Looks bad and obviously the pump and sender unit is a goner. BUT the tank maybe not. My 86 looked similar and I was able to save the tank. There should be a membrane in the tank and if it survived the rest is just clean up. Unfun, smelly, toxic (perhaps), but just clean up. Start by getting a cheap siphon from auto parts store and try to remove the stagnate fuel. Mop up as much of the rusty bits as you can. Let it dry out for a few days and get in there with a shop vac. You might be surprised. Easier, and cheaper, than full tank replacement.

 

THis is why we store our cars with a FULL tank of fuel; to mitigate condensation.

I agree with Weck86 that there is a membrane and the tank should be usable after cleaning.

I DO NOT agree with using a shop vac for cleaning the tank out. Gas vapors are in the tank -even after siphoning and swabbing. Vapors can get pulled into the shop vac and ignited by static and/or the vac's motor. I do agree w/vac'ing it out after swabbing it, but I would use a venturi vacuum to do that.

 

I know a guy that killed his son and injured himself for life using a shop vac on an old and what he thought was empty gas tank.

 

Yeah, that shop vac thing was bad advice. NEVER weld on an old tank either. Wasn't thinking and that is how you get hurt. Now that i have my head on straight, I think I used a damp shop rag to pick up the last bits in my tank. Probably got 98% plus out, which has worked out good enough for me. You suck up crap from gas station tanks anyway, that's what the sock is for. Anyway great catch Tom, thank-you.

 

Easy thing to over look. Good advice about welding on a tank too -that is a mistake I made/over looked years ago. I had a tech that wanted to weld eyes on a used oil tank to lift it from a pit. I thought that was fine. Actually, I didn't really THINK about it at all. The result was the lowest point in my career when a staff and friend of mine got hurt. A lesson that I will never forget.

Excellent point to pass along.

 

Thanks guys, good advice.

So I'll finish pumping (with my hand pump) the remaining fuel from the tank and dispose of it properly tomorrow. I'll clean up the pump/filler hole, and I think I'll attach a small stiff plastic-bristled brush to a stick/wand of some sort to sweep the inside of the tank. Once the debris is removed, use a mirror to inspect the bladder.

With respect to the fuel lines, I'll remove the fuel filter of course. Should I use compressed air to clear the lines, or what advice do you have for that job?

Thanks!

 

I had a whole class on purging and inerting tanks before work. Professor had an incident on a grains silo actually. But the dust did exactly the same thing as vapor with a welder. Crazy stuff.

They also make sealed housing vacuums for doing tanks and stuff. usually use brushless motors and isolation. I have a vacuum oil changer with a manual pump handle I use for things like that. I trust no electronics for that crap.

 

Got the tank dried and cleaned out nicely. The liner appears to be in good shape, thankfully.

A couple of questions -
1. In the picture below I've circled a part on the old pump that has two wires running to it. There is no similar part on the new pump and I have a spare connector with two wires. Am I missing a part? And if so, what?

2. I removed the fuel filter. Is it safe to hit the fuel lines with compressed air to blow them out? If not, is there anything I should be doing to clear the lines?

Thanks!

 

The new part is just the sending unit assy.....you still need to add the pump (the part circled) and pick-up sock. you'll plug that two pin plug, into the pump motor.

You can blow out the lines w/compressed air, if you've unhooked them up front.









..

 

Jeez I feel so silly. Yeah that should have been obvious. Thanks!

 

Ok so I blew the fuel lines out and mounted the pump onto the filler neck, dropped it into my nice clean tank. The strainer hits the bottom of the plastic cup leaving about 1/8 inch gap between the tank and filter assembly at the front of the filler assembly flange. Have I not assembled it correctly, or is it ok to screw it in? Yes, the gasket is in place.

Thanks!

 

It's not exactly a "precision" assembly. I'd bolt it in.

 

If you compare the dimensions of the new assembly to your old one and make sure they match, then put the pump into the little carrier, not much else you can do. Make sure the new assembly is not deformed or bent. Press your new sock formerly into the intake port, make sure your wires are fully plugged in. Also make sure the wires won’t tangle with the sender as it moves.
How bad was the bottom of the tank?

 

The filler assemblies match, so I'm certain I have the right part. Interestingly, the old unit did not have a strainer attached, and it wasn't amongst the debris in the tank.

The tank had lots of crap. I got a lot out with a magnet, then wet rags, then used the sticky side of masking tape.

I'll double check the seating of the strainer and go from there.

Thanks!

 

Requesting recommendations. What temp thermostat and radiator cap should I install, and also what is recommended for motor oil?

TIA

 

Oh dear lord! Now you've done it! You could have started a new thread, asked either ONE of those questions, and that ONE topic would be debated for infinity! You've gone and dropped a double whammy, here!

They're both a personal choice and virtually any choice, is fine.
The oil? Any brand name today is way, WAY better than good enough. What's your fancy? Buy that. Just get the weight right (What the owner's manual recommends), then change it when it's due.
Coolant temp? That could be debated until the end of time. Some like cooler for more power and a larger "margin" to "overheat".....others claim that low temps wear cylinders -a claim made with no evidence. Engine Masters had several episodes where they show an engine make pretty significantly more power, when run cold (~130*F), than hot (200*F)..... 130*F is too cold to get meaningful heat from your heater, and your cooling system won't drive the temp down that low anyway.
The LT1 came from GM with an "acceptable" temperature operating range that swings a whopping 50*F; the stat starts to open at 180, so that establishes the low end of the acceptable range, and the fans come on at about 230....so there is your "high" end of the acceptable range. Boats, which use the same V8 engines as cars, run 150-160. The take away? Anything from 150-230 is "fine" in my book, so select what ever temp stat you "like"....get the number that you feel good about, then rationalize that decision like everyone else does, with all kinds of your own, made up reasons....and enjoy it from now on.

 

The only down side to less than a 195 is on the 4+3 the overdrive won't engage. I ran a 180 and any highway time for more than a minute would force it out.

 

Really? That's lame. I'd rewire that some-bee. No harm in running in OD at say, 100*F.

 

the on temp went from 178 to 140 in later years. Never understood why. The 84 being the way it was was less documented on how to wire it to just be an on off switch too. That being said with the EBL I have no issues lol.. works at 100 if I so want. I think the low rpms at high speed could've driven it out of closed loop if it were still that cold... its the only thing I could think of as to why. It was enough of a problem that they fixed it though.

 

I carefully got the radiator draincock opened about a quarter turn. How many turns is fully open? I fear turning it much more until I understand how far it is designed to turn.

Also, I pulled the valve covers and found that Permatex was used by the last person to install them as gaskets. I ordered and have Fel-Pro gaskets for them. Does anyone have a preference on RTV vs. using the classic gasket?

Thanks!