complete rebuild with compucam 2032, 1.6 roller rockers, new lifters now its time to adjust them with lifters not pumped up what is the proper adjustment ????

 

Here is the method i used last year after my 1.6 install on a motor that had not been running for 2 months. I haven't had to mess with them since. I went 1/2 a turn after zero lash. Snugged the set screw then turned the nut another 1/8 of a turn. I feel for zero lash by rocking the rocker back and forth while finger tightening the lock nut. When i am satisfied that i have removed all lash i set the preload.
Valve Adjustment The Quick Way:
Ok, now to the good stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)
Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!

with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!

If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way.

with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve

Need an explanation?

Well, what you have here is "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.

1 - 6

8 - 5

4 - 7

3 - 2

If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the cam where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. The chart above makes sure you are on the backside of the cam lobe. When the cylinder is at TDC, this is not often the correct location to get the proper lash setting.

 

When the lifters are not pumped up, I prefer to look at the plunger, rather than feeling the tension on the pushrod by spinning them back and forth.

 

the above procedure is absolutely "right" .the "WeT Method" is equally as good...just one small note do not over tighten...once zero valve lash is achieved tighten from 1/8 to 1/2 turn. Comp Gold's RR's wear very quickly if too tight..

 

ok if i look at the plunger do i adj the rocker till the plunger bottoms out ?
i did it this way but just what to make sure its right before i fire it up . it was ez to adj the rockers almost with my fingers till the plunger bottomed out then i looked at the valve to make sure it was not moving ?

 

Once you have the lobe in the proper position, as pointed out. Adjust till the push rod is making contact with the push rod seat/lifter plunger, and no up or down movement can take place, making sure plunger did not go down at all. This is what I call "0" lash. I like to adjust mine at 1/4 turn past zero lash.

 

ok this what i was lookig for

thanks

 

will i be able to push the rockers down when they ere at the adj point & when the lifters are not pumped up i loosed them then and moved pushrod up & down till it stopped with slit drag then did 1/2 turn does this sound right ?

 

Just adjust and take all the slack (up and down movement) out of the push rod, without the plunger going down. Then tighten 1/2 a turn if that's how much you want to use.



Yes the rockers can be pushed down a tiny bit after adjustment because the lifters as you mentioned are not full of oil.

 

heres several methods

http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html
http://www.jimcookperformance.com/T...N7ValvLash.html

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/uhs89720.htm

http://www.boostandfuel.com/support/setting_valves.htm

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/87998/index2.html

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontia...8/valveadj.html

btw if your totally new at this the tappet feeler gauge measures the lash clearance between the valve and rocker on solid lifter cams

I just don,t think adjusting the valves without the oil pressure and the block up to operating temp. is the best way to adjust valves , but yes you can do it just fine with several methods discribed above

how do you adjust valves at idle without the mess of oil getting all over the engine and headers

HIT A FEW YARD SALES, SWAP MEETS UNTILL YOU FIND A DIRT CHEAP SET OF TALL CAST VALVE COVERS LIKE THESE, the CONDITION THEY ARE IN ,WITHIN REASONABLE LIMITS OF COURSE IS NOT THAT IMPORTANT

you simply cut the ribbed center section out of the valve cover, and glue the synthetic valve cover gaskets on them in the normal location,
when you go to adjust the valves you first remove the standard valve covers and install your VALVE ADJUSTMENT COVERS, they retain about 80%-90% of the oil that would normally be lost over the edge of the cylinder head while adjusting a running engine, they also catch much of the splashed oil, just leave a 1/4"-3/8" of the rolled top for strenth around the perimiter of the top surface. I bought my set for $10, they were old and slightly discolored but I could not care less! I took them home and used a drill and saber saw to remove the center ribbed area, theres several brands that are very similar in appearance, all will work! and Ive used them for over 25 years, if I remember correctly they are mickey thompson brand

now if the lifters are hydrolic of course you just back the adjustment nuts off the rocker studs with a wrench, slowly until the rocker JUST starts clicking , then slowly tighten the nut just up to the point that the clicking stops then add 1/4 to 3/8 turn to preload the lifter and move to the next rocker and repeat, the only differance with solid lifters is you use a feeler gauge inserted between the valve tip and rocker after they click slightly,to measure the lash distance recomended on the cam spec. card (normally .016-.028 thousands) and you tighten them just to the point at idle that the clicking stops... then you remove the feeler gauge and move to the next rocker
if your useing jam nuts dont forget to lock the allen key



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retired engineer/engine builder for 40yrs, own 1985-92-96 vettes currently 1957-67-68-76 previously