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Don't know why you'd pay for a "bypass harness". All you need for a new system is:
Batt power
Keyed power
Ground. Everything else (line wires, amp power, speaker wires etc)...you're running new/custom. Don't need any harnesses for that...or any bypasses either.
If you're not keeping the Bose speakers, you need to gut (or at least replace) everything.
Front right speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level common "-"
Front left speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level common "-"
Rear right speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level common "-"
Rear left speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level common "-"
.
I don't believe this is correct for 88. This is how it's wired:
Pink = Amp Relay +
Pink = Power Antenna +
(Note, of the two pink wires, one is in the standard radio harness connector, and one is hardwired to the stereo and run outside the case to a separate connector, not sure which one is which)
Orange = +Hot all times
Brown = + Lights
Black = - Ground
Gray = + Dash lights dimmer circuit
Gray/White = (Electronic AC only) To AC control panel dimmer circuit
Front right speaker Clear = Shield for Line Level wires
Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level common "-"
Front left speaker Clear = Shield for Line Level wires
Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level common "-"
Rear right speaker Clear = Shield for Line Level wires
Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level common "-"
Rear left speaker Clear = Shield for Line Level wires
Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level common "-"
This is all at the radio end. From the the Amp relay there is a pink/black wire that goes to the door bose amps, and to the C308 junction block which then has a pink to the rear bose amps.
Add to that the shielded line level speaker wires are 18 gauge, therefore on an 88 it is absolutely possible to use the existing wires to carry sound to new speakers.
Mitchell is wrong, is it? It' wouldn't be the first time....but maybe you can point out where it's "wrong" or different from the FSM pics that you posted? Thanks.
Mitchell is wrong, is it? It' wouldn't be the first time....but maybe you can point out where it's "wrong" or different from the FSM pics that you posted? Thanks.
A minor issue, it doesn't have the connection to the electronic AC on it. Other than that it's correct as far as I can see. You wrote in your earlier reply to me that wire colors and what they connect to came "straight out of Mitchell....for an '88". I assumed this statement to be fact as I'd never seen it before which is why I wrote that the Mitchell diagram was wrong. It looks like the Mitchell diagram is correct so I admit I'm wrong stating that. The point is what you wrote indicating colors and their connections is plain wrong no matter where you got it from.
I think that you better get used saying that....and you might want to brush up on your reading skills with wiring diagrams
Originally Posted by gpierce
The point is what you wrote indicating colors and their connections is plain wrong no matter where you got it from.
Really. How sure are you about that? Let's have a little closer look....shall we? Let's zoom in a bit and examine this using our eyeballs....
Now here is what I said. Reading what I wrote....and then using your eyeballs to look at each amp/speaker assy....please point out where my info was "plain wrong no matter where I got it from" -you know....so I can fix it. Would you do that for me please? Thanks. Here is the text...again.
Front right speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level common "-"
...I don't know man. When I look at the thing called, "RIGHT DOOR AMPLIFIER/SPEAKER UNIT", I don't know what your eyeballs see, but MY eyeballs are seeing a box with ^those colored wires going to it. Shall we continue? I think that we should....
Front left speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level common "-"
....Check. And I don't think I'm color blind. Let's keep going....shall we?
Rear right speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level common "-"
Rear left speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level common "-"
Check and check. And just so we're clear....MY schematic is just like your schematic...right? Yes it is.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Aug 31, 2018 at 01:29 AM.
I know this is probably not the direction you are looking to go, but I just took the amps out of my 89 and sent them in to Bob Randall at Factory Car Stereo Repair, Inc. $80 each gets you completely refurbished amps, with a lifetime warranty. Put the amps back in and the system's as good as new. It's a 1989 system...but it's good as new.
I think that you better get used saying that....and you might want to brush up on your reading skills with wiring diagrams
Really. How sure are you about that? Let's have a little closer look....shall we? Let's zoom in a bit and examine this using our eyeballs....
Now here is what I said. Reading what I wrote....and then using your eyeballs to look at each amp/speaker assy....please point out where my info was "plain wrong no matter where I got it from" -you know....so I can fix it. Would you do that for me please? Thanks. Here is the text...again.
Front right speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level common "-"
...I don't know man. When I look at the thing called, "RIGHT DOOR AMPLIFIER/SPEAKER UNIT", I don't know what your eyeballs see, but MY eyeballs are seeing a box with ^those colored wires going to it. Shall we continue? I think that we should....
Front left speaker Pink/Blk = Amp +
Front left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level common "-"
....Check. And I don't think I'm color blind. Let's keep going....shall we?
Rear right speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear right speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level common "-"
Rear left speaker Pink = Amp +
Rear left speaker Black = Amp Ground
Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level common "-"
Check and check. And just so we're clear....MY schematic is just like your schematic...right? Yes it is.
.
You're wrong because you are ommitting important details. Like the fact that at the radio end the sheild wire is terminated there, and there is no pink/black wire. You are also misleading the way you wrote out the connections that there are 4 pink wires at the radio end the way you wrote that. Most people are going to start at the radio end looking for all the wires you've listed and aren't going to find them. I'm used to admitting when I'm wrong already that's what us grown ups do. I'm not yet used to how perfect you are so feel free to try and remind me some more.
