Question on superram install...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Question on superram install...
For you guys that have installed them, the upper runner bolts provided by LPE are 12-pt flange bolts, right?
I've been told these are a bitch to get to, so.... is there another type of bolt or socket attachment that would make this job easier? I'm putting together intake bolt kits, and want to know if there's something else I should be adding to this kit. I've never seen a superram up close.
Would allen head bolts be easier to work with? those bolts behind the runners don't look like much fun.
I've been told these are a bitch to get to, so.... is there another type of bolt or socket attachment that would make this job easier? I'm putting together intake bolt kits, and want to know if there's something else I should be adding to this kit. I've never seen a superram up close.
Would allen head bolts be easier to work with? those bolts behind the runners don't look like much fun.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,870
Likes: 25
From: Long Island, NY
If it is your first time installing a Superram, get ready for a long day.
It is alot of work.
Most people will slot the bolts and use a screw driver to pull the bolts from the top. Don't tighten any of the bolts until you have them all started.
I have used 12 point sockets and box wrenches to do the install.
Vic
It is alot of work.
Most people will slot the bolts and use a screw driver to pull the bolts from the top. Don't tighten any of the bolts until you have them all started.
I have used 12 point sockets and box wrenches to do the install.
Vic
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie MD
Sears makes 12-point ratchet wrenches; with one of these, it's less of a nightmare and more of a tedious job. I wound up having the runners tapped and ran the center bolts down from the top (ie, from inside the plenum). I also had to replace the right-front outside bolt with a normal philips-head bolt because I couldn't get any wrench in there (but my right-angle screwdriver worked fine).
If you're trying to make life easier for a SR install/uninstall, see if you can come up with a lower runner/manifold bolt that doesn't require pulling rocker arms to get to...
[RICHR]
If you're trying to make life easier for a SR install/uninstall, see if you can come up with a lower runner/manifold bolt that doesn't require pulling rocker arms to get to...
[RICHR]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley Calif.
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
To answer your question Kevin, I don't really think there's any good substitution for you to consider. As the others have mentioned, it's better for the individual to modify his own setup one way or the other which doesn't give you one clear option when you put these kits together.
BTW, thanks for thinking of the other guys in doing this.......that's really cool of you!
BTW, thanks for thinking of the other guys in doing this.......that's really cool of you!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Rolla Mo
I used a six point bolt on mine. Allen heads will be a real issue even with ball drivers. That is why I used the six point. I would say whichever is easier or cheaper to get. Six point was all I could find locally. By the way did you get my payment on the kit, I paypaled you last night.
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks,
Doug
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati Oh
for the runner-to-plenum bolts, I went to sears and bought the longest 12-pt closed end wrench I could find. the ends of my bolts were already slotted for a small screwdriver so I run them up snug with that and then a few turns with the long wrench and it was no big deal. The hardest part is becoming patient and, of course, not stripping out the aluminum threads.
for the runner-to-base bolts that are conveniently located in front of rocker arms - I again went to sears and found the longest allen wrench I could find. I heated it and bent it into a pickle shape until it fits perfectly into place and above my roller rockers. I then use some plyers by grabbing the short end of the "L" on the hex wrench for leverage and tightening them up that way. It's a mite tedious but sure beats pulling four rocker arms.
Also, I think having the inner four (two on each side) runner-to-plenum bolts tapped to be screwed in from the top (inside the plenum) would be a smart choice in retrospect - just use plenty of locktite.... lol.
the only part of the superram I abhore now is the base - and that's because it never fully seats on my aftermarket heads. I think the seller must have had it shaved or something and ruined the alignment without telling me. I've always needed thicker gaskets....
for the runner-to-base bolts that are conveniently located in front of rocker arms - I again went to sears and found the longest allen wrench I could find. I heated it and bent it into a pickle shape until it fits perfectly into place and above my roller rockers. I then use some plyers by grabbing the short end of the "L" on the hex wrench for leverage and tightening them up that way. It's a mite tedious but sure beats pulling four rocker arms.
