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Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
The wheel mounting flanges are further outboard on the '88 up C4s. You could swap knuckles and spindles to make them the same.
Swapping all the knuckles and spindles will not fix it provided you could even do it, its the entire suspension geometry that was changed. You may be able to do it for the rear, but I dont see how with the front.
Ok what is the difference that makes the 85-87 not be able to use the newer wheels like 88s and up can use, is the rearend longer and the wheelwells larger what would it take to make the 85 accept the newer wheels (WITHOUT)adapters?
Originally Posted by vader86
Swapping all the knuckles and spindles will not fix it provided you could even do it, its the entire suspension geometry that was changed. You may be able to do it for the rear, but I dont see how with the front.
I was only addressing the rear, because that is all the question addressed. I have no idea what would have to be done, up front.
The only difference in the rear IS the knuckles and spindles. The tie rods, strut rods and half shafts, are all interchangeable in ALL C4s. Only the ZR1 has wider wheel wells. Check it out.
He's talking about replacing wheels with different offsets.
It's much easier and cheaper to use adapters than replacing suspension parts.
There are also more wheels than you think that bolt right up to the 84-87. What kind of wheels do you want to put on?
Spacers are dangerous in my opinion, but I have no issues with using adapters.
I have a set of 2000 C5 wheels and tires and was wondering what it would take to use these without adapters,have any of you used the adapters that Midamerica Corvette sells for 199.00 and have they been used when racing,also is 700.00 a fair price for a set of 2000 C5 rims and tires?
Thanks for all replys
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Ideally, you want 1.25" adapters up front on the 17x8.5 wheels, and 1" adapters in back on the 18x9.5" wheels.
If these wheels are replicas, then you need a 1.25" adapter on all fours. Thinner adapters will cause the replica wheel to interfere with the stock studs. OEM wheels have clearance in the mounting surface, so its not an issue.
[QUOTE=CentralCoaster]He's talking about replacing wheels with different offsets.
There are also more wheels than you think that bolt right up to the 84-87. What kind of wheels do you want to put on?
Where are they? I've checked numerous places on the net and in person and can't find any, other than stock, that will fit an '87 16x9.5 with a 38mm offset without an adapter, spacer or whatever. I just purchased new tires about 4 months ago and didn't want to neccessarily do it again, for 17".
Thanks
Last edited by PierEagle; Apr 21, 2005 at 01:03 AM.
Ideally, you want 1.25" adapters up front on the 17x8.5 wheels, and 1" adapters in back on the 18x9.5" wheels.
If these wheels are replicas, then you need a 1.25" adapter on all fours. Thinner adapters will cause the replica wheel to interfere with the stock studs. OEM wheels have clearance in the mounting surface, so its not an issue.
As for racing, I don't know.
The wheels are OEM, are there any adapters out that have those specs? JAIRE2 this is a 85 and you say they will bolt up but be a 1" inboard correct?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by rocco16
Interesting.
I have no issues with spacers, but would be leery of adapters....
The way I see it, is adapters are essentially another hub bolted to the hub. So it doubles your chances of snapping a stud. The studs are still loaded in the same exact way.
With spacers, you've now about doubled the stressed area of the stud. That's twice as many thread roots to break, twice as much stretch, twice as much chance of the mounting surface slipping, which would put shear forces on them, or twice the bending force.