Hoping they didn't screw up the door so he can still return it to stock.

 

Ok, car is back. These are actual pictures

 

Wow, that's different. Has wrong hardware so they most likely screwed right into the door. I think the stock hardware was a M4.2 screw but I can't find a GM door drawing which shows the hardware.

 

There should be a metal backing plate inside the door. The switch goes through the door and through the backing plate. And the screws go through the switch, the door and screw into the backing plate. If it's missing, you might be able to make one by making a copy of the passenger side.

 

An original '94 ajar would have been mounted like this



I would loosen your switch and when you pull it from the door see if maybe the wire that comes with the switch (if still attached) is a 2 wire but likely cut off/modified in some fashion to attempt the generic replacement. It could simply require a cut splice of correct connector and the use of an original switch. Regardless of your location the connector should be an easy find. Did you receive the replacement original type switch yet?

You mention "BOOT", is this car a convertible? I don't want to provide you incorrect information.

If you've issues I can likely provide you a wiring diagram or I can sell you an electronic .pdf of the complete FSM and we could do it through "drop-box" likely because of your location.

Send me an email using the email link by clicking on my "user ID".

At this point I would NOT attempt to remove the door trim panel. See what's actually there 1st. It may be tempting - just resist the temptation.

If 2 wires come through with the switch I'd expect a GRY/BLK and a BLK/WHT for the drivers door.

 

Hi,
I finally got around to pulling the existing door switch off and by fishing around with some needle nose pliers I found a connection, can you please confirm if this is the original GM one? The switch that was installed isn't connected to anything and doesn't fit this connection. I'm hoping the photo shows the connection to the original GM harness and I can just order a new switch. I might have to bugger about with the mounting though as it looks like a few things have been bodged in an attempt to replace with non standard.

 

Looks like it!!!!!!!

 

Well a bit of good news then. I guess there is nothing else for it but to get a new switch and see what happens. I guess as long as the harness isn't damaged then I will be back I in business.

As an aside, my first time on this forum and I am really grateful for so much help from everyone, advice, diagrams etc. Brilliant. Thanks again.

 

Drop a magnet down there I bet the backup plate is rattling around in the door.

 

There is something rattling in the door since you mention it. I will give that a try

 

I have a very old magnet with a bendable stem/handle that works real well for "fishing", you only need to confirm the wire colors which I posted previously match.

It might be interesting to have a snapshot of the opening in the door. It appears that it's been really whacked. There's several potential options for a repair. It would depend on the cosmetic appearance desired, functional or as was originally.

Seems you've got it under control.

 

Yes I would love some repair advice with strength and durability being priority. The damage consists of the section where the bottom screw hole goes has been pushed in and broken off. The top screw is fine but comparing to the passenger side it would appear the hole has been made a little larger. I was going to wait for the new switch to arrive and see what I have to work with but any advice would be greatfully received. Thanks.

 

Tie a string/fine wire to the harness/connector in the door and secure it to the screw hole that is present. Take a snapshot then of the opening and post it. While waiting for the switch take one of the screws from the passenger switch and match it for new in the drivers.

 

Hi, Have attached a couple of photos of what I have to work with. So far as a repair goes I want something that will last above all else and preferably something I can do at home myself.
Thanks again everyone for your help.

 

Looks like with the switch and the backup plate it will work but will not be pretty and will cover up alot of it. They have special stuff for the repair if you want to mess with it.

 

Not after pretty at this stage, just want it to work

 

What kind of special stuff, fibreglass repair kit or some kind of filler? If it doesn't look too bad I'll probably leave it alone but would be good to know in case it needs a patch.
Thanks

 

Have you snagged the retaining plate from the door yet? That will be so to speak a "pattern". Fabricate a very substantial five sided reinforcement that is larger than the broken out panel (the larger you can fit in there the better), it looks like you can get a very large reinforcement in there. Sandwich that reinforcement between the retainer and the inside of the panel, bore the hole required for the switch and mount the switch using correct hardware. After you accomplish that it would be much easier to determine what's going to be required to "pretty it up".

I wouldn't be concerned until you've the reinforcement fabricated, the new switch and have it temporarily mounted.

How long and from where do you need to source the switch? Have you ordered yet?

 

I have ordered the switch but it has to come from the USA. Will be at least a week I suspect. Regarding the backing plate, I have had to go out and grab a flexible magnetic pick up tool so haven't fished it out yet. I hope it is in there as I imagine replacements are hard to find?
Thanks

 

A piece of stiff wire or evan a string with a magnet might work and the door pad is not that hard to remove.