When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Any suggestions on replacing my exsisting Bose System, how difficult is it to do? which brand is most affordable? can I use the exsisting speaker wires? I need all the help your willing to give
thank you
jim
That you are a male residing in the US doesn't help. Year and if it if it is a coupe might help more. Even better is if you fill out the profile so someone in your neck of the woods might be able to loan you a tool or help you. Don't worry, the last body snatchers are gone.
If you are a 91 coupe and not ZR1 like mine is, I would say go buy the rear speaker enclosures for NON-Bose. Go to Crutchfield to see what will fit into a non-Bose system for speakers and what you need for head unit.
Run wires from the head unit to the rear with a foot extra length. Put the speakers in and wire that sucker up.
The bose system doesn't use speaker wires; each speaker has it's own powered amp, so the wires going to each speaker are power, ground, and two "line level" wires....like the RCA cables on your home components or aftermarket car audio amps.
You can reuse the Bose speakers Amps w/an aftermarket head, if you spice RCA cables into the Bose amps.
Or you can gut the whole system and install any aftermarket system of your choice. What's most affordable? IDK....some "system" from Walmart? Autozone? What MOST affordable is a system pieced together from your local classifieds. I put an entire system together for my boat (Alpine HU, JL sub, Eclipse amp, Pioneer 6x9's in boxes and an Alpine 6 disk changer) for a grand total of $90 and the thing rips.
Lay wire first. That is a simple enough job some other guy at Best Buy can do for you. Let him wreck his body contorting around while you are watching. The rest is fine work you do yourself
The bose system doesn't use speaker wires; each speaker has it's own powered amp, so the wires going to each speaker are power, ground, and two "line level" wires....like the RCA cables on your home components or aftermarket car audio amps.
You can reuse the Bose speakers Amps w/an aftermarket head, if you spice RCA cables into the Bose amps.
Or you can gut the whole system and install any aftermarket system of your choice. What's most affordable? IDK....some "system" from Walmart? Autozone? What MOST affordable is a system pieced together from your local classifieds. I put an entire system together for my boat (Alpine HU, JL sub, Eclipse amp, Pioneer 6x9's in boxes and an Alpine 6 disk changer) for a grand total of $90 and the thing rips.
Lay wire first. That is a simple enough job some other guy at Best Buy can do for you. Let him wreck his body contorting around while you are watching. The rest is fine work you do yourself
I had to replace a front Bose speaker amp out one day. My body hurt like hell for two day's after. Wait till you get on Medicare, if ya make it that far.
I replaced mine and never tackled a project like that before. I recommend Crutchfield as your source. They provided me with everything I needed. Bose bypass harness from them made it almost plug&play. I installed new speakers and ran new speaker wire. I wasn't about to use 30yo parts in my new system.
Thanks guys for your info, question?
can I use the exsisting speaker wires that go with the Bose system or do I have to go ahead and got everything does anybody have the wire diagrams so I know which ones power and so on it's a 1988 C4 thank you guys
one more thing I did take the back passenger side speaker out I have one hell of a time getting that out but I got it so it looks like a 6 by 9 speaker will fit right in that in area is this true
UOTE=rgauchey;1597881236]I replaced mine and never tackled a project like that before. I recommend Crutchfield as your source. They provided me with everything I needed. Bose bypass harness from them made it almost plug&play. I installed new speakers and ran new speaker wire. I wasn't about to use 30yo parts in my new system.[/QUOTE]
Last edited by James Grant; Aug 28, 2018 at 07:56 PM.
I had to replace a front Bose speaker amp out one day.
My body hurt like hell for two day's after.
Wait till you get on Medicare, if ya make it that far.
I am not sure. The back was easy enough. A couple screws to take it out. I think mine were in the kick panel. I believe earlier models were in the door? Not sure.
Maybe you can hire out that part and watch them? IIRC, Best Buy didn't care I watched.
And you wonder why I consider a long life a curse.
I replaced mine and never tackled a project like that before. I recommend Crutchfield as your source. They provided me with everything I needed. Bose bypass harness from them made it almost plug&play. I installed new speakers and ran new speaker wire. I wasn't about to use 30yo parts in my new system.
Why does it need a bypass harness if you are running new speakers and wires? Were you replacing the head unit or keeping it?
Don't know why you'd pay for a "bypass harness". All you need for a new system is:
Batt power
Keyed power
Ground. Everything else (line wires, amp power, speaker wires etc)...you're running new/custom. Don't need any harnesses for that...or any bypasses either.
Originally Posted by James Grant
can I use the exsisting speaker wires that go with the Bose system or do I have to go ahead and gut everything
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
The bose system doesn't use speaker wires; each speaker has it's own powered amp, so the wires going to each speaker are power, ground, and two "line level" wires....like the RCA cables on your home components or aftermarket car audio amps.
If you're not keeping the Bose speakers, you need to gut (or at least replace) everything.
Originally Posted by James Grant
does anybody have the wire diagrams so I know which ones power and so on it's a 1988 C4 thank you guys
Front right speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level common "-"
Front left speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level common "-"
Rear right speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level common "-"
Rear left speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level common "-"
Originally Posted by James Grant
one more thing I did take the back passenger side speaker out I have one hell of a time getting that out but I got it so it looks like a 6 by 9 speaker will fit right in that in area is this true
True. 6x9's fit. That's what I have in mine.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Aug 28, 2018 at 10:33 PM.
Using the factory wire is possible. I used a non Bose radio from a Camaro of same vintage to keep the factory look. Used 4" speakers mounted in the Bose enclosures. I followed information in this old thread https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ry-wiring.html
Why does it need a bypass harness if you are running new speakers and wires? Were you replacing the head unit or keeping it?
Because the cars wiring goes to the bose receiver not the head unit. You want to bypass the bose receiver and run the wires direct to the new head unit your installing. The bypass harness plugs right into the wire harness that used to plug into the bose. Then runs the needed wires to your head unit. (ignition on, antenna, dimmer etc.)
I am not sure. The back was easy enough. A couple screws to take it out. I think mine were in the kick panel. I believe earlier models were in the door? Not sure.
Maybe you can hire out that part and watch them? IIRC, Best Buy didn't care I watched.
And you wonder why I consider a long life a curse.
James Grant. I used the original speaker wiring while replacing the Bose in my 88 with a JVC unit. 4 inch speakers (by passing the amps) in the doors with a little Dremel help and 6x9's in the rear (someone on the Forum made some very nice 6x9 speaker enclosures). I used the bland Bose speaker covers making sure I bought low profile speakers. I did this 5 years ago and my memory is fuzzy and the Electrical FSM never really shows that the speaker wires at the Bose junction near the speakers, the colored wired wires that Tom400CFI describes change to a stripped wire that are different colors. I used those stripped wires for the speakers. No need for the black/pink/and I think brown at the Bose pig tale. You need the Electrical FSM to pull this off.
Bought my stuff at carstereosonline.com.
Last edited by HAD2HAV2; Aug 29, 2018 at 08:46 PM.
Because the cars wiring goes to the bose receiver not the head unit. You want to bypass the bose receiver and run the wires direct to the new head unit your installing. The bypass harness plugs right into the wire harness that used to plug into the bose. Then runs the needed wires to your head unit. (ignition on, antenna, dimmer etc.)
Not in an 88. There is no Bose receiver in it. Well, not a separate one anyway.
Replacing the Bose System
Don't know why you'd pay for a "bypass harness". All you need for a new system is:
