My god i'm throughly pissed right now. So here is my little rant. I'm no tup to reall ybuilding engine anymore. I hurt to much to do it. So I was looking on the internet for a good reman engine site & came upon S&S engine manufacturing Co. I did some research & found good things about them on different forums. So I called them.
This is what I ordered. A 4 bolt 350 .040 w/10.5:1 pistons. 2.02/1.6 valves & roller rockers. & a few more things.
The camshaft was supposed to be a Adv Dur 274/284 V. Lift w/1.6 rockers of 505 & 460, ect..
What I get is 1.5 roller tips( I knew this a while ago..they didnt charge for them) & a cam with Adv dur 269 271 V.lift 404 & 415. ALSO they put in the 2.02's but Kept the 1.5's..I was like WTF!!!!! But it gets better. IT'S STOCK COMPRESSION!!!!!!
But the screwed up part is. I ordered over the phone. The guy took the order ( wrote down what I said) & they built the engine. So there is nothing stating what I actually told him...In other words he wrote down what he wanted!!!!
So I need some advice. I know i'm stuck with this heap now. I dont feel like ripping it apart to change out the cam. So I might go with some 1.7 rockers to get the cam up to par. But I cant remember the formula to figure out the lift with the bigger rockers.
Also I now have 30lb/hr injectors in there, obviously overkill now. SO which direction do I go from here?
Put on the 1.6's & sell the 30's & get 26's?
All I know is i'm hurting bad & dont have much more time to screw around with this car let alone the engine.
So i'm open it any advice you can all give me.
Here are the mods it does currently have..THAT I DID & currently have
(just listing engine & tranny)
SLP intake runners, Ported upper & lower plenum's, AFPR, 30 lb/hr injectors, chipped ECU, CF dual friction clutch, Air pump bypass, upgraded intank pump, Borla exhaust, STOCK manifolds( maybe soon to change), getting a 58mm TB, thats all I can think of right now. I'm so pissed.
I dont even know what to do right now. I was building it up for the cam & compression. But those are not easily changed.

words of advice...PLEASE!!!
I just want the damn thing to run at this point. It has been parked for over a year, with me replacing damn near everything on it. This is the last thing I need to deal with.

 

To figure out the lift with the bigger rockers take the lift w/ the 1.5 rockers and divide by 1.5 then multiply the result by 1.7 and now you'll have the new lift.

0.404/1.5=0.269*1.7=0.457"
0.415/1.5=0.277*1.7=0.471"

That sounds like a very mild cam that they put in there. You may want to consider replacing the cam now that the engine is still out. Even if you go with the 1.7 rockers to increase the lift, your duration is still going to be low. Good luck.

 

Thank you fo rthe info. the problem is. The engine is in the car. All bolted up & ready to go. Except the harness. I was just spinning the engine over & noticed the lack of lift on the rockers & looked into it( which I know I should have done earlier). But I figured with as much as they do & the rep they have I wouldnt have a problem. I am NOT pulling that engine back out..f*** that.

What do you think of having the 30's in there? Sell them & get smaller. I'll do that & sacrifice power.

 

If you're looking at the valve lift while spinning the engine over, and you have hydraulic lifters, then one thing to keep in mind is that the plunger in the lifter is sinking until it bottoms out in the lifter before the valve will actually start moving. In other words, you need oil pressure in those things long enough to get them "pumped up" before you're going to notice full lift and duration at the rocker arm. So you might be better off than you think.

 

I called Elgin & they confirmed what I had( a model number from the engine builder), that is why I made this post. I found out what was in there & was just fuming. I know all about the SBC, I've built many just not recently. I know a small lift cam when i see it.

 

If you paid with a credit card I'd do a chargeback to that company that sold you the engine. I recently did this to a Chevy dealership that wouldn't honor their lifetime warranty on a $500 water pump.

 

Under VISA or Mastercard merchant agreement you have 60 days from date of the charge to your card to file a dispute complaint which may result in a chargeback being issued against the merchant.

Nothing gets a stubborn merchant's attention like a threat to file a dispute complaint with your card company.

 

Either way it sure sux. I have been there. I will not pay anyone to build my stuff anymore because of a similar story. I feel your pain.

 

Either way. I cannot take the engine out of it. I physically cannot do the work again. I'd must rather just put another cam in it, or just replace the injectors.

So one of my original questions. I'm sure I cant. But is it at all physically possible to run the 30's in an otherwise stock engine? Should I get some 1.7's( Yet ANOTHER pair of valve covers) or get another cam?
If it was you & you physically had to leave the engine in the car for fear of getting paralized..YES i'm being serious. I have very severe back problems( 10 fractured vertabrate).
What would you do?
I appreciate any & ALL input.

 

Ditch the 30's and replace them with 24# ford injectors. Swap the cam!

 

Call the nearest technical high school and talk to the auto shop teacher and ask his suggestion for a student to pull your engine and rework it under your supervision and for money.

 

Sorry to hear of the swindle. I am a victim of switched out parts also. Oh, excuse me, "substituted" parts.

I am almost positive a bunch of forum members would be willing to go over and pull the engine for you. Put the word out. Forum members can be amazing sometimes! They would probably like steak sandwiches and cold beverages. I know I would do it for you if I were close by.
Mmmm....steak sandwiches.......

 

I agree! I would bet the price of the steak sandwiches that putting the word out for some help, will guarantee a helping hand. Ditto for me, I am a bit to far to do it or I would.

 

I know if I was closer I would help you out with this. Make some posts in your local regional section. I'm sure someone will help you "GET-R-DONE".. Seriously thought there are alot of people out there that will be willing to help you.
-=Rick

 

There is a large Florida contingent in the Southeast Activities forum. They are an active and enthusiastic bunch. Drop in over there, tell your story and I bet things get worked out for you. Good luck!

 

Yeah, i'm going to post there. But decided to just do a cam & rocker arm swap for now.
I was looking at the Lingenfelter #74221, but this is mainly a around town cruiser & wont see massivly high RPM's.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfe...24&pf%5Fid=489
But was wondering if there was anything cheaper out there. I'm more fimilar with the carb cams & not sure of how well they work in a TPI engine.
I'm ALOT more fimilar with the Comp cams 280H & 292H & have had ALOT of sucess with them. But like I said this was on carb's cars that didnt have exceptiona brakes.

I have $1000 to work with & with that I want. A cam kit, Roller rockers, & short headers( that fit factory Ypipe location).

 

Good suggestion - I did this 20 years back ... and I became one of the students!

 

Well last night the Comp XE268H( 12-268-4) Summit 1.6 RR's, Magnum hardened pushrods, guide plates, & cloyes True roller timing chain were ordered. Will be here friday.

 

just a reminder:
check for clearance (push rod to head) when installing 1.6 rockers.
some older heads (not sure about L98 style) will hit where the push rod goes thru the head. Aftermarket heads already have extra clearance there, hopefully you won't have to slot them.
good luck

 

Excellent point for iron head engines.

I had that exact problem when I installed an aftermarket cam - same one that you ordered BTW - and ended up bending half the pushrods. If you do have to pull the heads because of the slots, you can have them angle milled at the same time which will increase compression.

I had mine cut about .100 and because I specified angle milling, the intake didn't have to be cut too and everything bolted right back up.

I had to then pull the heads and have the slots elongated for the needed clearance.

You can flip over to the Parts for Sell board on this Forum and offer to exchange your 30# injectors for 26s. I did this with half a set of Pro Magnum roller rockers and the swap went smoothly. I had eight 1.6s and wanted eight 1.5s and another Forum member had 8 1.5s and wanted 8 1.6s, so we swapped.

I know this involves manual labor that you may not be up to doing, but there is at least one other Port Charlotte member on this Forum. I know because I just bought some tires from him. He may know of someone that can give you a hand; I would if I was near you. We retirees have to stick together.

Keep us posted.

Jake