Wanting to lower engine temp.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 18
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Wanting to lower engine temp.
After driving the car for about an hour or 2 the oil runs around 238 240 and gets up to 145 if I'm giving it hell is there a way to lower the temp??
Last edited by Cloud92; Sep 15, 2018 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Messed up on temp reading
Race Director
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From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
That's pretty cool as it is......IF you are talking about 138-140 degrees Fahrenheit. I sure wouldn't want the oil to run any cooler!!!
Mine typically runs about 196 degrees F. , as I recall, when I'm running hard....and I think that's too cold.
Mine typically runs about 196 degrees F. , as I recall, when I'm running hard....and I think that's too cold.
Last edited by rocco16; Sep 15, 2018 at 11:01 AM.
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Le Mans Master
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From: near the thumb in the mitten
Add external air / oil cooler sealed from engine compartment, under hood temps easily can be over 150 degrees. Using synthetic oil should eliminate need for cooler. The factory oil cooler on the l98 was a water / cooler which would heat or cool oil depending on weather and coolant temp. Oil temperatures of 200 during higher engine speeds (2500-3000) is normal, over 250 would be a worry.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2018
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You didn't mention the MY of you Vette, but if it is a 92-96 LTx, it is designed to run at the temps you are quoting - as part of the emissions strategy (carbon, primarily). However, at WOT on the dragstrip emissions compliance is not the concern as a rule, Besides, the heat generated at WOT will actually burn an abundance of carbon deposits. But, the issue w/ lower operating temps is carbon deposits and fouling and wiping the bores with carbon is like sandpaper between the bore and the rings. (Well, maybe not quite "sandpaper", but you get the drift!)
So, to move it to (say) 170ºF (or less) as many quarter miler gurus do, you'll have to change the thermostat to one that opens in the heat range you desire. AND, you may very likely have to increase the size of the radiator (e.g., a Dewitt Radiator) as the temperature difference (reduction) will often exceed the stock cooling system's capabilities in some (hot w/ AC on) conditions.
Before O2 sensors and knock sensors and the computers to monitor them and make air-fuel adjustments, cooler temps were the norm as part of the anti-knock strategy. Now, with O2 and knock sensors the motors can run much leaner and at higher operating temps too. Back in the "old dayz", a V8 with 170-180k miles was considered high-mileage and rebuild was often imminent. Now-a-dayz 250 or even 300k mile motors often still have good compression and oil pressure after living in a 230º environment all their lives. So, from what I've seen and compared, I wouldn't expect a motor with a 170º 'stat' to maintain compression as well as it might have in the stock scenario. (But, what do I know...except what the advantage of the effect old age has on one's ability to view things from the bigger perspective?
)
So, to move it to (say) 170ºF (or less) as many quarter miler gurus do, you'll have to change the thermostat to one that opens in the heat range you desire. AND, you may very likely have to increase the size of the radiator (e.g., a Dewitt Radiator) as the temperature difference (reduction) will often exceed the stock cooling system's capabilities in some (hot w/ AC on) conditions.
Before O2 sensors and knock sensors and the computers to monitor them and make air-fuel adjustments, cooler temps were the norm as part of the anti-knock strategy. Now, with O2 and knock sensors the motors can run much leaner and at higher operating temps too. Back in the "old dayz", a V8 with 170-180k miles was considered high-mileage and rebuild was often imminent. Now-a-dayz 250 or even 300k mile motors often still have good compression and oil pressure after living in a 230º environment all their lives. So, from what I've seen and compared, I wouldn't expect a motor with a 170º 'stat' to maintain compression as well as it might have in the stock scenario. (But, what do I know...except what the advantage of the effect old age has on one's ability to view things from the bigger perspective?
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Le Mans Master
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Oil Producer
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if your oil is more than 5-8 degrees greater than your coolant, check your catalytic converter(s)
my l98 was sky high 250F oil and the coolant was down at 225F
even with kc4 installed, my oil was crazy hot. discovery of plugged cats was cause
my l98 was sky high 250F oil and the coolant was down at 225F
even with kc4 installed, my oil was crazy hot. discovery of plugged cats was cause
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2018
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I have almost identical temps....I'm thinking it's the cats
Team Owner
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From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
I've run a 160deg T-stat in each '88 since 2000 and she cruises at ~160deg F unless in heavy traffic in hot weather. Under such conditions coolant temps can climb up into the 170-180 deg. range, with both fans running.
BTW, oil temp runs very close to coolant temp but I do have the optional oil cooler so no surprise for me.
BTW, oil temp runs very close to coolant temp but I do have the optional oil cooler so no surprise for me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Dublin CA
First be sure to check your radiator. Remove the plastic covering over the top and look down. Clean out all the debris that has gathered. Next change to a 160 thermostat. The change to a high flow water pump such as the Flow-Kooler pump. This will drop coolant temp and also the oil temps. I used to run about 180-185 on the road with this setup on my 85.
Le Mans Master
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From: indy indiana
NO on removing thermostat question. The coolant will actually run thru faster giving it less time to absorb engine heat and less time to get rid of it in the radiator. old time racers ( I am 68) used to put a large washer in to replace the thermos after drilling a large hole in the washer. You need that thermo.