I can't thank you all enough for the responses I went to a local stereo shop here audio shop they want $800 to put in the new system so I think I'm going to pass on that and I'm going to go ahead and take all the Bose system out and if anybody could explain to me how to run the wires to the back and into the door panels I greatly appreciate that cuz it looks like I'm going to be putting my own stereo in it thanks everybody again
I can't thank you all enough for the responses I went to a local stereo shop here audio shop they want $800 to put in the new system so I think I'm going to pass on that and I'm going to go ahead and take all the Bose system out and if anybody could explain to me how to run the wires to the back and into the door panels I greatly appreciate that cuz it looks like I'm going to be putting my own stereo in it thanks everybody again
Hello. I've asked questions similar to this before, but perhaps not as clearly. My goal is to replace the Bose system in my 1984 with a more modern non-bose system. Radio, and speakers both. My system doesn't work, and all components are 30+ yrs old so need replacement in any case.
I'm not after anything exotic, just a solid, cosmetically stock looking install that plays well. I will use the Retro Sound Newport (non-bose version) receiver, as its direct fit 1.5 Din, looks close to stock, and has upgraded features such as blue tooth and a usb port. Simple enough.
I will also replace door and rear speakers with traditional 2 or 3-way non bose speakers. My questions are:
(1) Does anyone have experience with this type of conversion and what is your advice?
(2) What size speakers will fit into the door and rear deck area with minor mods to the bose speaker mounts? I put 6 1/2" speakers in the doors, but I had to make a mounting plate and trim the stock opening about 1/2" to clear them. I also had to push the stock grills out 1/2" to clear the tweeters. The rears were a drop in affair in the cubbies behind the seats, but your coupe may be different.
(3) What advice on receiver/car wiring changes to accept the non bose unit in the dash board to power the unit and operate the power antenna? You can only reuse the stock
power/ground/memory/power antenna wires, so any GM adapter for that era will work.
(4) Will I need to run all new speaker wire, or can I use the existing wires between the bose receiver and the speaker locations for the purpose of speaker wires? Some here will say differently, but you should run new speaker wires. The stock wiring was designed to only carry a low power signal to the Bose amps. Use a electrical snake or coat hanger to get the new wires from the doors to the dash, starting on the door side first. I ran the wires for the rear speakers under the console, a coupe might be different.
Thanks for any info provided.
I did this swap in my 89 Vert, but most of the info should apply to you as well. See my answers in red above. Good luck, any more questions feel free to ask.
This is a paste from an old thread, but it should answer some of your questions.
Last edited by Patsgarage; Aug 31, 2018 at 08:15 PM.
I ran my RCA cables over the trans tunnel, along the rear wall (behind the seat) over to one side and then up and over the rear "fender" under the carpet to the rear wall (ahead of the gas tank, below the hatch latch) where my amps are mounted. The carpet is super easy to remove/pull back on the C4 so running wires and hiding them is a piece of cake, IMO. You'll have to take the door apart to get the speakers installed anyway....once it's apart, it will be easy to run wires, IMO.
Although I didn't document every single little thing...you can read about what I did and see pics, right HERE
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Aug 31, 2018 at 08:22 PM.
I did not make any enclosures for the speakers. I bought the non Bose enclosures and used it. Had Best Lies run the wires and I made the finer connections.
I ran my RCA cables over the trans tunnel, along the rear wall (behind the seat) over to one side and then up and over the rear "fender" under the carpet to the rear wall (ahead of the gas tank, below the hatch latch) where my amps are mounted. The carpet is super easy to remove/pull back on the C4 so running wires and hiding them is a piece of cake, IMO. You'll have to take the door apart to get the speakers installed anyway....once it's apart, it will be easy to run wires, IMO.
Although I didn't document every single little thing...you can read about what I did and see pics, right HERE
.
That's some serious wiring. I don't think the OP wants to go that far. I bought a JVC unit that had 25 watts per channel. Stock wiring is fine. If an external amp is used then wire it up with new.
Your best bet is to run new speaker wire everywhere, identifying which wires go where...Select the head unit you want, I was able to find a nice kenwood, for not alot of $$, less than $100, with 40watts RMS per channel, as well as bluetooth, pandora, etc. Have 6x9s in the rear, and 6 1/2" Round in the front. the fronts were a bit more difficult, as you have to basically take the door apart to get the bose mounts out., not a big deal, but time consuming, and I will admit running the speaker wires is a pain in the ***. It's all doable, but just take your time.
James Grant. I used the original speaker wiring while replacing the Bose in my 88 with a JVC unit. 4 inch speakers (by passing the amps) in the doors with a little Dremel help and 6x9's in the rear (someone on the Forum made some very nice 6x9 speaker enclosures). I used the bland Bose speaker covers making sure I bought low profile speakers. I did this 5 years ago and my memory is fuzzy and the Electrical FSM never really shows that the speaker wires at the Bose junction near the speakers, the colored wired wires that Tom400CFI describes change to a stripped wire that are different colors. I used those stripped wires for the speakers. No need for the black/pink/and I think brown at the Bose pig tale. You need the Electrical FSM to pull this off.
Bought my stuff at carstereosonline.com.
running rear speaker wires took me about an hour now I need to know which speakers would be good low profile triaxial 6x9 because Im not doing anything with the front dash speakers and I assume that's where the highs are, also what's a good 4 inch speaker for the doors? And I want to thank everybody again for all the input been very very helpful thank you again
running rear speaker wires took me about an hour now I need to know which speakers would be good low profile triaxial 6x9 because Im not doing anything with the front dash speakers and I assume that's where the highs are, also what's a good 4 inch speaker for the doors? And I want to thank everybody again for all the input been very very helpful thank you again
one more thing I forgot to ask is this a double din radio?
one more thing I forgot to ask is this a double din radio?
Which radio? MY factory radio (a '92) was double DIN. I think the early radio is 1.5 DIN...but could be wrong. The radio in the pic above is single DIN.
Don't know why you'd pay for a "bypass harness". All you need for a new system is:
Let's zoom in a bit and examine this using our eyeballs....
