When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The black gasket is used on the single TB version used in 4 cylinders. You should be okay pulling the TBs. They have indexing pins. The link and sync will stay pretty close. I've done it.
The pod is set at the factory for the bladder. But all you're doing is reassemble with the new parts and the old spring so it isn't an issue. I attached photos showing the pressure regulator and the tamper plug.
You just put it together like that again and you're good.
IDK what that black gasket is for. The other two are the TB base gaskets....which we hope that you don't have to separate the TB's from the lid plate....you shouldn't need those gaskets. You need the gaskets for the injector pod assy's. They are totally servicable. IDK why any manual would claim that they're not. (?)
David Vizard's book, "How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy", says that a fresh rebuild should be right around 55 ft lbs to turn. So I'd say you're in the ball park for a broken in engine.
I also hoped to not remove the TBs from the lid. However, to remove the injector pods the fuel line between the TBs must be removed, and the the nut going into the left TB (where the fuel line threads into) is coming loose, while the fuel line flange nut going into it is not. It's very difficult to get a hold on the nut, so I'm contemplating removing the TBs to be able to get a wrench on the fuel line nut.
I've soaked it good with Blaster and will give it a try again in the morning. Let me know if I'm missing something here or if there's a better way.
I also hoped to not remove the TBs from the lid. However, to remove the injector pods the fuel line between the TBs must be removed, and the the nut going into the left TB (where the fuel line threads into) is coming loose, while the fuel line flange nut going into it is not. It's very difficult to get a hold on the nut, so I'm contemplating removing the TBs to be able to get a wrench on the fuel line nut.
I've soaked it good with Blaster and will give it a try again in the morning. Let me know if I'm missing something here or if there's a better way.
Thanks!
on the fuel line nut... get the 5/8 on it good and then the 3/4 on the adapter behind it. If you have an air hammer... hit the 5/8 wrench in the loosening direction. That always seems to work for me. Should be a quick tap. Otherwise I have no suggestions on how to get it off. I cut the line on the last set I did and used a socket and impact gun...
on the fuel line nut... get the 5/8 on it good and then the 3/4 on the adapter behind it. If you have an air hammer... hit the 5/8 wrench in the loosening direction. That always seems to work for me. Should be a quick tap. Otherwise I have no suggestions on how to get it off. I cut the line on the last set I did and used a socket and impact gun...
The trouble is getting on the 3/4" adapter nut - it's coming loose, but the 5/8" is the one that's stuck. Hoping I don't have to cut the line, but if they're available and not too expensive I'm not opposed to doing that.
The trouble is getting on the 3/4" adapter nut - it's coming loose, but the 5/8" is the one that's stuck. Hoping I don't have to cut the line, but if they're available and not too expensive I'm not opposed to doing that.
Strange. I have no issues getting a 3/4 and a 5/8 on mounted.
Thanks for the help, the fuel line is off and I've cleaned and refreshed the regulator and accumulator.
Different topic, I'm going to replace the EGR valve, but there is a part for CA emissions and one for federal emissions. Any hints on how to figure out if I've got California car?
Cleaned up much better than I feared. The gasket between the manifold and lid should be here this week.
I want to clean up the valve covers while waiting on the fuel tank sensor/filler assembly. How much of a pain is it to remove them? Any tricks or traps to be aware of?
Last edited by chris3moore; Jan 4, 2021 at 09:45 AM.
Reason: Typo
@chris3moore If you want it, it is yours. (I honestly thought it looked better... this is pretty sad lol.)
Lol appearance-wise that's about the same as mine. I don't know that mine doesn't work, but it's a component I want to be sure about on the first turn off the key. I'll get a new one, shiny to go with the throttle bodies. I appreciate the offer!!
Related, I have a rear spoiler for the car that I will never put on, if anyone is looking.
Lol appearance-wise that's about the same as mine. I don't know that mine doesn't work, but it's a component I want to be sure about on the first turn off the key. I'll get a new one, shiny to go with the throttle bodies. I appreciate the offer!!
Related, I have a rear spoiler for the car that I will never put on, if anyone is looking.
All good. That one does 100% function. I checked lol.
All good though. Figured I'd try since it wasn't of use to me.
Pulled the fuel filler/pump out tonight. OMG, here are a few pictures. In the last one you can see the crap in the bottom of the tank. From the condition of the filler/pump opening it looks like I just need to replace the tank - recommendations/hints/tricks? All wisdom (and commentary) is appreciated!
(I honestly thought it looked better... this is pretty sad lol.)
I appreciate the offer!!
