AKS any comments on 722rwhp being the most the block can handle? lol

 

I always thought the D1X was bigger than the D1R. My procharger experience is super limited so I'm probably wrong. I owned a d1r kit that I never ended up installing. I ended up just going from an s trim to a t trim on my mustang.

 

I am running plumbing from greg carroll with alcy injection and a mondo BOV. No intercoolers very little plumbing. I have pictured of the moter if some one could assist me in how to post them.

No offense about the LOL on the 722 and the block handling it, but these guys build funny car, sprint car rally car,and anything else the is HUGE HP for some of the biggest names in the business, so excuse me if I take their word for it, look them up they know there stuff. Tracy Dennis at Sunset Racecraft.

 

No problem fitting under the hood, and uses procharger bracket for the D1 series I believe.

 

2FAST
Still waiting to see the pics.

Quiketz,
The D1X is exactly the same diameter volute (9.75") and the same tranny (4.44:1) as the D-1R. The D1R has a different design impellor. According to ATI, they quit producing the D1X back in 2000 as it was a rather old design, but some remained on the shelf for some time after. The D1R with the redesigned impellor, was actually an upgrade from the D1R, though not by much (1850 CFM vs 2000 CFM). The D1X and the D2X left production at the same time.

The D1R will bolt to the D1 bracket, but when attached will not bolt to the head (due to interference on the valve cover). Either the bracket has to be modified (add ~1" on to the cylinder head end), or a new bracket built. When I build the brackets for the D1R, I make them pick up 7 pts on the head unit and 7 pts on the engine vs a normal D1 bracket pulling 5 points on the head unit and 3 points on the cylinder head. I also make it clear the factory valve covers with a 1/2 spacer to allow shaft rockers (sleeper?). Additionally, the bracket allows significantly better "wrap" on the smaller pulleys (I run a 3.4" which is the next step down from a 3.8", 4.1", 4.3" variants). Also, the hood has to be clearanced to fit the R series (along with relocation of the hood prop rod), and don't let anyone tell you differently.

Keith,
As for HP handling, I can speak from experience in that the factory L-98 block when properly prepped can handle SIGNIFICANT punishment. I run a 2-bolt main factory block in my street car with splayed main caps, and ~40% block filler. I have had no problems with the mains walking, and I have abused this car (just a bit). It has been running in this manner (a bit beyond the 720RWHP range) for almost 4 years.

BTW, a bowtie / rocket block will handle whatever the factory block can not when you go past a 4" stroke. Though I will say that I am bound and determined to try to fit a 4.125" stroke crank in a factory block at some time in the future, just because people say a 4" stroke can't be done in a factory L-98 block. And no, you won't hit water if you do it correctly (hint: Oliver billets, and seriously liteweight crank with a bit of Mallory metal).

As a side note, the D2R has been discontinued effective 6/'04, making the next logical step be a D3R (hmmm 3400CFM???). Do you think that would fit. I'm sure again ATI would say no.

Aaron

 

I did have to clearence the hood just a bit on the discharge side, but not alot. hood prop was already on the pasanger side so no big deal there. I did not have to modify the valve covers or the bracet other than the mod that was done to it to give less belt slip. but that had nothing to do with mounting. What PSI are you seeing with you pulley, I am at 20psi at 5800 and that in my mind is to much. no intercooler and very little plumbing with a 3.5 pulley and the seem excessive to me. I have all of your mentioned mods but the block fill. Is it really worth all of the trouble, and does it affect cooling at all. Thanks for the advise.

 

2Fast,
I see considerably less than 15 psi with the large IC, but I can hit right at 15 psi (14.6) with a straight pipe installed. I run at max impellor speed at redline. I am however making a new IC that I should have pics of later this evening. This will be the largest (5.5" core) purpose built C4 IC that I have seen to date. With the block fill, I still run in the 170-195°F range in TX heat. I am not sure if I would pull a motor apart to do the block fill. What radiator are you running? Do you still have the AC core out front?

I think I am running a bit more cam / heads / intake than you may be running, which would result in the lower boost readings.

I am still interested to see the pics. I would sure like to see that car in person. It would be interesting to compare notes (if nothing else with the person that tuned it). What IATs are you seeing at the end of a full run?

What have you done to the driveline? Based on what you have spoken of for RWHP, you should be able to easily dip into the 9s, if you can hook it up. I just keep adding HP and have kind of accepted the fact that high 1.7s are about the best a street driven, convertible C4, with large HP will deliver.

Aaron

 

Since you have a straight intake, the psi is being caused by something else. Most likely your intake, heads, or cam is keeping the air in the intake system. The actual cylinder pressure is probably similar to or less than AKS's.
My theory: Your heads and intake don't flow as well as AKS's, therefore you have more measured pressure in the intake, but less total air flow.

 

mail me the pics and I'll host them for you