Camshaft Install
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
I am running CNC Cylinder Heads heads with 2.0I and 1.57e valves. Also running stock pistons. I bought the camshaft from Pete at CNC, and he says that with the duration of this camshaft, there will be no problems with piston to valve contact. Pete seems to think that duration causes a bigger concern of piston to valve contact than lift.
Zix, what was the duration of that camshaft?
I guess we will see this weekend, when I get time to finish this project.
Zix, what was the duration of that camshaft?
I guess we will see this weekend, when I get time to finish this project.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by ninetyfivevette
What springs are you using with that cam?
Last edited by STL94LT1; Jun 1, 2005 at 09:33 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
I ran the CNC double REV valvesprings and they didn't cut the mustard on my GM 847...valve float at 6200 rpm.
Added Comp Cams new beehives (26918's) and no issues to 6800 rpm.
New technology that I've sold on.
Something to think about...
Added Comp Cams new beehives (26918's) and no issues to 6800 rpm.
New technology that I've sold on.
Something to think about...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7,411
Likes: 253
From: Little Elm TX
Originally Posted by No Go
I ran the CNC double REV valvesprings and they didn't cut the mustard on my GM 847...valve float at 6200 rpm.
Added Comp Cams new beehives (26918's) and no issues to 6800 rpm.
New technology that I've sold on.
Something to think about...
Added Comp Cams new beehives (26918's) and no issues to 6800 rpm.
New technology that I've sold on.
Something to think about...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 6
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I am running CNC Cylinder Heads heads with 2.0I and 1.57e valves. Also running stock pistons. I bought the camshaft from Pete at CNC, and he says that with the duration of this camshaft, there will be no problems with piston to valve contact. Pete seems to think that duration causes a bigger concern of piston to valve contact than lift.
Zix, what was the duration of that camshaft?
I guess we will see this weekend, when I get time to finish this project.
Zix, what was the duration of that camshaft?
I guess we will see this weekend, when I get time to finish this project.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by R94 LT 1
I believe those new "beehives" are the ones I'm going to have put on my heads. I take it you're pretty happy with them?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 6
From: Phoenix AZ
I was running .575/.595" lift. The only real problem was that the valves were too big to fit into the stock piston reliefs. I actually ran the engine like this for about 5000 miles...never even knew it was happening until I took the heads off and saw the marks on the pistons. I'll take some pics of them late tonight...I don't have them here in front of me. 
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Affirmative.
They are little on the costly side initially with the special retainers and seats, but I no longer have any issues. Admittedly, I also have a AFR Hydra Rev, but I honestly don't think it adds significantly...more of a little buffer before valve float.
The dyno was stopped at 6800 rpm as that was the goal. Later I regret not taking it to 7000 or even 7200 to see where valve float does indeed occur if at all. Adds more flexibility on the road course/autocrosses. An inreality it was dirt cheap as I would have paid more to rid the engine of a valve float issue that was lower than the stock redline!
Another thing it fixed was the valve seal to spring distance. My double springs were extremely tight to the seal...some seals were dislodged and destroyed, others had their sides polished. Just not a good deal for longevity...this was within 10,000 miles or less.
Besides my experience, there is quite of few magazine tests...Hot Rod, Muscle Mustangs, etc that have nothing bad to say about them...usually they gain 500-1000 rpm before 'valve crash'. I know they are mags, but David Vizard wrote a few of them and he tells it like it is typically.
They are little on the costly side initially with the special retainers and seats, but I no longer have any issues. Admittedly, I also have a AFR Hydra Rev, but I honestly don't think it adds significantly...more of a little buffer before valve float.
The dyno was stopped at 6800 rpm as that was the goal. Later I regret not taking it to 7000 or even 7200 to see where valve float does indeed occur if at all. Adds more flexibility on the road course/autocrosses. An inreality it was dirt cheap as I would have paid more to rid the engine of a valve float issue that was lower than the stock redline!
Another thing it fixed was the valve seal to spring distance. My double springs were extremely tight to the seal...some seals were dislodged and destroyed, others had their sides polished. Just not a good deal for longevity...this was within 10,000 miles or less.
Besides my experience, there is quite of few magazine tests...Hot Rod, Muscle Mustangs, etc that have nothing bad to say about them...usually they gain 500-1000 rpm before 'valve crash'. I know they are mags, but David Vizard wrote a few of them and he tells it like it is typically.
Originally Posted by R94 LT 1
I believe those new "beehives" are the ones I'm going to have put on my heads. I take it you're pretty happy with them?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7,411
Likes: 253
From: Little Elm TX
Originally Posted by No Go
Affirmative.
They are little on the costly side initially with the special retainers and seats, but I no longer have any issues. Admittedly, I also have a AFR Hydra Rev, but I honestly don't think it adds significantly...more of a little buffer before valve float.
The dyno was stopped at 6800 rpm as that was the goal. Later I regret not taking it to 7000 or even 7200 to see where valve float does indeed occur if at all. Adds more flexibility on the road course/autocrosses. An inreality it was dirt cheap as I would have paid more to rid the engine of a valve float issue that was lower than the stock redline!
Another thing it fixed was the valve seal to spring distance. My double springs were extremely tight to the seal...some seals were dislodged and destroyed, others had their sides polished. Just not a good deal for longevity...this was within 10,000 miles or less.
Besides my experience, there is quite of few magazine tests...Hot Rod, Muscle Mustangs, etc that have nothing bad to say about them...usually they gain 500-1000 rpm before 'valve crash'. I know they are mags, but David Vizard wrote a few of them and he tells it like it is typically.
They are little on the costly side initially with the special retainers and seats, but I no longer have any issues. Admittedly, I also have a AFR Hydra Rev, but I honestly don't think it adds significantly...more of a little buffer before valve float.
The dyno was stopped at 6800 rpm as that was the goal. Later I regret not taking it to 7000 or even 7200 to see where valve float does indeed occur if at all. Adds more flexibility on the road course/autocrosses. An inreality it was dirt cheap as I would have paid more to rid the engine of a valve float issue that was lower than the stock redline!
Another thing it fixed was the valve seal to spring distance. My double springs were extremely tight to the seal...some seals were dislodged and destroyed, others had their sides polished. Just not a good deal for longevity...this was within 10,000 miles or less.
Besides my experience, there is quite of few magazine tests...Hot Rod, Muscle Mustangs, etc that have nothing bad to say about them...usually they gain 500-1000 rpm before 'valve crash'. I know they are mags, but David Vizard wrote a few of them and he tells it like it is typically.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Well, I tried to start the car this afternoon. But, all it would do is sputter, smoke, and die. 
Looks like I installed the opti wrong. Seems like it just slid into place, I can't believe it would be that easy to install the 95/96 opti incorrectly.
Before I tear this thing back apart, any other ideas of what might be the problem?
-Mike
Looks like I installed the opti wrong. Seems like it just slid into place, I can't believe it would be that easy to install the 95/96 opti incorrectly.Before I tear this thing back apart, any other ideas of what might be the problem?
-Mike
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,263
Likes: 86
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by TBH94
Rockers adjusted too tight? My car acted similar when I made that mistake.
Seems like it is a timing issue, opti, wires, ect.