Also, I think having the inner four (two on each side) runner-to-plenum bolts tapped to be screwed in from the top (inside the plenum) would be a smart choice in retrospect - just use plenty of locktite.... lol.
the only part of the superram I abhore now is the base - and that's because it never fully seats on my aftermarket heads. I think the seller must have had it shaved or something and ruined the alignment without telling me. I've always needed thicker gaskets....
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,218
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From: Rolla Mo
Originally Posted by 2manyfuncars
The best thing to do is put aircraft floating thread inserts on the bottom of the runners and spot face the plenum for stat-o seals. It makes a huge difference, but it takes some time.
I would love to see a better way of doing the runner to plenum. I still think they should have had long bolts go through the lid and into the runners. If you are taking off the lid you probably need to take the plenum off too. Anyway..
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
The only reason for not going in from the top, is to keep loose parts from sucking into the intake.. Nothing a little safety wire wouldnt solve though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati Oh
Originally Posted by rrubel
I like your idea about the runner/base bolt tool. Any chance of a picture? I can't quite imagine the shape.
Lock-tite red on the inside bolts!
[RICHR]
Lock-tite red on the inside bolts!
[RICHR]
Well I can't host a picture, but maybe I'll take one with my camera phone and email it to you. But it's a simple design: Take an allen wrench (which is shaped like an "L") and orientate it so the short part (the base of the L) is sticking straight up and mount it in a vise. HEAT the long part of the L about 1.5 inches from the end and then gently bend it to around 15-20 degrees, again you want the pickle shape to be somewhat tapered to match the radius of the runners, while keeping the base of the L straight up.
This gives you the most clearance over rocker arms for turning the tool with a pair of plyers. I just made a couple of small bends and did some trial-fitting to get it just right.
IM me your email and I'll shoot you a visual tonight.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Do you at least have line of sight to the lower bolts? Would a 6" ball end allen driver work, or would it be better to have a shorter one that you could get a ujoint on the end of?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley Calif.
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Here are a couple pics showing the threaded bolt holes inside the plenum, and the location of the bolt holes on the runners. As you can see, the only ones that present a problem are the two inboard center ones on each side. All the others are readily accessible because they're on the sides and ends. I started the 4 tough ones first, then worked my way around to get the others started too. Once started, then you just draw them up from the inside with slots in the screws. You only need to snug them to torque and use a judicious amount of the right stuff to seal vacuum.
Here's a pic of the intake on the motor illustrating how tuff they are to get to:
Here's a pic of the intake on the motor illustrating how tuff they are to get to:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Rolla Mo
I couldn't even get a wrench on those to torque them! My injectors were in the way. I used some threadlock on the bolts and coppersealed the crap out of that area. Worked for me. I would love a picture of how to get a wrench on them. It would be very helpful for when I put mine back on.
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks,
Doug
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 993
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie MD
Caboboy, nice engine... the red wires really complement the black covers.
I had the inner pass. front and driver rear also tapped from the inside; I couldn't get access around the throttle body and distributor cap. With all the room we have to work under the hood, there's so much CRAP in the way sometimes.
[RICHR]
I had the inner pass. front and driver rear also tapped from the inside; I couldn't get access around the throttle body and distributor cap. With all the room we have to work under the hood, there's so much CRAP in the way sometimes.
[RICHR]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley Calif.
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Thanks Rich Did you have enough clearance against the sides inside the plenum? I'm going to need to pull mine to install bigger injectors ( don't ask 
) 
, and I think I'm gonna run as many down from the top as I can
Edit: I'm thinking about tigging (migging?) a nut on the underside of the runners instead of threading them to get some more thread depth.
Did you have enough clearance against the sides inside the plenum? I'm going to need to pull mine to install bigger injectors ( don't ask ) , and I think I'm gonna run as many down from the top as I can Edit: I'm thinking about tigging (migging?) a nut on the underside of the runners instead of threading them to get some more thread depth.
Last edited by Caboboy; Jul 17, 2005 at 11:32 PM.