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Thanks for the info and link. My only hesitation on return/trade is that these Osram where "plug n' play" as well. And in scanning the 206 questions/replies on Amazon, I see a myriad of different "issues"--as mine are slightly different from the original poster--and some with none at all. I think it has more to do with the idiosyncrasies of how 27-year-old electrical system handles low voltage than with the units themselves.
I was just looking at this same set the other day, but hesitated based on this thread. How is the focus and cutoff, are these going to blind oncoming traffic? Also any pics of what they look like installed? I liked these because they look they might blend in a little better than some of the other more in your face designs.
My son bought a 92 last summer. He is 17 and wanted a vette since he was 5. He has saved for years to afford one. It needs some work but runs and drives nicely. He doesn't like driving it at night because the headlights suck. For his birthday we bought him an LED upgrade kit. Once installed they turned on and flipped open but when turned off they would not shut all of the way off and would not flip closed. I tried installing a load resistor but it did not help. I am assuming the kit I bought did not have enough load resistance in the lights.
Can any one recommend a LED kit that works and activates the flip lights? Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks
I have a '90 (ZR-1) and converted it to LEDs, including headlights. There are a LOT of things to consider; legal and technical. But, IMO, LEDs are the way to go!
PM me and I'll send you the article (Part-1) which will get your lights installed in fine fashion, trouble free. NOTE: The LED conversion will NOT affect the headlights far as flipping open/closed goes, as so many have indicated. AND, the LED headlights do not add any appreciable weight to the headlight motors! - none that I'm aware of at least!
Aklim-- thanks for the Link. Both you and kmcoldcars provided that seems a little more sano then mine.
Using the units I made note of in post #.21 they solved ALL the issues I was having--so no need to reground anything.
The terse instructions were in that broken English--from vendors using google translate--warned of heat and to mind plastic. sounded even more ominous with the aforementioned English. Since the headlights spin, I can really anchor the resistors on the frame of the car anywhere--without some king of H4 extension (and I was done buying parts) So I used some old heatshield I had from when I was spending pointless money on my Miata. And lined the side of the inner headlight bucket.
Then I situated them for airflow and used tie-raps to loosely secure them.
Ultimately, the device I used and those suggested are just 5ohm 50w resisters. The trick is KNOWING that all they re and not wondering "now what do I try?"
Has any one had, (or heard of someone else having), a heating problem when adding the resistors. I would think that they produce a fair amount of heat, and they are located in a rather confined space.
I have an 89 that I just put Peak LED headlights in. The headlights are awesome but now my fog light switch activates the high beams instead of the fog lights. As I understand it the fog light circuit is different in the pre 1990 models. Is there any known fix for this? Alternatively, is the problem caused by the difference in current draw between the headlights and fogs? IE if I replace the dogs with LEDs would they function normally again?
I have an 89 that I just put Peak LED headlights in. The headlights are awesome but now my fog light switch activates the high beams instead of the fog lights. As I understand it the fog light circuit is different in the pre 1990 models. Is there any known fix for this? Alternatively, is the problem caused by the difference in current draw between the headlights and fogs? IE if I replace the dogs with LEDs would they function normally again?
