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VATS issue

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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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Default VATS issue

Since I bought this Ruby in April, this is the first time it has given me the VATS issue. When I try and start the car, the security light stays lit. I give it 5 minutes before I try and start it. One try, I gave it 10 minutes. And none of that works. Luckily, it's at home. Any ideas on what I could do to get it to start?
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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Read your Key's resister value with a Ohm meter.
Then unplug the orange lead under the dash, put the Ohm meter on the orange lead from your ignition. Did you get the same value?
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
Read your Key's resister value with a Ohm meter.
Then unplug the orange lead under the dash, put the Ohm meter on the orange lead from your ignition. Did you get the same value?
I'll have to ask my dad to let me use his ohm meter. Don't have one with me. Thanks for the reply
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 12:44 AM
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Dumb question, how would I ohm the orange wire? The key is simple enough to ohm.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:35 AM
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The purpose of checking the resistance at the bottom of the steering column on the connector is to prove that the ignition key cylinder contacts and the wires are good. Most VATS problems are caused in this area. I had a bent contact in my ignition key cylinder and I have heard of cases where the tiny white wires have broken. They get flexed every time the ignition cylinder is turned.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 06:53 AM
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You can also get a VATs bypass through places like Ecklers, in effect a dongle with a built-in resistor so it has to match the value on the key. Just unplug that connection from the steering column and plug it into the wiring going to the VATs module. It in effect provides the resistance to the unit from the module instead of the key. If it's in the column, that should prove that's the problem or not as the case may be.
Nice thing is you don't cut any wiring so it's plug and play to use and reversible if desired.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 08:51 AM
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you simply insert your Meter leads in both of the terminals on the orange lead. This closes the loop. Just like reading your key.
A very cost effective Bypass. In the event the ignition wires are shorted or broken. You can purchase a 50 cent resister with the same key value. Close the loop at the other end of the orange lead.

Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Dec 23, 2014 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:16 PM
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Is this the orange wire you are talking about? Sorry, couldn't get really good pics.


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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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Define "start". Does it turn over at all and not ignite or what?

If it doesn't turn over, check backwards. Start at the starter. See if it gets the start signal.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:33 PM
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Security light stays on(doesn't flash) when I try to start it. Isn't that the usual VATS sign?
My dad is on the way with the ohm meter. What if they ohm at the same numbers?
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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Not sure since I have a 91 but IIRC, with my 91 Firebird also, when you block off the resistor pellet it will crank but no fuel injector pulse.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:39 PM
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I'm about to ohm them now
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
I'm about to ohm them now
Turn the key to ACC & Off a few times, while reading the orange lead value.
If the value does not change. Your key resistor & ignition leads are good.

I would also check the keys resistor, is it contacting both sides of the ignition lock all the time. The Ohm test you are currently checking. Will determine.

Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Dec 23, 2014 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral

Turn the key to ACC & Off a few times, while reading the orange lead value.
If the value does not change. Your key resistor & ignition leads are good.
So if they are good, where do I go from there?
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
So if they are good, where do I go from there?
1st what are your results.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Ohm meter is acting up.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
Ohm meter is acting up.
Just like a commercial to break a TV show.
Are you sure the meter is bad?
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 04:31 PM
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Just as I was going to ohm the orange lead connector, when I turned it on(set to 20k), it was 6.something Oh well, I'll get to it later.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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Quick question, is the fuel pump supposed to turn on if VATS is interfering?
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
Quick question, is the fuel pump supposed to turn on if VATS is interfering?
Fuel pump is not affected by VAT's.

Take a piece of wire and short pin A to pin G on the diag. connector.
Turn the ignition On



Look at the LCD

Verify if any trouble codes are set.

Module 1 is CCM
Module 4 is the ECM

After the numbers stop. 1.0 should be displayed.

Press Trip ODO until 1.2 is displayed.
Press Eng/Met until 06 xxx is displayed

Note the value of xxx

There are 15 possible numbers. (15 different key pellet values).
If the xxx does not match any of the numbers below the key pellet is not being read properly and is why the Security light is staying on.
Try a different key if you have one and see what the results are.

33-38 Key code 1
42-47 key code 2
52-58 key code 3
64-70 key code 4
76-83 key code 5
91-98 key code 6
106-113 key code 7
121-128 key code 8
]136-143 key code 9
149-156 key code 10
164-170 key code 11
177-183 key code 12
188-194 key code 13
199-204 key code 14
208-213 key code 15

Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Dec 23, 2014 at 08:47 PM.
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