Handling
I know what you mean about feel and feedback - that tends to fall in favor of the C4 (especially the early ones). But to some extent this can be tuned out even in Street class with a change to one swaybar (allowed) and dampers. But the C5/6 is definitely a more street-driver-friendly car, so it's cushier and better isolated, which translates to less feel. I suspect that if we'd ever gotten a later C4 with a curb weight of only 3100lbs, 9.5/11" wheels, and at least 375rwhp (i.e., what either Z06 brings to the table), it would have been competitive with a C5/6 Z06. I remember when the C5s first came out, it took several years for the autocrossing community to realize it's speed potential. But once the C5Z came out, the C4 was instantly relegated to relic status.
Zak, the C5/6 is probably a bit more rear-biased due to that transaxle. It's not a lot different, though. Dropping an aluminum LS in a C4 might give it the advantage here. The LT5 C4s were hobbled by mass. The LT5 is probably close in power to an LS6, but the engine is really heavy and it's all up front. I think for autocrossing it isn't the best answer, same as a C6 ZR1 isn't the best answer (same issue of more weight, and for autocrossing mass trumps power). For the same reason, the Miata and S2000 are examples of cars whose small size and mass makes them great for autocrossing despite not having much power. Small width and wheelbase are huge advantages in autocrossing, and light cars are seriously advantaged as well. Those cars are fun to autocross, but IMO the lack of power (especially in early Miatas) makes them less fun on tracks and on the street. But that's just my opinion. Finally, don't give up on a C4 as an autocross tool. The hardest thing to find is good stiff springs, now that VBP is out of business. You can still get coilover setups for them, though, and another vendor may soon release the equivalent of the VBP Xtreme springs (stiff and adjustable for ride height). You can get at least decent shocks, just from less companies. Anyway, a friend of mine recently won the NOLA Optima event in GTV class with a C4 with LS7 power and stock geometry, so they aren't slow!
'92 LT1: 51/49
'97 C5: 51.8/48.2
...Effectively the same. Chev mad ea BIG hoopla over teh C5 transaxle and "weight distribution"...but what they REALLY did was move the trans and gain a bunch of foot well room. Any diff in weigh distribution between a base C4 and a C5 could be mitigated w/a battery move.
Here is a cool read, for a perspective on "handling" for the era. 300ZX's "handle awesome"...right? Check out PAGE 2
There are tons. Here is another. Porsches handle awesome...right? I like PAGE 3
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; Oct 22, 2018 at 11:36 PM.
I didn't think the Lotus LT5 was heavy as I thought it was all aluminum etc and made to be light.
I agree the Miata is undepowered. I guess had it been a V6 it could probably be the best of both worlds? Still be great at autocross while being fun on tracks and on the street.
By the way, your red Corvette in your avatar looks great. Do you have larger pictures?

I think people -due to Chevy's marketing, and mag authors "re-tweets" of the OEM- tend to exaggerate and give too much credit here. Remember, while the trans moved to the rear, the gas tank moved forward, and the rear axle moved back.
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I didn't think the Lotus LT5 was heavy as I thought it was all aluminum etc and made to be light.
That's with VBP Xtreme leaf springs front and rear (1125f/550r), urethane front control arm bushings, Banski rear suspension links, an assortment of OE sway bars, a mashup of custom-valved Bilsteins and Koni sports (would like to try the Ridetech offerings someday), and 18x11 wheels with 315/30 Rival S tires at all four corners. It's close to full weight - only the a/c is missing and it probably still weighs over 3200lbs.
There are a few others on the forum that are at least as heavily modified. Here's Chris Ramey's Optima-winning 84:
I would bet his car is 300lbs lighter than mine, with 50% more power and 335 tires at all four corners. And Chris can flat drive. Also, look for Nokones' car on this forum, among others.
Buy the way, your car is stunning! Where can I see more photos?
