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Have a 95 with a speaker/ amp issue. It seems to be only the pass rear unit and is intermittant. Produces a rapid "drumming" sound that remains constant, ie just as loud at barely on to full volume. Does not change with speed or if engine on or off. When not making this sound it still thumps like new. If it does not start at start up it has not as yet started while driving. Happens about 50% of the time. Connections seem ok. Ground issue? Amp?
Thoughts?
Have a 95 with a speaker/ amp issue. It seems to be only the pass rear unit and is intermittant. Produces a rapid "drumming" sound that remains constant, ie just as loud at barely on to full volume. Does not change with speed or if engine on or off. When not making this sound it still thumps like new. If it does not start at start up it has not as yet started while driving. Happens about 50% of the time. Connections seem ok. Ground issue? Amp?
Thoughts?
It's called "Motorboating" and it is caused by a couple of small electrolytic capacitors on the speaker amp that have dried out (there is a circuit board mounted on eache speaker enclosure). Seems like the culprits are c6 & c7 in the middle of the speaker amp board. I fixed my right rear last year and my left rear started the same crap last month.
I guess tonight after work would be a good time for me to pull mine out and fix it. That way I can come back and tell you the correct location and value.
Have a 95 with a speaker/ amp issue. It seems to be only the pass rear unit and is intermittant. Produces a rapid "drumming" sound that remains constant, ie just as loud at barely on to full volume. Does not change with speed or if engine on or off. When not making this sound it still thumps like new. If it does not start at start up it has not as yet started while driving. Happens about 50% of the time. Connections seem ok. Ground issue? Amp?
Thoughts?
Most likely it is amps (99% of the time). Both my rear speakers didn't work at all, pulled enclosures out, removed amps (they plug in) and sent to be repaired/updated. Removal is easy, see there video. You can send in whole amp/speaker but speakers themselves rarely go bad. You can send both amps as they "update" them. If you take both rears out plug the good one into the bad side to double check it is not something else. Take amp out of good one and plug into bad side.
They are 40¢ each at Radio Shack. A $5 roll of solder wick and a $4 soldering iron from WalMart and your amps will be as good as new. The first time I did this repair, I replaced every electrolytic cap on the board, one at a time. Replace one and test, replace one and test. There was no improvement until I went to remove C7 and the leads pulled right out of the can because the cap was dried out. C8 was the same. It is a quick job - quicker than a trip to the post office for sure.
They are 40¢ each at Radio Shack. A $5 roll of solder wick and a $4 soldering iron from WalMart and your amps will be as good as new. The first time I did this repair, I replaced every electrolytic cap on the board, one at a time. Replace one and test, replace one and test. There was no improvement until I went to remove C7 and the leads pulled right out of the can because the cap was dried out. C8 was the same. It is a quick job - quicker than a trip to the post office for sure.
If I had seen this 6 months ago I might have tried it but my only experience "soldering" was with a torch fixing frozen copper water lines in Northern WI!
All of this is good information. I am going to throw in my 2 cents on a thread I wrote on 06 on the repair of the speaker amps. A lot of detail and some of the best links you can find.
Too much to rewrite and more good information in the thread.
Its been a LONG time since I took electronics in HS [73-74] but I can prob manage the soldering if I know which ones are bad. I dont have any way to check the microfarad rating. But refresh my memory...will a bad cap have no continueity? How do you tell its bad?
Its been a LONG time since I took electronics in HS [73-74] but I can prob manage the soldering if I know which ones are bad. I dont have any way to check the microfarad rating. But refresh my memory...will a bad cap have no continueity? How do you tell its bad?
You will not do well trying to figure out what is bad with an ohm meter, they will all probably read some sort of charge rate. The 1 mfd might not read at all but so what, don't waste you time. Replaced all but two of them but there are only about 8 to do (clean sweep). The 2 big ones side by side are about 820 mfd and I have not seen them bad and are hard to get so leave them alone. The others are small value capacitors. Check it out but I think you need (some boards are different by 1 capacitor)
2 - 47, 1 - 4.7, 3 - 10, 2- 1 mfd for a start.
Try to get voltage ratings that are the same or slightly higher. If they are to high it won't hurt, but you will not be able to physically install them.
Get yourself a solder puller (sucker) from radio shack and you will do a better job and not mess up the board. Practice on using it before you take to the real board (got to be fast). Don’t do any solder bridges…careful. You will have to take some goop off the top of board carefully, you'll se.
Check page 11 from the first link, you can see the basic layout and values of the capacitors.
Its been a LONG time since I took electronics in HS [73-74] but I can prob manage the soldering if I know which ones are bad. I dont have any way to check the microfarad rating. But refresh my memory...will a bad cap have no continueity? How do you tell its bad?
So, thanks for the nudge to action! My left rear has been motorboating off and on for a couple of months and I hadn't bothered fixing it. When I saw your inital post I pulled my speaker out to get to positions and values of the two big offenders. Sunday, during the short rain delay for the Daytona 500 (6 1/2 hours), I dug around and found the extra caps from the first repair and fixed my amp. I spent more time getting the ^&*# carpet back in than I did replacing the capacitors.
As someone else mentioned, the caps and large inductors are stabilized with a liberal gob of hot melt glue or similar material. Use a knife or exacto and slice down through the goog between the caps and inductor coils but stop shy of the PWB - you don't want to risk cutting any traces, and don't knick the coating on the inductors. Use some needle nosed pliers to pull the potting out. In all likelihood the bad caps will pull off of their leads and come out with the potting because they are dried out. That is fine, it makes the desoldering job easier.
At any rate, BOTH back channels in my car now sound great, so again, thanks for getting me off the dime.
At any rate, BOTH back channels in my car now sound great, so again, thanks for getting me off the dime.
My system sounds great too. Over a period of time I have done all 4 amplifiers. No, I don’t have 500 watts nor do I need it in a car. Ripping a system like this out and installing another may not be a better sounding one. But if the original system has major problems it may be a financial decision and of course up the owner. I don’t want it to sound like a juke box with a 15" woofer.
One of the major weak links of components is coupling capacitor 172, 10mdf. When this cap is weak, it really muddies the frequency response and lowers the volume (power) of the output of the amp.
But my sound is clean and plenty loud enough for you are only couple feet from the speakers. The highs are crisp and the base is that nice thumpy sound.
My friend in my corvette club in his C5 has been trying to get his radio fixed by the dealer. But there is nothing wrong, it's just a different animal and different vintage radio. Mine sounds better, he likes his car but my radio better.