette DIY threads mention some kind of metal work on all headers including shorty headers.

One of my favorite lines will always be "Nothing is Bolt-On"

The good thing is that you got it done, now you got experience and you will enjoy your new headers because the frustration you experienced.

You are already crossing the street and must get to the other side. Whats your next mod?

 

TPIS headers are drilled and tapped for spark plug brackets. Probably why they cost so much more. Those pesky Made in USA wages could be a factor too.

 

To assume that because a cheap set of chinese headers require the customer to perform additional modifications in order to get them to fit properly - ALL other header brands must require the same amount of tweaking as well, is nothing more than an excuse made by someone trying to defend a shoddy product.

For the record, there was absolutely no tweaking/bending or hammering of any sort with my AR header install. They practically fell into place. Best fitting headers I've ever run on any car I've ever owned and I've installed more headers than I can remember.

- and a little off topic, but you spent how much to install your OBX's? $800? Wow.

Your mechanic must have seen you coming from a mile away. Even at an hourly rate of $100/hour (I'm guessing) - that would have meant he spent 8 hours to install your headers?

Either he ripped you off, or those obx headers required a tonne of screwing around with/modifying to get them to fit properly. Either way, it sounds as if you got dealt the short end of the stick.

For what you spent total out of your wallet, you could have bought the entire ARH system system (headers/xpipe/cats/intermediate pipes - basically an entirely new exhaust system besides mufflers) and installed it yourself in your driveway in about 3-4 hours with simple hand tools for nearly the same cost. That's 3-4 hours for a novice mind you, if you've done a header swap on these cars before, install time would be less than that.

Live and learn, I guess...

To the OP, sorry to hear about your troubles with the install. You're right, a product should always perform as advertised. If additional modifications need to be done (no matter how small), it should be stated in the advertising so there's no surprises for the customer. I hope you figured it all out and your car's ready for the road again. Best of luck with it.

 

I spent $490 delivered. How much do American Racing headers cost?

 

I've been looking at obx and keeping track of the threads about them, they are on my 'soon to buy' list.

 

Depending on whether you want cats or no cats, 1 3/4" primaries or larger 1 7/8" stepped headers, you're looking at between $1400-$1600 and change.

Keep in mind though, that cost is not just for headers by themselves, but the headers, Xpipe, intermediate pipes and all required brackets/clamps and hardware as well (except header bolts). Basically, you're getting an entire exhaust system minus the mufflers. The systems are designed to bolt right up to the factory mufflers/over-axle pipes with no cutting or fab work required.

For those who run muffler eliminators or plan on keeping their stock mufflers, basically, the ARH system upgrade's the entire exhaust system all in one shot. I'm running a Corsa exhaust which is pieced together slightly different then stock. Even though the ARH system is designed to fit the stock system, the guy's at ARH had no problems sending me out longer extensions to get everything to bolt right up. Did I mention they did the additional fab work free of charge?

How's that for customer service. The fact that they're an American company as well as a forum sponser is an added bonus. Can't say the same for obx...

 

Something seems amiss with your math, LT1*C4. There's about a $grand$ diff there that needs some explaining...

 

To clarify, "C4speed" mentioned that he coughed up an addition $800+ to install his obx.

I merely stated that with what he spent out of his pocket in total, - he would nearly have had enough to buy the entire ARH system. Those ARheaders are so well designed, that virtually anyone with the simplist of mechanical ability could have installed without issue. If I wasn't clear with my statement, I apologize.

Just wanted to point out that since he had all that money laying around, he could have taken a very different approach to his exhaust upgrade. Best headers on the market + he does his own install, or the cheapest headers on the market and he pays somebody else to install them. Total cost would have been nearly the same either way. That's all I was trying to point out.

Obviously, if we're going just off the cost of parts by themselves, the obx is the cheapest way to go. Unfortunatley, as the OP (and many, many others) can now attest, the "cheapest" way to go, usually isn't the "best" way to go...