OTOH, if you're going to a class that allows changes to spring rates and wheel widths, it doesn't matter what factory suspension you run because you'll ditch it all anyway. Also, if you're only focused on autocrossing instead of track competitions, I'd focus less on the engine and more on the suspension and wheels/tires. They are far more important. You can upgrade the engine later, but get the suspension and driver skills sorted first. In general, that means stiffer/lower springs, offset lower control arm bushings up front (for more negative camber), rod-ended links in place of the rear camber arms (same reason), much better shocks, and 11" wheels with 315 tires (or more if you are willing to flare the fenders). Also, source a few different OEM swaybar sizes so you can dial in the front:rear handling balance. More can be done, but this is an excellent starting point. I'd start there and start mulling engine options over time.
Re pics of the car, I appreciate the compliments. It's really just a stock-looking C4 except for being lower and on much wider rolling stock than the factory gave it. And it has a hole in the hood (long story). I don't totally know why, but that seems to really grab people's attention. I get compliments frequently. I guess getting any C4 lower and putting fat tires on it really highlights the great lines of the C4 (GM really hit a design home run with the C4 IMO).
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Oct 25, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Buy the way, your car is stunning! Where can I see more photos?
The ZR1 had a slightly wider rear I think. Not very obvious. And the LT5 is cool, a unique engine in the world of Corvettes. It's not worth it modifying a ZR1 for racing though. Better keep them in good condition as if any C4 is going to be collectible, it's the ZR1.
OTOH, if you're going to a class that allows changes to spring rates and wheel widths, it doesn't matter what factory suspension you run because you'll ditch it all anyway. Also, if you're only focused on autocrossing instead of track competitions, I'd focus less on the engine and more on the suspension and wheels/tires. They are far more important. You can upgrade the engine later, but get the suspension and driver skills sorted first. In general, that means stiffer/lower springs, offset lower control arm bushings up front (for more negative camber), rod-ended links in place of the rear camber arms (same reason), much better shocks, and 11" wheels with 315 tires (or more if you are willing to flare the fenders). Also, source a few different OEM swaybar sizes so you can dial in the front:rear handling balance. More can be done, but this is an excellent starting point. I'd start there and start mulling engine options over time.
Re pics of the car, I appreciate the compliments. It's really just a stock-looking C4 except for being lower and on much wider rolling stock than the factory gave it. And it has a hole in the hood (long story). I don't totally know why, but that seems to really grab people's attention. I get compliments frequently. I guess getting any C4 lower and putting fat tires on it really highlights the great lines of the C4 (GM really hit a design home run with the C4 IMO).
By the way, for some reason I can't access the photos. It says: " 404. That’s an error.
The requested URL was not found on this server. That’s all we know.
"
But thanks for taking the time to post them.
Last edited by Zak2018; Oct 25, 2018 at 06:26 PM.
I imagine a kit is out there, or if not then the fenders can be found...at a considerable price. If you want the wide-rear look, then it may be worth it to you. If you are only interested in performance, skip it. You can still fit 11" wheels and 315 tires inside the regular fenders - you just need 50mm offset instead of only 36mm like the ZR1 had. You'll get the same handling benefits. Or you can flare both front and rear fenders and go for 12-13" wheels with 335 tires for even moar/bettuh grip.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Oct 25, 2018 at 06:51 PM.
Okay, it looks like they are not viewable by the public by default. Try this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mUkWcjM92TnPwdXZ7.
I imagine a kit is out there, or if not then the fenders can be found...at a considerable price. If you want the wide-rear look, then it may be worth it to you. If you are only interested in performance, skip it. You can still fit 11" wheels and 315 tires inside the regular fenders - you just need 50mm offset instead of only 36mm like the ZR1 had. You'll get the same handling benefits. Or you can flare both front and rear fenders and go for 12-13" wheels with 335 tires for even moar/bettuh grip.
Thanks for the pictures. Your car is one of the nicest C4s I have seen.














