A/C blowing through defroster
05-27-2014, 02:43 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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A/C blowing through defroster
Hi everyone. New member. Let's see how this works. My A/C blows cold and hard. The only problem is it blows out the defroster for a full 2 minutes before blowing out the dash vent. I tried the easy stuff first, changing the vacuum lines and check valve, but no success. Any ideas? It's a 1993 corvette standard.
05-27-2014, 03:28 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Hi everyone. New member. Let's see how this works. My A/C blows cold and hard. The only problem is it blows out the defroster for a full 2 minutes before blowing out the dash vent. I tried the easy stuff first, changing the vacuum lines and check valve, but no success. Any ideas? It's a 1993 corvette standard.
05-27-2014, 04:11 PM
#3
Heel & Toe
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05-27-2014, 04:40 PM
#4
Race Director
I had to fix mine also. There was a post a couple of years ago that had a great write up and photos. I searched my old stuff but I couldn't find the name of the guy that posted it. Hope somebody else here can direct you to it.
The controller is about the size of a wallet and is up under the dash kind of above the brake pedal. That's what you need to remove and work on out of the car. I had to remove the driver seat and put a blanket on the floor so I could lay on my back with my feet on the cargo area. The little box has a vacuum plug on one corner that leads to a set of solenoids inside that redirect vacuum to different hoses on that plug. that plug has soft rubber tips that collapse or split and leak air so it doesn't get the vacuum to the air direct doors for heat & vents. I cut those rubber hoses off and glued in some tiny brass tubes I got from a hobby supply. You could also probably use pieces of plastic tubing that come on spray cans like brake cleaner. There isn't any air flow there, it only has to pull a little vacuum on a diaphram for each door to direct the air. When all vacuum is off or lost, the default position for the doors is defrost. If there is a leak, that's why it always starts out on defrost and takes so long for the air to finally come out of the dash, if it ever does.
The controller is about the size of a wallet and is up under the dash kind of above the brake pedal. That's what you need to remove and work on out of the car. I had to remove the driver seat and put a blanket on the floor so I could lay on my back with my feet on the cargo area. The little box has a vacuum plug on one corner that leads to a set of solenoids inside that redirect vacuum to different hoses on that plug. that plug has soft rubber tips that collapse or split and leak air so it doesn't get the vacuum to the air direct doors for heat & vents. I cut those rubber hoses off and glued in some tiny brass tubes I got from a hobby supply. You could also probably use pieces of plastic tubing that come on spray cans like brake cleaner. There isn't any air flow there, it only has to pull a little vacuum on a diaphram for each door to direct the air. When all vacuum is off or lost, the default position for the doors is defrost. If there is a leak, that's why it always starts out on defrost and takes so long for the air to finally come out of the dash, if it ever does.
05-27-2014, 04:53 PM
#5
Heel & Toe
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A/C vent problem
I had to fix mine also. There was a post a couple of years ago that had a great write up and photos. I searched my old stuff but I couldn't find the name of the guy that posted it. Hope somebody else here can direct you to it.
The controller is about the size of a wallet and is up under the dash kind of above the brake pedal. That's what you need to remove and work on out of the car. I had to remove the driver seat and put a blanket on the floor so I could lay on my back with my feet on the cargo area. The little box has a vacuum plug on one corner that leads to a set of solenoids inside that redirect vacuum to different hoses on that plug. that plug has soft rubber tips that collapse or split and leak air so it doesn't get the vacuum to the air direct doors for heat & vents. I cut those rubber hoses off and glued in some tiny brass tubes I got from a hobby supply. You could also probably use pieces of plastic tubing that come on spray cans like brake cleaner. There isn't any air flow there, it only has to pull a little vacuum on a diaphram for each door to direct the air. When all vacuum is off or lost, the default position for the doors is defrost. If there is a leak, that's why it always starts out on defrost and takes so long for the air to finally come out of the dash, if it ever does.
The controller is about the size of a wallet and is up under the dash kind of above the brake pedal. That's what you need to remove and work on out of the car. I had to remove the driver seat and put a blanket on the floor so I could lay on my back with my feet on the cargo area. The little box has a vacuum plug on one corner that leads to a set of solenoids inside that redirect vacuum to different hoses on that plug. that plug has soft rubber tips that collapse or split and leak air so it doesn't get the vacuum to the air direct doors for heat & vents. I cut those rubber hoses off and glued in some tiny brass tubes I got from a hobby supply. You could also probably use pieces of plastic tubing that come on spray cans like brake cleaner. There isn't any air flow there, it only has to pull a little vacuum on a diaphram for each door to direct the air. When all vacuum is off or lost, the default position for the doors is defrost. If there is a leak, that's why it always starts out on defrost and takes so long for the air to finally come out of the dash, if it ever does.
Thanks again.