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On average during the summer here in Phoenix the concrete is about 135 to 145 degrees and asphalt is 175 degrees, I myself never touch anything outside usually because you get burned very easily.
Most coolant systems in vehicles here in Phoenix are worked to the limits. My previous LT1 motor said knock knock then bye bye, during such time my stock stat and stock radiator were installed in the car. I saw temps in the 255 range and oil temps in the 255 to 260. This was right before I could install a new all aluminum Radiator in the car, so basiclly I learned my lesson. Compound the fact that we get crappy 91 octane the results are knocking engines, this is a fact. Chad
Some people haven't been here through all 600 billion discussions of this.
The problem is that you cant, because the same naysayers come in every time and convince the newbies that the 160 is the root of all evil in the world and that using it will obliterate your engine.
Even if the search function is acting up, it still finds several of these threads in the archives, I fail to see why anyone CANT seem to use the damn thing.
The problem is that you cant, because the same naysayers come in every time and convince the newbies that the 160 is the root of all evil in the world and that using it will obliterate your engine.
Even if the search function is acting up, it still finds several of these threads in the archives, I fail to see why anyone CANT seem to use the damn thing.
And that is going to lead to premature engine failure. The metals just won't like it.
165* engine operation temps are just entirely too low. You may be reaching closed loop, but the oil can't reach temperature.
All I can suggest is replace the 160* stat with 180* and the engine will love you for it.
180 stock thermo goes in mine. I like keeping the coolant temp around 195 - 200, oil around 210. This should help keep the contaminants out of the oil.
It is the "LONGER" where problems can start. The race track is one thing, even if .20 seconds is difficult to imagine, but it is the street where "LONGER" becomes a liability. Many trips are too short to warm up the engine with a stock stat. A cooler stat, which does not "make" the engine run cooler, prolongs the warm up time, or in some instances, may prevent it.
RACE ON!!!
believe me CFI I dont have to worry about preventing warm up in this daily 98+ humid FL heatprobably within 3 minutes of driving,the car is already at operating temperature.like I said,every car is not going to run the exact same temperatures,condition of waterpumps,radiators,mods to the engine,whatever are all going to have an effect.Ive had 160 thermostats in all 11 of my cars(6 vettes 5 F-bods)with never a engine related problem,and only 1(the 85)ran to cool during the winter.