What fly wheel and clutch would I need to ditch this dual mass setup?

 

I have a fidanza aluminum flywheel and a centerforce dual friction in my car. If you get a aluminum flywheel be prepared to deal with some chatter for a few thousand miles...

 

what about using a flywheel that was meant for the camaro or firebird lt1 setup?

 

All of the Lt1s use the Dual mass flywheel as far as I know.

 

The fbody flywheel is solid.

 

0.090" must be machined off face of Fbody flywheel to work in C4;

 

I use a spec flywheel and have zero chatter. However I do have and odd ZF because it is not a blue tag but not a true black tag there was a transition that was basically a combination of both but has a black tag used on early 94's

 

Well we got the car apart today and it has what looks to be like a spec flywheel already in it. I pulled it because of a horrible vibration that changes with rpm. I noticed it has a weight bolted to the engine side of the flywheel, could this be the source of my vibration?

 

The weight need to stay. You might Try rotating your Pressure Plate 90 degrees.

 

I am going to take the whole assembly to my machine shop and have the balance checked. I'll post pictures of what came out of the car. It also has a "tranzilla" transmission in it.

 

i'm not sure what the balance should be but if the Pressure plate is zero balanced the weight spec provides is suppose to be the correct balance weight for the crankshaft.

 

I am not sure what clutch was in it. The disc is unsprung, but the pressure plate looks like a stock valeo.

 

Several of us driving ZR-1s have switched to the Fidanza aluminum FW and a sprung hub combination friction disc (mine is from Centerforce), using the stock Veleo pressure plate.

I nor anyone in our Chicago group has complained about chatter, that I'm aware of. Inertial dyno tests show an effective increase of approx 15 hp on a 500 hp LT5 due to reduction of rotating mass. These results are recorded in 4th gear, and would likely be more in the lower gears, due to the higher rate of rotational acceleration.

This is one easy way to get a real, cheap 15+ hp (a little less for a stock 300 hp LT1). The purpose of the dual mass was to absorb crankshaft pulse variations that otherwise cause the gear box to rattle a little when idling in neutral. However, raising the idle to approx 800-850 rpm pretty much ends the rattle. If rattle remains, then the injectors become suspect (and have been found to be the problem in most cases).

I love my Fidanza.

RAM Clutch has a new dual disc clutch assembly that some of the big inch LT5 guys are using. A nice feature too is it uses a ring slave cylinder that fits over the nose shaft of the transmission that acts directly on the fingers of the (push-type) RAM pressure plate, i.e., no "fork" is used.

Check with RAM regarding LT1/L98 applications and pricing. For the ZR-1s the dual disc kit was approx $1250, a year ago, FWIW.

P.

 

I disagree. I had extremely bad chatter with my aluminum fidanza and d/f clutch from centerforce. I made a post on here about it and I searched google several times and there are TONS of posts about it.

From what I understand the holes for the removable friction plate cause chatter from the edges when the harder composit pucks on the disk make contact with the plate.

 

My good friend owns my first 95, we just put the same combo as Smooth in it, and chatters like a ****, but I put a Fidanza and a spec stage 3+ in my 94 and it has zero chatter. This has been a big concern for me lately, I'm fixing to drop the blue tag out of my 95 and replace it with a 92 black tag. I got to decide on a clutch real soon.

OP keep us posted on how things work out, I got a few F Body FW and that might be and option when I do my car.

 

The good news is, it does get better after a few miles. I am not real impressed with centerforce d/f tho. My clutch will slip under wot 3erd gear pulls or hot sticky tires in 2nd under wot.

 

If you run that spec flywheel with the stock clutch IE unsprung disc you have zero dampening. The solid disc are used with the DM flywheel because the DM is sprung. You definitely need a sprung hub with that set up.

 

You have a "True Transzilla" or just a T56? What ratios?

If he has the transmission he mentions the entire package is a "specialty" selection of pieces. The OP needs to do some research. In his original post he "hints" DMF but it's pretty obvious from his later comments that he actually didn't know. It's seems obvious that the OP didn't do the build. I would think that if someone went to the expense of a "True Transzilla" that it wouldn't have a "push style" clutch also. Not necessarily but likely!

 

I have zero chatter in mine, but maybe that's because it has a steel flywheel...

I've put over 40k HARD miles on it. Just pulled the trans to replace the clutch as it was starting to slip. Got a new CenterForce D/F setup on the way.

The ZF does sound a lot like an old Muncie M-22 Rockcrusher at idle sometimes...but it was expected. The choice of fluids inside the trans can make a huge difference. I use the Castrol synthetic...once I went to it the shifts are smooth and the clatter is almost gone.

 

Interesting...Yours is in definate contrast to experience of others. (Things that make you go "Hmmmm....." )

When you said "pucks" I realized you're using one of those extra special grippy discs. In contrast, the Centerforce 381039 disc I/we use is a flat, sprung hub type and it works with the stock Veleo pressure plate AND the Fidanza, apparently.

A word of caution tho, when it comes to break-in: 500 miles worth of normal driving is what was recommended if using or reusing the Veleo, due to the fact the PP is dished ever so slightly. If one hammers the new disc before it has a chance to take shape, the outer edges will be cooked and a new disc is the only fix (I'm told).

Never had a moments problem with the Fidanza/Centerforce 381039 (sprung hub) disc/Veleo combo. (And there's a bunch of 'em running around in FBI land running north of 500 hp.) However! When you mentioned "pucks", the ONLY chatter problem one of us was having was with a single mass steel FW (not a Fidanza) and one of those "puck" type discs. Now you have me wondering if the maybe it is your disc too that is at the root of the chattering??

I dunno - just making an observation. I do know his was a pain to drive around town, as I recall. The ultimate cure to smooth operation w/o slipping was a dual disc RAM clutch conversion. The kit was built by RAM with the input from some ZR-1 guys, and the comment was made that "...for under 600 hp, it would be the last clutch you'll ever buy."

Getting off track a bit, but maybe worth looking into; a dual disc, whether it is made by RAM or CENTERFORCE or whomever might be the solution for your big hp application.