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Replaced mine about 6 months ago (AC Delco - brand spanking new) and then two months later it was fried and needed to replace it again....its been running fine since then on my 92!
The alternator on my '90 just started to get a little noisey under load. I,m having it replaced next week before it causes problems or leaves me sitting. Vette has 22,200 miles. Just bought car last month so I don't know if the alternator has been replaced but it looks original.
I'm on my 4th on the C4. I bought the car used (~30K miles) and the dufus who had it before me took the brace (in the back) off causing the housing to crack....and stupid me, I killed another one before I figured this out. Once the brace was back on, the 3rd alt. gave me about 100K miles before it gave up so I figure I've got about 50K left on the current one.
I'm on my 4th on the C4. I bought the car used (~30K miles) and the dufus who had it before me took the brace (in the back) off causing the housing to crack....and stupid me, I killed another one before I figured this out. Once the brace was back on, the 3rd alt. gave me about 100K miles before it gave up so I figure I've got about 50K left on the current one.
Well, I have the CS-144 Alt. now. I will see how long it lasts..
I like seeing the guys who buy a 150 dollar alt and put in 35 dollar kragens batteries in.The best way to kill an alt is to have it running constantly, because the batt is not holding a charge or has no cappacity. :crazy:
The '84 and '85 were running on the ragged edge as far as the alternator goes. It was the last of the SI series, and they had to use a huge (by SI standards) 120 amp unit. It was very unreliable. I rebuilt mine twice before I finally upgraded to a CS130, like the factory did in '86. It has been great. No problems so far. The CS runs cooler, is smaller, and puts out more amps at idle than the SI, even the big 120 amp monster!
If anyone is interested in specific part numbers for the CS alternator and the required adaptor for '84 or '85 vettes, just drop me an email. :D
I have heard it is much better to go to an alternator shop and have your alternator rebuilt than just putting in another alternator. Especially if you go the rebuilt alternator type. I am still on my original alternator ( Knock on Wood ) but if mine goes out I think I will just have mine rebuilt or rebuild it myself.
I like seeing the guys who buy a 150 dollar alt and put in 35 dollar kragens batteries in.The best way to kill an alt is to have it running constantly, because the batt is not holding a charge or has no cappacity. :crazy:
Well I replaced the Battery with a Sear Die Hard gold (brand new) at the same time. The CS-130 is only rated at 105a.. the CS-144 is 140a. I am going to stick with the bigger alt.. much better design over the CS-130
I might still have the original alternator if I would have cleaned my radiator area before it got hot out. I cooked that puppy along with other parts last year.
Earlier I noticed that (during hot weather and sitting in the red lights) charge drops to 8-10V and if I let it be stay there for too long the alt will overheat and selfdestruct.
This summer I was wiser and have been keeping an eye on the dash and not letting the charge drop too low. I can do this by reducing heater or AC motor speed, lights etc. I have learned that i can keep the AC speed at setting 4 or 5 (depends of ambient temperature) and the alt can manage just fine but if it is set to anything more when ouside temp is over 90F the charge starts to drop and I need to take action.
BTW, if your alt blows because of heat, don't just replace it with one that has higher AMP rating. This is no solution, they produce even more heat but last no better than the same alt with lesser rating. CS-130 is crap even if it was upgraded to 140A. The only good solution here is to upgrade to different type of alternator, like CS-144 somebody mentioned, or maybe the type used in ZR-1's. My point: AMPs are not the problem but the design itself which overheats and lacks sufficient cooling fins and holes to cool down the vulnerable parts (bearings, rectifier etc).
haven't really replaced mine, but in 1997 i replaced a bad voltage regulator, thru in a new set of brushes, and reconditioned the case halves. this spring, i replaced the front bearing (and while i was at it, i also replaced the rear bearing)