C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

changing my u -joint.....

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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Default changing my u -joint.....

anybody knows where is a post where i can read how to remove the half shaft ?????
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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No idea.

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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Thanks scorp! I was looking for this too!
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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A 1/4" drive 5/16" or 8mm swivel socket on a long extension will make quick work out of turning the strap bolts out once you've broken them loose too.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
A 1/4" drive 5/16" or 8mm swivel socket on a long extension will make quick work out of turning the strap bolts out once you've broken them loose too.
Thanks! I will tear into them tomorrow afternoon since my block didn't come back from machining.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:47 AM
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I just did both of my Half Shafts on my 89 last week. I used Scorp's directions except instead of taking the caster bolt or the mount loose from near the differential, which would have been a lot of work, I simply loosened the caster strut at the wheel assembly. As far as I could see, it did the same thing only a whole lot easier.
The whole job was a piece of cake. I am really glad I did not have it done. The labor at an auto shop calls for about 8 hrs. @ $85.00 an hr.
I did take the half shafts to a driveline shop and had Spicers put in and the shafts balanced.
Good wrenching!
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by scorp508

Now that's funny!!!!


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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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I am about to do my 1/2 shaft U joints as well, and am also using Scorp's guide (thanks Scorp!), and I have a few questions:

Questions:

1) Will a standard 6" vise work for this? Will a 5" vise work?

2) Is removing the caster strut at the wheel a simpler way? Does it have any down sides or precautions?

3) How necessary is it to have the half shafts balanced (I have an 86' with 85K miles on it), and what type of shop does this kind of work?


Thanks!
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Square
I am about to do my 1/2 shaft U joints as well, and am also using Scorp's guide (thanks Scorp!), and I have a few questions:

Questions:

1) Will a standard 6" vise work for this? Will a 5" vise work?

2) Is removing the caster strut at the wheel a simpler way? Does it have any down sides or precautions?

3) How necessary is it to have the half shafts balanced (I have an 86' with 85K miles on it), and what type of shop does this kind of work?


Thanks!

I would like to know that too... should you balance them or should they be fine...
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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I just removed mine. I was able to get an impact gun on mine using a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on a 5/16 socket. I didn't realize I could do that until I was finished with the first side, made the second side go in about 5 minutes instead of 30.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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I asked my mechanic about balancing the half shafts. I specificly asked him if he balanced the half shafts normally as a part of changing U-joints. He said that he does not do that normally, and his shop dosen't do that kind of work, and that I would need to find a driveline shop to do it if I wanted it done.

I am not knocking getting it done, but my car is a daily driver (i.e. no high speed auto X, etc) and so I think I will skip on the balancing until I think it is a problem.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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I've replaced a stupid # of u-joints and have never balanced the shafts. No problemo.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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Just installed my half shafts last night, had a drive line shop put my spicers in to same me some headaches, only $5 a joint.

I ask him about balancing and he said that they don't really spin fast enough to warrent balancing?

I second the use of an air tool with an adapter to make the job go quicker.

One benefit of not removing the caster strut might be that you alignment might be maintained a bit better. I have an autocorss Sunday and I think I'm going to have to get someone to align the rear Saturday. I'm assuming that since I've removed them twice in 12 months for joints and hub that the alignment isn't what it need to be.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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your tires turn at the same speed and need balencing.. so im not to sure about that... and thanks for the link earlier in this thread as im having to change a squeeky u joint in my right half shaft soon
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RED95CONVLUVER
your tires turn at the same speed and need balencing.. so im not to sure about that...
Yes, but the tires also are a much wider diamater than a halfshaft making things more noticeable.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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Agree with Scorp, the distance from the center of rotation causes a much greater effect.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Square
1) Will a standard 6" vise work for this? Will a 5" vise work?
A ball joint press works well. You can borrow one from an auto parts store.

On mine the driveshaft joints came out just with the press and then yanking the cap off, but on the halfshaft joints the cap wouldn't budge so I had to beat them out from the inside.
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To changing my u -joint.....

Old Mar 31, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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Just to let you know, I took the advice of another C4 owner and used a large C clamp to press my u-joints out. Not the easiest way to go, but money was really tight at the time and with another person helping keep it aligned, it went just fine. Sounds really low-tech, but it worked well.
Brad
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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Thanks for all the advice regarding vises/presses, etc.

I asked because I need to get a vise for the shop anyways, and there is a nice fully rotatable 5" vise (rotates horizontally and vertically) I would get if I didn't need the 6th inch to do the U-joints.

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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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If 5" is the maximum opening, that won't be enough. The width of the halfshaft at the joint is 4". Then you need a socket on each side so another 2-3"
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