C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Wheres the difference?

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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 12:24 PM
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Default Wheres the difference?

Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MR.KIDD
Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
The wheel mounting flanges are further outboard on the '88 up C4s. You could swap knuckles and spindles to make them the same.

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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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Swapping all the knuckles and spindles will not fix it provided you could even do it, its the entire suspension geometry that was changed. You may be able to do it for the rear, but I dont see how with the front.

Last edited by vader86; Apr 20, 2005 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MR.KIDD
Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
Originally Posted by vader86
Swapping all the knuckles and spindles will not fix it provided you could even do it, its the entire suspension geometry that was changed. You may be able to do it for the rear, but I dont see how with the front.
I was only addressing the rear, because that is all the question addressed. I have no idea what would have to be done, up front.

The only difference in the rear IS the knuckles and spindles. The tie rods, strut rods and half shafts, are all interchangeable in ALL C4s. Only the ZR1 has wider wheel wells. Check it out.

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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 03:47 PM
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He's not only asking about the rear, hes talking about the entire car. I'm aware that most parts are interchangable for the rears.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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He's talking about replacing wheels with different offsets.

It's much easier and cheaper to use adapters than replacing suspension parts.

There are also more wheels than you think that bolt right up to the 84-87. What kind of wheels do you want to put on?

Spacers are dangerous in my opinion, but I have no issues with using adapters.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
He's talking about replacing wheels with different offsets.

It's much easier and cheaper to use adapters than replacing suspension parts.

There are also more wheels than you think that bolt right up to the 84-87. What kind of wheels do you want to put on?

Spacers are dangerous in my opinion, but I have no issues with using adapters.
I have a set of 2000 C5 wheels and tires and was wondering what it would take to use these without adapters,have any of you used the adapters that Midamerica Corvette sells for 199.00 and have they been used when racing,also is 700.00 a fair price for a set of 2000 C5 rims and tires?
Thanks for all replys
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 12:26 AM
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The c5 wheels will bolt up and fit, but will sit about 1" inboard.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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Ideally, you want 1.25" adapters up front on the 17x8.5 wheels, and 1" adapters in back on the 18x9.5" wheels.

If these wheels are replicas, then you need a 1.25" adapter on all fours. Thinner adapters will cause the replica wheel to interfere with the stock studs. OEM wheels have clearance in the mounting surface, so its not an issue.

As for racing, I don't know.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 12:54 AM
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[QUOTE=CentralCoaster]He's talking about replacing wheels with different offsets.
There are also more wheels than you think that bolt right up to the 84-87. What kind of wheels do you want to put on?





Where are they? I've checked numerous places on the net and in person and can't find any, other than stock, that will fit an '87 16x9.5 with a 38mm offset without an adapter, spacer or whatever. I just purchased new tires about 4 months ago and didn't want to neccessarily do it again, for 17".

Thanks

Last edited by PierEagle; Apr 21, 2005 at 01:03 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Ideally, you want 1.25" adapters up front on the 17x8.5 wheels, and 1" adapters in back on the 18x9.5" wheels.

If these wheels are replicas, then you need a 1.25" adapter on all fours. Thinner adapters will cause the replica wheel to interfere with the stock studs. OEM wheels have clearance in the mounting surface, so its not an issue.

As for racing, I don't know.
The wheels are OEM, are there any adapters out that have those specs? JAIRE2 this is a 85 and you say they will bolt up but be a 1" inboard correct?
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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They bolt up fine, but they'll sit about an 1" inwards, yes.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vader86
They bolt up fine, but they'll sit about an 1" inwards, yes.
Mine is a Z51 will that make any difference?
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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Z51 stock wheels stick out 1/4" more than the base model. (The wheels are different, the car itself is the same.)

1.25" spacers up front, 1" in rear will match the stock z51 specs. But plus or minus a quarter inch won't hurt anything.

1.25 (or 1.2") and 1" adapters are standard sizes. Be sure to specify the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and 12mmx1.5 studs.
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Spacers are dangerous in my opinion, but I have no issues with using adapters.

Interesting.
I have no issues with spacers, but would be leery of adapters....

Larry
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
Interesting.
I have no issues with spacers, but would be leery of adapters....
The way I see it, is adapters are essentially another hub bolted to the hub. So it doubles your chances of snapping a stud. The studs are still loaded in the same exact way.

With spacers, you've now about doubled the stressed area of the stud. That's twice as many thread roots to break, twice as much stretch, twice as much chance of the mounting surface slipping, which would put shear forces on them, or twice the bending force.
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