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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
IMO the real way to go as far as tuning is concerned is with a Haltech system. I was a step away from installing a Haltech ECU in my car and even talked with them in great length and sent them pics/diagrams to confirm that it would all work for what I wanted to do and it did, bought all the connectors to repin everything, but at the last moment I changed my mind and opted for the EBL Flash II upgrade instead. Was that a good idea? Well, at the time it was since I already had the tune established and with the Haltech I would have to start over again and didn't feel like doing that then. However, with that said and if I decide to build the big motor 421" I will go with the Haltech system to control it so that I can get more granular in the tune which is like what Ben did with his ECM, his is not a 1227747 or 1228746 ECM like most use because of his trans.
BTW, what is that piece go to that you "glued"? I must have missed something along the way and didn't feel like going back through the posts...sorry.
Last edited by Buccaneer; May 17, 2020 at 01:00 PM.
IMO the real way to go as far as tuning is concerned is with a Haltech system. I was a step away from installing a Haltech ECU in my car and even talked with them in great length and sent them pics/diagrams to confirm that it would all work for what I wanted to do and it did, bought all the connectors to repin everything, but at the last moment I changed my mind and opted for the EBL Flash II upgrade instead. Was that a good idea? Well, at the time it was since I already had the tune established and with the Haltech I would have to start over again and didn't feel like doing that then. However, with that said and if I decide to build the big motor 421" I will go with the Haltech system to control it so that I can get more granular in the tune which is like what Ben did with his ECM, his is not a 1227747 or 1228746 ECM like most use because of his trans.
BTW, what is that piece go to that you "glued"? I must have missed something along the way and didn't feel like going back through the posts...sorry.
Attempted fix 2:
Please note: I only have a cutoff wheel, bench grinder and corded drill. This was my second time ever using a welder.
I'm not proud of it but it has to be better than jb weld and crazy glue lol
Yep the welds aren’t beautiful but l’m a big believer in encouragement. There are a couple of secrets to welding particularly if you’re a novice that will help. Firstly get an automatic helmet. When I was an apprentice the automatic helmet didn’t exist. I can think of at least one time when I welded my job to the bench instead of joining to bits of steel together. Next tip if you are using an arc welder the rods like to be hot. You can easily achieve this by clamping a piece of scrap steel under the neutral clamp and striking an arc on it first. This will heat up the rod and give you a bit of practice as well. Notice I said strike an arc, you drag the welding rod (electrode) across the steel like you are striking a match. Next, generally more current is better, obviously more current will blow holes in thin steel but if the steel is think you will get more penetration and the weld will flow easier and the rod won’t stick. Final tip weld on a horizontal surface, this is much easier than welding vertically and way way more easier than welding overhead (leave that to the professionals). These tips are for arc welding but some of the same rules apply for MIG and TIG remember you’re just trying to make a pool of steel flow along a join. When I taught my sons to weld I told them “Now you are men because you can stick steel together with fire”.
Also remember if the weld didn’t turn out the way you wanted just grind it off and do it again. Also I would recommend that you expand your tool box to include a couple of files and maybe a bench grinder.
Thanks for sharing, I know what I’m going to do if mine lets go anytime soon
Last edited by GregMartin; May 19, 2020 at 01:41 AM.
Did you install a bushing in the pedal pivot where the bolt goes through? This is needed. Its looks good given the limited tools you have. Any honestly you can always clean it up a little and paint it black. No one is going to see it under there anyways.
Yep the welds aren’t beautiful but l’m a big believer in encouragement. There are a couple of secrets to welding particularly if you’re a novice that will help. Firstly get an automatic helmet. When I was an apprentice the automatic helmet didn’t exist. I can think of at least one time when I welded my job to the bench instead of joining to bits of steel together. Next tip if you are using an arc welder the rods like to be hot. You can easily achieve this by clamping a piece of scrap steel under the neutral clamp and striking an arc on it first. This will heat up the rod and give you a bit of practice as well. Notice I said strike an arc, you drag the welding rod (electrode) across the steel like you are striking a match. Next, generally more current is better, obviously more current will blow holes in thin steel but if the steel is think you will get more penetration and the weld will flow easier and the rod won’t stick. Final tip weld on a horizontal surface, this is much easier than welding vertically and way way more easier than welding overhead (leave that to the professionals). These tips are for arc welding but some of the same rules apply for MIG and TIG remember you’re just trying to make a pool of steel flow along a join. When I taught my sons to weld I told them “Now you are men because you can stick steel together with fire”.
