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Last night I pulled the spark plugs and added a squirt of PB Blaster and some Marvel to each cylinder. Today I'll see if I can manually turn the crankshaft. Hoping she spins.
If she spins, I'll begin taking off the lid with TBs, clean up the TBs and get the rebuild kit.
If she doesn't want to spin...
She looks dirty but not neglected imo... she'll spin. Easily work it. Once it goes keep adding and let it soak. Let it soak for a while anyway.
Thanks, that's helpful. And yes, yours looks different - so clean
When I removed mine, instead of comparing each bolt to see if they were differing sizes, I made a detailed bolt-diagram from a flat piece of a cardboard box about 2ft square. I drew a diagram of each bolt position including the EGR valve. Each position got a small slit from my razor knife. As I removed a fastener, I shoved it in the corresponding place in the cardboard. I had enough to keep up with, that was one less thing to do.
Finally, I am sure some of the other guys will coach you on the rebuild, but be conscious of the injectors - I was told it matters which side although they look almost identical. In addition, also watch the components of the injectors in the kit.
Tom400CFI would be much better with advising you on rebuilding that CFI. I have a “vast” experience of twice!! I know just enough to get myself in trouble.
Now I contemplate removing the throttle body lid. I removed the fuel cap to help relieve any pressure before removing the fuel line, and found this. At least the fuel filler will need replacing, agreed? Other thoughts?
Now I contemplate removing the throttle body lid. I removed the fuel cap to help relieve any pressure before removing the fuel line, and found this. At least the fuel filler will need replacing, agreed? Other thoughts?
OMG! That’s pretty harsh. I just changed my fuel sender assembly on my 91 because my fuel gauge was stuck. The car has been used very little for last two years. This is what I found on the inside after two years. Imagine what yours will look like after soooo long.....
On your throttle body plate, there are two injectors, one in each body. One is referred to as “forward” for obvious reasons. The two injectors are not interchangeable. Be sure to replace properly. I don’t know if you are replacing the originals or cleaning them, but just get them in the correct body.
Here again are the throttle bodies. Plates were stuck but are moving now. The electrical connections look great, but everything else is quite rough/weathered. I can send them out for a rebuild for $395, or do it myself (my preference) but I wonder if I can clean everything up adequately. Is it safe to be liberal with carb cleaner and a wire brush? Do I need to be concerned about the seals along the rods the butterfly valves attach to?
I'd appreciate thoughts from those with experience, thanks.
Last edited by chris3moore; Dec 26, 2020 at 11:03 PM.
Reason: Add detail
Here again are the throttle bodies. Plates were stuck but are moving now. The electrical connections look great, but everything else is quite rough/weathered. I can send them out for a rebuild for $395, or do it myself (my preference) but I wonder if I can clean everything up adequately. Is it safe to be liberal with carb cleaner and a wire brush? Do I need to be concerned about the seals along the rods the butterfly valves attach to?
That thing is rough. Here is what I'd do;
1. Hit it with a power washer. if you don't have a power washer, take it to a U-do it, car wash and use their power washer/wand. Blast it.
2. Spray it all down with some variant of "Alumabrite" -etching aluminum brightener. This stuff is way, WAY better than any detergent b/c it literally eats off the top layer of aluminum (microscopic amount, but enough to make it shine again). If you can't find it, go to an auto parts store and but some "Eagle 1 brand, etching mag wheel cleaner -it's the same thing. Spray the lid and TB's down, everywhere...all over. Let it sit about 60 seconds, blast it off w/water. Do it again. That thing is going to take several sessions with the etching cleaner, I think.
AFTER that cleaning, then I'd take it apart and start assessing what you've got; TB shaft wear? Injector O-rings and screens? Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm? Check the IAC pintles and passages, etc. If all looks serviceable, clean more and re-assemble with necessary parts.
That thing is rough. Here is what I'd do;
1. Hit it with a power washer. if you don't have a power washer, take it to a U-do it, car wash and use their power washer/wand. Blast it.
2. Spray it all down with some variant of "Alumabrite" -etching aluminum brightener. This stuff is way, WAY better than any detergent b/c it literally eats off the top layer of aluminum (microscopic amount, but enough to make it shine again). If you can't find it, go to an auto parts store and but some "Eagle 1 brand, etching mag wheel cleaner -it's the same thing. Spray the lid and TB's down, everywhere...all over. Let it sit about 60 seconds, blast it off w/water. Do it again. That thing is going to take several sessions with the etching cleaner, I think.
AFTER that cleaning, then I'd take it apart and start assessing what you've got; TB shaft wear? Injector O-rings and screens? Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm? Check the IAC pintles and passages, etc. If all looks serviceable, clean more and re-assemble with necessary parts.
I see the previous advice to leave the TBs mounted to the lid, but no need to remove anything more? I tend to worry about electronic parts.
I have a pressure washer and an air compressor, this will be an interesting project for the day.
For what it's worth: Before you do too much contract Fuel Injector Connection (FIC) in GA. Google is your friend. Talk to them about what you have and what you want to do. Restore to stock, add power, etc. They know their stuff and will steer you in the right direction. Their injector services and parts are top notch. YMMV
While that is typically good advice, I'm not sure how much they'll know about the CFI system. You could try it though...see what they say.
Originally Posted by chris3moore
I see the previous advice to leave the TBs mounted to the lid, but no need to remove anything more? I tend to worry about electronic parts.
I have a pressure washer and an air compressor, this will be an interesting project for the day.
The electrical components are pretty robust, but you could remove the TPS and IAC's if you wanted to. I wouldn't worry about getting the injectors wet.
I'd keep the TB bodies affixed to the plate, then remove the "injector pods from the bodies, and service them off the bodies. You can remove the T15 (?) torx screws around the top of the injector pods, pop that top off (you'll need new paper gaskets once you remove them, most likely, so get them now), then use a screw driver to grab the 'mushroomed' part of the injector between the pins, to pry the injector up and out of the o-rings that secure it into the housing when the top is off. It helps to lay another screw driver across the top of the flange, and use that as your fulcrum point to pry with the other screw driver.
I'm diving in today and tomorrow doing the TB rebuild. The shop manual has me nervous, because it only says to not take the fuel meter bodies apart, it's a factory set unit, and I can't find instructions for it's disassembly. I have parts for it in my rebuild kit, is there anything I need to be concerned about?
Also, I measured the torque required to manually turn the crank, and it's right at 40 ft-lbs. Does this seem reasonable?
I decided to remove the throttle bodies because the fuel line nut going into the driver's side TB is being a pain. Before doing so I checked to be sure I have the correct gaskets. I have three, as pictured. The black one is really thick. The manual is no help, can someone tell me what's up with these? Thanks.
Last edited by chris3moore; Jan 2, 2021 at 12:31 AM.
Reason: Typo
IDK what that black gasket is for. The other two are the TB base gaskets....which we hope that you don't have to separate the TB's from the lid plate....you shouldn't need those gaskets. You need the gaskets for the injector pod assy's. They are totally servicable. IDK why any manual would claim that they're not. (?)
Originally Posted by chris3moore
I'm diving in today and tomorrow doing the TB rebuild. The shop manual has me nervous, because it only says to not take the fuel meter bodies apart, it's a factory set unit, and I can't find instructions for it's disassembly. I have parts for it in my rebuild kit, is there anything I need to be concerned about?
Also, I measured the torque required to manually turn the crank, and it's right at 40 ft-lbs. Does this seem reasonable?
David Vizard's book, "How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy", says that a fresh rebuild should be right around 55 ft lbs to turn. So I'd say you're in the ball park for a broken in engine.
