Door switch issue?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 153
From: Gilbert AZ
2018 C1 of Year Finalis4
Wow, that's different. Has wrong hardware so they most likely screwed right into the door. I think the stock hardware was a M4.2 screw but I can't find a GM door drawing which shows the hardware.
Last edited by ColaBear; Mar 19, 2016 at 12:10 AM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 19
From: Tampa FL
There should be a metal backing plate inside the door. The switch goes through the door and through the backing plate. And the screws go through the switch, the door and screw into the backing plate. If it's missing, you might be able to make one by making a copy of the passenger side.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
An original '94 ajar would have been mounted like this
I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?
You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.
If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.
Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".
At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.
If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.
I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?
You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.
If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.
Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".
At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.
If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 19, 2016 at 08:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
An original '94 ajar would have been mounted like this
Attachment 47964643
I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?
You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.
If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.
Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".
At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.
If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.
Attachment 47964643
I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?
You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.
If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.
Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".
At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.
If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.
I finally got around to pulling the existing door switch off and by fishing around with some needle nose pliers I found a connection, can you please confirm if this is the original GM one? The switch that was installed isn't connected to anything and doesn't fit this connection. I'm hoping the photo shows the connection to the original GM harness and I can just order a new switch. I might have to bugger about with the mounting though as it looks like a few things have been bodged in an attempt to replace with non standard.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 47
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Well a bit of good news then. I guess there is nothing else for it but to get a new switch and see what happens. I guess as long as the harness isn't damaged then I will be back I in business.
As an aside, my first time on this forum and I am really grateful for so much help from everyone, advice, diagrams etc. Brilliant. Thanks again.
As an aside, my first time on this forum and I am really grateful for so much help from everyone, advice, diagrams etc. Brilliant. Thanks again.
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Thread Starter
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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It might be interesting to have a snapshot of the opening in the door. It appears that it's been really whacked. There's several potential options for a repair. It would depend on the cosmetic appearance desired, functional or as was originally.
Seems you've got it under control.
Thread Starter
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I have a very old magnet with a bendable stem/handle that works real well for "fishing", you only need to confirm the wire colors which I posted previously match.
It might be interesting to have a snapshot of the opening in the door. It appears that it's been really whacked. There's several potential options for a repair. It would depend on the cosmetic appearance desired, functional or as was originally.
Seems you've got it under control.
It might be interesting to have a snapshot of the opening in the door. It appears that it's been really whacked. There's several potential options for a repair. It would depend on the cosmetic appearance desired, functional or as was originally.
Seems you've got it under control.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
Yes I would love some repair advice with strength and durability being priority. The damage consists of the section where the bottom screw hole goes has been pushed in and broken off. The top screw is fine but comparing to the passenger side it would appear the hole has been made a little larger. I was going to wait for the new switch to arrive and see what I have to work with but any advice would be greatfully received. Thanks.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Hi, Have attached a couple of photos of what I have to work with. So far as a repair goes I want something that will last above all else and preferably something I can do at home myself.
Thanks again everyone for your help.
Thanks again everyone for your help.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
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Looks like with the switch and the backup plate it will work but will not be pretty and will cover up alot of it. They have special stuff for the repair if you want to mess with it.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Mar 25, 2016 at 05:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
They have special stuff for the repair if you want to mess with it.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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I wouldn't be concerned until you've the reinforcement fabricated, the new switch and have it temporarily mounted.
How long and from where do you need to source the switch? Have you ordered yet?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 25, 2016 at 07:51 PM.
Thread Starter
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I have ordered the switch but it has to come from the USA. Will be at least a week I suspect. Regarding the backing plate, I have had to go out and grab a flexible magnetic pick up tool so haven't fished it out yet. I hope it is in there as I imagine replacements are hard to find?
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
I have ordered the switch but it has to come from the USA. Will be at least a week I suspect. Regarding the backing plate, I have had to go out and grab a flexible magnetic pick up tool so haven't fished it out yet. I hope it is in there as I imagine replacements are hard to find?
Thanks
Thanks