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ok the new 383 is in and running.I havent got a chip burnt for it yet and maybe thats the whole problem but I am not sure.
anyway I got it idling and drivable but anytime I get above 3000 rpms it falls on its face..it acts like a huge missing problem..I had 24lb injectors in it and i thought maybe I was running out of fuel on the big end but today I put 30 lbers in it and I still have the same problem...this car is driving me crazy...if anyone has any ideas please let me know..
Stock it had 22# injectors, you put in 24# then 30#. The stock cal. is for 22# and you have injectors that flow almost 30% more..in short you are giving it too much fuel, the stock cal is pulsing for 22# injectors but you are flowing 30#. Your eyes should be burning if you get near the exhaust..put a spark plug in the tail pipe and have an afterburner.
You really need to get a chip with the injector constant set to your injector size before troubleshooting beyond the obvious vacuum leaks etc.
going up 2lbs from 22 to 24 won't cause that much problem.
the big question WHO's 24lbs injectors did you use?
The factory chip can deal with 2 lbs. If it didn't it would throw a code, when the O2 sensor(s) puke on the excess fuel.
ok the 24 are blue top ford injectors.they have been in the car since I bought it.I put ford 30s in it...also I do have a ajustable regulator and I ajusted my fuel pressure down to 40 running...I pulled some plugs out and it is running way rich.but would a rich condition cause a dead miss at wot and not at 1-2500 rpms?
also I dont have any vacume leaks that I can find...what sorce of vacume would cause a miss like that at wot?also my timming is advanced to 13* to get it to idle and I also had to turn the set screw up.the cam is kinda big so getting it to idle was a pia..
What is the motor combo? (What, cam, heads, CR?)
If I where you I would stop driving the car imediatly untill you can log some data. If you are running the stock tune and it turns out to be the wrong A/F mixture you can wreck a new motor in a big hurry.
I loaded a $50 mail order tune that was made for my motor and it started and ran perfect but I also loged data from the moment i started the motor to ensure I didn't have an ultra lean condition or a problem with being to rich and washing out the rings.
Data loging will give you all the info you should need to point you in the direction of the problem including all sensor data. TTS datamaster will let you run there program 20 times for free and a cable is $50-100.
What is the motor combo? (What, cam, heads, CR?)
If I where you I would stop driving the car imediatly untill you can log some data. If you are running the stock tune and it turns out to be the wrong A/F mixture you can wreck a new motor in a big hurry.
I loaded a $50 mail order tune that was made for my motor and it started and ran perfect but I also loged data from the moment i started the motor to ensure I didn't have an ultra lean condition or a problem with being to rich and washing out the rings.
Data loging will give you all the info you should need to point you in the direction of the problem including all sensor data. TTS datamaster will let you run there program 20 times for free and a cable is $50-100.
data logging? how exatcly do I go about using tts datamaster and where do I get it from?also where did you get you mail order 50$ tune from?
I am using a comp cam..224/230@.050 502-510 lift and my heads are stock with port work and 202-160 valves...my compression ratio is about 10.2.1
data logging? how exatcly do I go about using tts datamaster and where do I get it from?also where did you get you mail order 50$ tune from?
I am using a comp cam..224/230@.050 502-510 lift and my heads are stock with port work and 202-160 valves...my compression ratio is about 10.2.1
I e-mailed you with all of the information on where to get data master from. I also e-mailed you the name of the tuner I use for e-mail tunes. He has raised the price of the tune I got to $60 ( A mail order bin file) but chips are a bit higher, around $90 I think. You may wantto try contacting some of the TPI guys that do there own tuning such as Scorp to help you out with working on your car since it is a TPI platform rather then a LT1. I hope the info I sent you was helpfull in some way
I e-mailed you with all of the information on where to get data master from. I also e-mailed you the name of the tuner I use for e-mail tunes. He has raised the price of the tune I got to $60 ( A mail order bin file) but chips are a bit higher, around $90 I think. You may wantto try contacting some of the TPI guys that do there own tuning such as Scorp to help you out with working on your car since it is a TPI platform rather then a LT1. I hope the info I sent you was helpfull in some way
it was and I emailed ion so hopefully I will get his figured out.i do apreciate youe help
also if there are any tpi tune guys out there pm me if you can burn a chip.
If you have a 91 speed density car, you need a chip burned right away. Dont even drive it. You can quickly destroy that motor. Speed density cars are very tempermental when it comes to mods. Especially since you have a 383 with a decent cam in there. Get you car to a local tuner asap and get a custom chip.
Do not run that new 383 rich like that, it'll cause some bad problems.. ask me how I know If you have been running it like that for any length of time, you run the risk of destroying the rings. Again, ask me how I know. The previous advice is good. Get it to a quality dyno shop with a wide band asap.
the 30lb injectors will work if you have a good tuner. They are just more than you engine will need. The 24lb injectors are good for up to around 450-500rwhp or more...
well i am going to get it dynoed and tuned soon.theres just nobody good here in okc..i have to get it to tulsa asap..and no I am not going to drive it anymore till I can get the bugs worked out.it is deffinally running way rich and I dont want to destroy my new motor..
also does anyone know what the skinny vacume nipple under the throttle body near the cable side is for?i stuck my finger over it and theres vacume there but I have no line on it..there hasnt been a line on it since i bought this thing..
It will not cause the problems you are describing, at the most it would cause a rough idle and maybe a rich condition at idle...Plugging it off is fine. Thats what I did. That said, you need to park it until you get a custom chip, dont even let it idle. Its so important on speed density cars...