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You replace the entire pedal assembly. My friend and I were making the mounts about 10 years ago and selling them. We machined all of the pieces and used oillite bushings for longevity. We stopped making them because the labor and parts were more than the asking price we had. And we didn't want to charge someone much more than an entire pedal assembly which can be had for less than $100.
Well I guess the choices are buy an aftermarket one with a plastic mount, after all the last one lasted 36 years. Or get @mazdaverx7 to make you one and pay the costs. If you choose option B I’ll get one too.
Edit: I think it’s just two 10 mm nuts and disconnect the cable. I think I’d disconnect the cable at the TBI end first to get a bit of slack.
Last edited by GregMartin; May 5, 2020 at 10:23 AM.
To be honest we've had quite a bit of intrest over the years for these brackets. I've talked to my buddy that owns the equipment and he has been skeptical about making them since again. If I can convince him to let me run the lathe and weld them up I'll order some bushings again and see if i can make some. The original we made is in my 84. We made it for that car back in 2009 and it's working perfectly to this day. I'll see what I can do. I do remember that they were difficult to make and the material cost wasn't cheap due to the stainless steel and bushings we used. That's likely my friend's holdup.
To be honest we've had quite a bit of intrest over the years for these brackets. I've talked to my buddy that owns the equipment and he has been skeptical about making them since again. If I can convince him to let me run the lathe and weld them up I'll order some bushings again and see if i can make some. The original we made is in my 84. We made it for that car back in 2009 and it's working perfectly to this day. I'll see what I can do. I do remember that they were difficult to make and the material cost wasn't cheap due to the stainless steel and bushings we used. That's likely my friend's holdup.
Let me know I’ll buy one if you make one. Alternatively I have a little lathe, drill press, mig and arc welder etc in my shed so if you shared the drawings I could make my own. Anyway your call.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by 84 4+3
Here's a fun question. What do you suppose the RPM ceiling is on a stock HEI with fresh oem components.
Not 100% on rpm limit of the distributor, but I would venture to say that it is north of 7500. I think the limiting factor will be the coil, which probably won't go 7500, but maybe it will. The highest I have ever had mine was 6300 and worked just fine. Back in the day on a 69 Z28 302 with a Malory dual point, I missed 2nd gear of all gears and normally shifted at 8K when racing. When I missed 2nd, I watched the big SUN tach bounce off of 10K. It was still running just fine at 10K. This motor wasn't stock either and ran like a scalded dog.
Last edited by Buccaneer; May 11, 2020 at 08:59 AM.
Not 100% on rpm limit of the distributor, but I would venture to say that it is north of 7500. I think the limiting factor will be the coil, which probably won't go 7500, but maybe it will. The highest I have ever had mine was 6300 and worked just fine. Back in the day on a 69 Z28 302 with a Malory dual point, I missed 2nd gear of all gears and normally shifted at 8K when racing. When I missed 2nd, I watched the big SUN tach bounce off of 10K. It was still running just fine at 10K. This motor wasn't stock either and ran like a scalded dog.
Good to know. All I know is that I hit a rpm threshold and afr just tanks rich... around 6000 rpms being honest. The table leading up to that point is pretty flat as far as fueling though so I'm not exactly sure what is going on there.
Good to know. All I know is that I hit a rpm threshold and afr just tanks rich... around 6000 rpms being honest. The table leading up to that point is pretty flat as far as fueling though so I'm not exactly sure what is going on there.
You know some time on a load cell Dyno will reveal all.
Yeah but it is money well spent, provided you have a good tuner or the time to get it right yourself. But I get it
I have yet to find someone who'll touch it sadly. Everyone wants HP tuners. If I was full time right now and not in quarantine I'd do it but... the other thing is that it seems a waste to do it now only to slap on a renegade hopefully and then do it all over again...
I have yet to find someone who'll touch it sadly. Everyone wants HP tuners. If I was full time right now and not in quarantine I'd do it but... the other thing is that it seems a waste to do it now only to slap on a renegade hopefully and then do it all over again...
Yeah well that’s true and the Renegade seams tantalizingly close. It frustrates me when you get the supposed timers who can only use one type of ECU or ECU software. We recently tuned a little bmw M44s. We replaced the factory ECU with a Haltech E8, they are only a couple of hundred bucks but the software is pretty old and you have to use injector pulse width instead of VE so lots of people won’t do it any more. We hired out a dyno did it our selves. Car runs great.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.