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Now removed the rear calipers…used bolts with old crush washers to seal the hoses in the meantime
Rears fully rebuilt and painted
Front jl9 rotor vs j55
Jl9 vs j55..much thicker/more meat
Rear caliper mounted, I painted the rotors with a little overspray to end up with a clean line after a stop or two
J55s
Brand new centric rotors and dynamic friction advanced performance pads from rock auto. Let me say I was less than impressed with the boxes/shipping. I honestly am shocked they weren’t damaged or things missing.
Now I ran into a problem…for the life of me I could not get the proportioning piston out of the bore with the master in the car. 93 master is different than other videos I’ve seen…there is nothing to “hook” to as the spring faces outward (in other words backwards from earlier masters). Mine was super stuck…so begrudgingly I removed the master from the car.
Smacking the master on a piece of wood did nothing…(FSM instructions). So I had to get creative. I found a bolt that threaded into the c-clip perfectly. Mounted the bolt in my wooden vice on my work bench and whacked the master with a mallet and finally:
Ewwwwwwwww
You can see the bolt just threaded into the clip.
I finally came to the conclusion that even cleaned up I couldn’t trust the master and to me it wasn’t worth reinstalling without a complete rebuild. So I ordered a new one.
This bias spring install went easy:
This is the size that fits the nut to remove the proportioning valve/cylinder. I happened to have it because it is also the the exact same size as the nut on my double tapered ARE shaft on the nautique.
Valve body
Difference between standard spring (left) and updated bias spring (right).
I used the Allen to push the spring down and was able to get the clip in there after a few tries…
Now to bench bleed
Exercising the piston to get the air out. New master came with nice plugs, but nothing for the ABS prime pipe nipple. Improvised a hose
So now here I am feeling pretty good..I then remounted the master, and bled at all four wheels using my vacuum bleeder that hooks to my compressor. Pedal feels decent but won’t know for sure yet. I put Castrol SRF in it.
New master installed and bled
On to the wheels and tires…forgot about them! I went with Continental ExtremeContact Sports all around. 295/35R18s on cheap (<$400 for the set) 10.5 x 18inch wheels. I ceramic coated the wheels after the tires were mounted and balanced…should hopefully assist with washing brake dust off more easily and protect the cheap wheels.
.
No center caps yet
Comparing front size
So back to today…Time to put the new wheels on for the first time! Wholly crap I may actually drive it tonight!!!
That fills the wheel well nicely!
…need center cap stickers…
I go to mount the last wheel on the car and……….sad trombone…it’s completely flat. I mean 0 psi flat. WTH! So I try putting air in it and am greeted by a nice hissing sound from the bead on the inside. In two spots!
Tape marks where it is leaking
Not sure what happened there. I know for a fact it wasn’t leaking like that when I got it. It’s been a few weeks so all I can think of is it had a leak somewhere (either bead or valve stem) and it went all the way to 0 and lost the inside bead. I tried overinflating it/smacking the tire with a mallet and no change. I guess I’m taking it back to where I had it mounted to have them fix it. Hopefully I can do that tomorrow and actually get this thing out for a test drive.
Success!!! Went for a drive this evening and bedded in the brakes. I am going to wait till my next drive to see what the brakes can really do but so far it seems flat and during the bedding it was pretty impressive. Already have brake dust on the wheels lol!
Thanks for the great info in this thread. I am embarking on a very similar journey very soon. Basically everything you did plus oil pan and oil filter adapter seals. I am going to now pay attention to the cooling system in the same manner you did. I had some gunk on the surge tank cap and around the mouth. Sediment in the bottom of my empty (ugh) expansion tank. I just got the car last year and ran it for the summer. I have a 95 with 73k on it so I’m hoping my vented opti just needs the cap and rotor and a replacement vent system. I’m also going to do a Meziere HD electric water pump. I already have a cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. Hopefully the opti internals and bearing are good (prayers please) and I don’t have to go with a whole Petris unit.
Thanks for the great info in this thread. I am embarking on a very similar journey very soon. Basically everything you did plus oil pan and oil filter adapter seals. I am going to now pay attention to the cooling system in the same manner you did. I had some gunk on the surge tank cap and around the mouth. Sediment in the bottom of my empty (ugh) expansion tank. I just got the car last year and ran it for the summer. I have a 95 with 73k on it so I’m hoping my vented opti just needs the cap and rotor and a replacement vent system. I’m also going to do a Meziere HD electric water pump. I already have a cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. Hopefully the opti internals and bearing are good (prayers please) and I don’t have to go with a whole Petris unit.
Good luck! Definitely take the time to thoroughly clean out the surge tank and expansion tank. Remove both from the car to do so. Thoroughly flush your heater core too. Flush the radiator and block (pull knock sensors). Do a thorough job the first time so you don’t have to KEEP doing it (my flush jobs weren’t thorough enough initially apparently). Inspect the inside/outside of hoses and replace them if suspect or packed with junk (like mine).
If you are pulling the pan and WP and opti, you may want to consider the timing cover gasket. I did only the WP/opti shaft seals.
Expect to find other things along the way, but in the end it’s worth it and you can feel confident about your car!
start a thread with questions etc as you go if you have them.
Good luck! Definitely take the time to thoroughly clean out the surge tank and expansion tank. Remove both from the car to do so. Thoroughly flush your heater core too. Flush the radiator and block (pull knock sensors). Do a thorough job the first time so you don’t have to KEEP doing it (my flush jobs weren’t thorough enough initially apparently). Inspect the inside/outside of hoses and replace them if suspect or packed with junk (like mine).
If you are pulling the pan and WP and opti, you may want to consider the timing cover gasket. I did only the WP/opti shaft seals.
Expect to find other things along the way, but in the end it’s worth it and you can feel confident about your car!
start a thread with questions etc as you go if you have them.
Will do. And yes I am doing the timing cover gasket. I bought the entire kit and while it’s already apart, why not. I will start a thread
not sure how i missed your thread, looking great! Got to the track yet to burn some of that rubber and test your brakes? 😃
Thanks! I had fully planned to go to the track, this year.
However after all of the work here, I had to have the trans in my truck rebuilt to the tune of $3500 (75k mi)…and I am now saving to put a new roof on the house as I got some bad news there…. A few other unexpected things also hit me… not to say “woe is me” or whine too much but essentially my “fun” money got soaked up so this got pushed down the list… The car is ready though!
Outside chance I catch a session before the end of the season…
