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Well, just to wrap this one up. Got a door switch, installed and door lights came on, boot switched worked, all was good. Gently closed the door and the lights wouldn't go out. Tried multiple times, left it closed for a bit etc. Lights stayed on. Tried to adjust the pin, no joy. Ended up pulling the whole thing out again so I could get the interior lights out. Guess I did something wrong or the part was a dud? Anyway, no plans to order another in the near future US$30 to ship a matchbox size part that takes a month to arrive was hard enough to swallow once.
How long did you hold the button in? Mine takes like 15 to 20 seconds before the lights go out.
Oh really, I don't know if I left it that long. My passenger side still works and they go out straight away. Driver's side busted since I bought it so I have nothing to compare to for that side.
Replacing the boot around the fuel filler but that's a 5 minute job. I have noticed that the headlight motor still churns and clicks even once the lights have retracted fully. No doubt this is the prelude to those breaking so I am guessing that's the next big one.
Have just had the optispark and waterpump replaced by the dealer (they paid) so that's at least one I don't have to worry about for a while.
I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?
You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.
If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.
Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".
At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.
If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.
That’s exactly what my 1990 door switch looks like. I found the part, fished the wires out of the door with needle nose pliers made the connection but I could not get it to attach to the door so I ended up at dealership and they had done it a few minutes.
Replacing the boot around the fuel filler but that's a 5 minute job. I have noticed that the headlight motor still churns and clicks even once the lights have retracted fully. No doubt this is the prelude to those breaking so I am guessing that's the next big one.
Have just had the optispark and waterpump replaced by the dealer (they paid) so that's at least one I don't have to worry about for a while.
Good news on the headlights about six bucks of pucks. Look on youtube for the video.
Whilst I enjoy the rhymes I assume you mean the motor gear and bushings?
Yes mine just needed the bushings (pucks) from what I have seen it is over 90 percent of them are fixed with them. If you do get the gear I would stick with the nylon.
Yes mine just needed the bushings (pucks) from what I have seen it is over 90 percent of them are fixed with them. If you do get the gear I would stick with the nylon.
Thanks, I am going to order the nylon gears at the same time. From what I have seen on YouTube the whole headlight assembly needs to come out either way so I may as well do the whole job. I would hate to just have the pucks then find I have to wait 2 weeks for gears because they are shot too.
Thanks, I am going to order the nylon gears at the same time. From what I have seen on YouTube the whole headlight assembly needs to come out either way so I may as well do the whole job. I would hate to just have the pucks then find I have to wait 2 weeks for gears because they are shot too.