Also remember if the weld didn’t turn out the way you wanted just grind it off and do it again. Also I would recommend that you expand your tool box to include a couple of files and maybe a bench grinder.
Thanks for sharing, I know what I’m going to do if mine lets go anytime soon
Funny thing is my first welding attempt ever was stick. I would say I'm better at that a little. This was self shielded flux core. It was easier than the stick because I really don't have a circuit large enough for the stick welder. As I did it I got better but probably shouldn't have done it at midnight in my driveway in the dark lol.
Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
Did you install a bushing in the pedal pivot where the bolt goes through? This is needed. Its looks good given the limited tools you have. Any honestly you can always clean it up a little and paint it black. No one is going to see it under there anyways.
I have one of those nylon tubes and washers through it. I left the pivot slightly loose as to not really allow binding anyway. I have an oil impregnated bushing to slide in after I see how it does today.
Funny thing is my first welding attempt ever was stick. I would say I'm better at that a little. This was self shielded flux core. It was easier than the stick because I really don't have a circuit large enough for the stick welder. As I did it I got better but probably shouldn't have done it at midnight in my driveway in the dark lol.
Yeah I have one of those little Gasless MIGs but I prefer the stick for anything with a bit of size. In the driveway in the dark not ideal
Definitely need some cooling mods. First day above 80 and the car ran 220 no matter what. Kind of figured. I can limp it down to 210 with the air off but I built this thing with full intentions of it being able to operate as it did stock.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by 84 4+3
Definitely need some cooling mods. First day above 80 and the car ran 220 no matter what. Kind of figured. I can limp it down to 210 with the air off but I built this thing with full intentions of it being able to operate as it did stock.
I see a aluminum radiator in your future. My DeWitts keeps mine pretty cool at about 195*-200* when it's 100* outside, but I live in Mexico.
Radiator upgrade does help.
i can get mine to 190 on a hot day if I'm doimg highway speeds.
One tip tho, seal the f out of the sides and the top of the rad and condenser.
The fan side, close the gap on the corners where there is a pass through.
I still have a long ways to go, like i can't run ac at low speeds. Even at highway speeds im right around 190-210 with it on.
I need more fans, maybe a brandname Radiator...
i have a "champion" 2 pass now.
Radiator upgrade does help.
i can get mine to 190 on a hot day if I'm doimg highway speeds.
One tip tho, seal the f out of the sides and the top of the rad and condenser.
The fan side, close the gap on the corners where there is a pass through.
I still have a long ways to go, like i can't run ac at low speeds. Even at highway speeds im right around 190-210 with it on.
I need more fans, maybe a brandname Radiator...
i have a "champion" 2 pass now.
See and I would think not to seal those passages. It would seem like they bypass the restriction of the fan at speed but still allow it to operate at idle fine. Interesting.
So I've got the tune pretty decent. Got a clean wot rip last night and it pulled up to what I assume was my fuel cut. Now I assume this because my data log wasn't running and it was clean all the way up and then dropped and picked back up like I bumped the key off. I haven't checked it yet but thats my story and I'm sticking with it lol.
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I was a step away from installing a Haltech ECU in my car and even talked with them in great length and sent them pics/diagrams to confirm that it would all work for what I wanted to do and it did, bought all the connectors to repin everything, but at the last moment I changed my mind and opted for the EBL Flash II upgrade instead. Was that a good idea? Well, at the time it was since I already had the tune established and with the Haltech I would have to start over again and didn't feel like doing that then. However, with that said and if I decide to build the big motor 421" I will go with the Haltech system to control it so that I can get more granular in the tune which is like what Ben did with his ECM, his is not a 1227747 or 1228746 ECM like most use because of his trans.
