My '85 just reached 140k and smokes on start up and when driving so I'm now looking to rebuild the L98. I was thinking about changing the intake to a ram jet/stealth ram style but I need some advice on which one would be best for a daily driver that relies on 22-25 mpg. I'm also planning to get some new, but afordable, cast iron heads, a forged rebuild kit and a slightly more aggressive cam. I'd like to get the hardware to tune the ECM to run the new intake too. Anyone with advice or part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok here is what I would do and probably similar to many other's advice (especially the intake part)

-Intake-
Stealth ram is a great manifold, however it doesn't clear the stock hood.
Accel SuperRam is pretty much the manifold of choice around here. It can be had for ~750$ used. Just keep an eye out for one, or if you want a new one look up TJWong on the forum. He is an extremely reputable tuner and shop owner who I believe sells the SR.

-Internals
Check out cnc-motorsports.com. Supposedly good stuff and good prices. See thread here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...nc&forum_id=48
Just remember depending on what you are going for you might not need forged everything. Then again, it doesn't it really hurt too much either.

-Dyno Tune is more accurate and as mentioned TJWong seems to be pretty darn good at it! If you are going to get an online tune, Alvin at PCMsForLess is definitly the way to go. Just ask bradvette.... :-D

-Cam, if you go with the SR you could go LPE 219 camshaft..its a proven performer

-Block, if I could do it again I would get a roller block just so you don't have to fork over 300-500$ for retro rollers and it leaves your cam choices all open

-Heads: I would recommend Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 200cc (for 383, for 350 depending on intake and cam choice maybe the 180s maybe the 200s, I believe Dart's 200 are pretty equivalent in volume to the AFR 195s which a lot of guys running SR/219 combos run on their 350s) for you if you really wanted iron. For just a few pennies more you can have the AL Dart Pro1s, but I do believe the Platinum might just be a iron Pro1 casting, it seems their flow numbers are pretty equivalent.

Anyway, theres some info to make the decision more difficult. I need to go get back to work on my 383 drop in.

 

wow, thanks for the info, I'm looking up this stuff now. Here's what I want from this: 250+ hp with good gas mileage. I've never raced my vette so I'm looking for a little bit of power with a lot of realiability and matained driveability. Has anyone bought a engine kit from P.A.W.? I'd like to here from some positive buy's before I invest anything. thanks

 

Alright, here's one I'll need help on. I just come across a four bolt main, '79 350. It came from a cheyenne. I bought this block, which had a bad head gasket and needs to be bored, from a kid my age for $50. I needed to know If there is any significant difference in this block, which will be bored .030 over . I'm going to use new heads and a ported tpi intake, all which to save downtime. All the internals will be brand new as well. Is there anything I should lookout for? thanks

 

I'm looking at 3 different crank/piston/rods kits now for 4.030 bore and 3.75 stroke (383) but whats the difference between a stroker and a non-stroker kit? any help would be great.

 

[QUOTE=skyler_lloyd] Here's what I want from this: 250+ hp with good gas mileage. /QUOTE]

That can be done, I'm sure just going to a stock tpi setup can achieve your goal. Depending on the price of parts I would also look at other options. Machining a used block and buying all the parts/labor might end up being more dollars than buying a complete shortblock. Check these guys out look at crate engines and the GM perf.parts
http://www.sdpc2000.com/

 

Max port your runners, then buy a TPIS intake base
OR buy some ASM runners then buy a TPIS intake base
Or get a Superram w/TPIPS intake base
Buy a set of Edelbrock heads 180CC?
Buy a 219 Cam
Add some headers
Use your factory forged pistons, factory crank & rods., you wont be stressing the crank at high RPMS, yuo peak will be below 6k RPM,

Ideally, I would upgrade to a 383,
Buy a Superram with 219 cam
Buy new Heads
Buy Headers
Buy a 52MM TB

 

I'd have that block cleaned, magged and pressure tested before i did anything else to it. If it checked out ok, i'd add decking it to the list of machine work, given the head gasket story. You don't want to find out it's cracked or has a warped deck after you got it together.

 

You don't need forged, anything. You don't need to buy a crankshaft or rods. Your crank is more than up to the task and the rods you have are already forged. The ONLY reason to buy rods, is if reconditioned rods are less expensive than having yours reconditioned. The 1979 4 bolt block is attractive and a buy for $50.00, but you don't really have any use for it. For your goals, the biggest advantage that block could provide, is if it helps reduce the down time of the car. Save that block for a later, more ambitious, project. Keep the compression ratio close to 10.0:1 and use a mild cam. You will easily exceed your goals.

RACE ON!!!

 

See my sig for what I did.

I used the Lingenfelter 213 cam which doesn't require a roller conversion kit. It is a repackaged Crane BlueRacer Cam.

Here's the spec card

Here's where to buy it direct

I used forged trw speed pro pistons and the stock rods and crankshaft and made a 355.


Buy this book by John Lingenfelter

 

I think I'll get that book, thanks. Downtime is somewhat an issue here because my other means of transportation is motorcycle and It's getting cooler and cooler in the morning time. Anyway, has anyone at all bought from p.a.w.? I got one of there huge catalogs and the prices are really good for some kit's they have. I wanted to go forged because I have a nitrous kit and I thought of building a reliable n/a motor that can use a boost on rare occasions.