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hi ,i have a bit of a problem thaT ALMOST CAME FROM NOWHERE ..i have a 84 coupe with engine from 89 (L98)
and its carbed , my prob is that the car can idle for a while in my driveway from cold with no overheating but if i drive it a while it slowly works its way up to about 200 or so n then if i hit traffic i have seen it up as high as 247 (digital gauge) now the car doesnt run bad at that point but the idle get a bit higher the hoter it gets ,outside temp seams not to effect it much . now if i rev the car to like 2500 the temp works its way down back to 200 or so ,i just replaced the water pump last week (autozone pump) and it didnt help much ..sorry for the long story but im just not sure what to do i have noticed posable coolent loss ,it doesn't boil over ,and being carbed it doesnt even run bad it just gets hot at idle its an auto( with a trans cooler) rad is clean and i get good coolant flow the radiator is clean
Last edited by purplevette84; Mar 6, 2005 at 10:58 AM.
Had a few problems with mine climbing up to 130 a few years back. A couple of things you can check. Check to see if the fans clicking on at the right points. Also, look under the car and make sure the air dams/3-piece spoiler is in place -- especially the mid section. Mine was missing and I just replaced the mid-section due to having a front clip; lowered the temp drastically. Also, take the top of the radiator shroud off and make sure nothing (leaves, trash bags, etc.) has gotten up in between the A/C condensor and the radiator. Lastly, check for a small presure leak; I had one caused by my radiator cap.
I'm sure other's might be able to add to the list of things to check, but this should get you started, good luck.
could geting one of the high-doller water pumps be a solution being that when i raise the rpm the temp drops ie. not enough flow from cheep water pump or is this looking like a bad head /head gasket ?
With your carb, you must have a mechanical distributor. If you don't have enough advance at idle speed it'll run hot. After you pull the radiator and clean out between the rad and condensor, check your ignition timing curve.
might wanna check your thermostat as well...if they get stuck open it will heat everything up like that....and i second the timing issue....had it happen to me my headers were glowing pink.. lol
ok air in the cooling system ,chked and im good there , 160 stat is new as of a week ago also tryed the no t-stat idea ..no change ,timing thats a possable idea, it really likes a lot of timing i guess because the holley carb is like a miget with a gas can just pouring it in all the time..thanks for the help guys
If the timing is not the problem, have another look at the stat. Would not be the first time a new one does not work. Just put it in a pot on the stove and bring it to a boil and see if it opens and closes afterwards once you let it cool.
might wanna check your thermostat as well...if they get stuck open it will heat everything up like that
Sorry. That's incorrect. If it is stuck open, it will take a long tome to warm up. Once a thermostat reaches it's open point, it stays open until the coolant cools off and causes it to close. Therefore, a stat that is stuck open acts the same as a stat that has reached operating temperature.
Originally Posted by 86C4EVER
have another look at the stat. Would not be the first time a new one does not work.
See above. If it were stuck closed, or opening late, it would overheat regardless of whether it was at idle or not.
ok air in the cooling system ,chked and im good there , 160 stat is new as of a week ago also tryed the no t-stat idea ..no change ,timing thats a possable idea, it really likes a lot of timing i guess because the holley carb is like a miget with a gas can just pouring it in all the time..thanks for the help guys
How did you go about checking the coolant level?
The engine coolant has to be at a temp that allows the stat to be completely open.
If you need the step by step for the packing procedure I'll post it. Let me know.
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