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Well finally got the 96 up to corvette mike this morning. Having a problem with the car not being able to get more positive camber than -.7 degrees. Also there is play in the wheel when it was jacked up. Mechanic there is diagnosing the problem as a rt. diff. yoke worn. At the moment he says doesn't appear that there is any bearing damage in the diff., but said wouldn't know until he opened it up. Being quoted a little over 1000.00 to change the yoke and crosshaft, then a little over 2000.00 if a diff. rebuild is needed as well. First off does this sound right? Said it would be about 10hrs. labor to change yoke and crosshaft.
Next questions is would a rear end swap fix this problem? Is this a sensible fix if so?
What would be the possible consequences if I held off on this fix for a while?
Thanks steve,
If I were to look to swap rear ends (rebuilt one) and put in the new yoke, how long do you think the install would take? Unfortunately I don't have the skill or knowledge to do it myself, so I would have to have it installed.
I can swap out a rear "pig" in about 4 hrs from start to finish. I have done it about 5 or 6 times. I do not know what book time is. Most mechanics look up the book time and multiply it by their hourly rate. You should be able to be given a fair, accurate quote before the job begins.
If I were to look to swap rear ends (rebuilt one) and put in the new yoke, how long do you think the install would take? Unfortunately I don't have the skill or knowledge to do it myself, so I would have to have it installed.
R/R the rear is not a skilled job at all. If you have moderate mechanical aptitude you can do it. Especially if you bought an entire rear suspension, then you could just drop yours and put the other one in. Any knowlege required you can get from the Helms manual and this board.
I'd ask a chevy dealer if you want the "offical" time estimate.
Your profile says 96 LT1 so I am assuming you have a D36. Good D36s can be found for a couple of hundred bucks.
For the kind of money those guys are asking you could get one of the custom heavy duty rear ends.
The install or swap is pretty simple, notice I said simple not easy. Check this link
Good luck.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Aug 19, 2005 at 07:04 PM.
Yes, 96 lt1 auto stock d36 3.07. I would not feel comfortable testing out my ability on my car so I have to find a service person. I don't plan on modding the c4 for some time if ever, so no need to go to a heavy duty rear.
I guess the big thing is if I am going to have to have the right diff yoke changed (and they are saying the crosshaft also needs to be replaced) if I should just be getting the rear changed at the same time. They said it may or may not have to be repaired depending on if there is damage, but if I can get a new rear for a few hundred bucks, better to play it safe and just change it. I guess my question is how much more of a job is it to change the rear if they already are changing the yoke and what not?
I'll check with Chevy about what they have as book time for the job. I am just curious as to what in your opinions the job could be done in. That way I have an idea if what they are quoting me time wise is reasonable or a scam.
I guess the only other question I have is, would a worn yoke cause the problem I am having with the camber? Camber is not going more positive than -.7 degrees.
The parts in question do not normally wear. If they truly are worn, the rear was possibly run low on fluid, possibly for quite some time. This, to me, suggests a total rebuild or swap to a reman or quality used piece.
It would be less labor for them to swap the diff or the entire rear end compared to replacing the yoke+probably other parts in the diff.
Thanks,
That is what I was really wondering because it is not the parts that are expensive, it's the labor. Being that they are telling me they won't know if there is diff. damage until they tear everything apart, chances are they will find something . Since a new rear diff. is only a few hundred bucks, my thought was might as well just change it. Well, going to be checking with another shop next week, if they diagnose the problem as the same thing, going to run price options with them.
While you are doing it you should consider upgrading the gears, especially if you currently have the 2.59 rear end.
If you buy a unit from a junkyard or this forum, a 3.07 rear might cost $100 more than a 2.59.
If you go with a rebuild, getting 3.54 gears would be about $300 more than just the rebuild.
Changing the rear gears is one of the best bang-for-buck improvements in these cars, and since you are getting a diff anyway, the incremental cost for the gear change is very small.
Well finally got the 96 up to corvette mike this morning. Having a problem with the car not being able to get more positive camber than -.7 degrees. Also there is play in the wheel when it was jacked up. Mechanic there is diagnosing the problem as a rt. diff. yoke worn. At the moment he says doesn't appear that there is any bearing damage in the diff., but said wouldn't know until he opened it up. Being quoted a little over 1000.00 to change the yoke and crosshaft, then a little over 2000.00 if a diff. rebuild is needed as well. First off does this sound right? Said it would be about 10hrs. labor to change yoke and crosshaft.
Next questions is would a rear end swap fix this problem? Is this a sensible fix if so?
What would be the possible consequences if I held off on this fix for a while?
Thanks in advance.
Joe
My first guess is that it is the wheel bearing that is worn, not the differential yoke. The wheel bearings are under designed and can wear at relatively low miles if driven hard. Wheel bearing replacement is much cheaper than a differential!
While you are doing it you should consider upgrading the gears, especially if you currently have the 2.59 rear end.
If you buy a unit from a junkyard or this forum, a 3.07 rear might cost $100 more than a 2.59.
If you go with a rebuild, getting 3.54 gears would be about $300 more than just the rebuild.
Changing the rear gears is one of the best bang-for-buck improvements in these cars, and since you are getting a diff anyway, the incremental cost for the gear change is very small.
I have z51, so I already have 3.07. Love it. thanks for the recommendation, drove a 2.56 auto the other week. Made me really love the 3.07. I wouldn't want to go higher because I commute in the Vette often. Commute speed's are around 100-125 so rpm's are high enough as is.
My first guess is that it is the wheel bearing that is worn, not the differential yoke. The wheel bearings are under designed and can wear at relatively low miles if driven hard. Wheel bearing replacement is much cheaper than a differential!
Thanks for the additional info. Can you see if the differential yoke is worn by just jacking the car up and looking under? That is all the mechanic at corvette mike did. Going to go get a second opinion on the wheel problem at another shop once the car gets out of the body/paint shop and see what they say. If it is just the bearing, that would be great
Thanks
Thanks for the additional info. Can you see if the differential yoke is worn by just jacking the car up and looking under? That is all the mechanic at corvette mike did. Going to go get a second opinion on the wheel problem at another shop once the car gets out of the body/paint shop and see what they say. If it is just the bearing, that would be great
Thanks
Yes, iF you jack up the rear, and have someone try to wiggle the wheel from + to - camber, back and forth ... If you can see the yoke moving in and out of the housing any significant amount (more than 1/16 inch), then there is a problem. Although it's usually not a case of it being worn ... If there is to much play, it is just a matter of swapping in thicker axle retention snap rings to limit the play.
Yes, iF you jack up the rear, and have someone try to wiggle the wheel from + to - camber, back and forth ... If you can see the yoke moving in and out of the housing any significant amount (more than 1/16 inch), then there is a problem. Although it's usually not a case of it being worn ... If there is to much play, it is just a matter of swapping in thicker axle retention snap rings to limit the play.
Thanks for the additional info. Will further explore that, swapping thicker axle retention snap rings sounds a lot better than new rear end. Nice to have an idea what is going on back there so I am no longer clueless when I talk to the mechanic.