Tried doing a search on this and nada...

I'll be receiving my Accel Superram runners and plenum next week (SR manifold already installed) and have read about people who have had problems with leaks. What tips do you have to avoid these problems, or any others that have happened with this set-up?

 

i didnt have the super ram, but i did have the edelbrock large mouth base intake and runners. when the mechanic put my intake on it was leaking oil from the back. my mechanic sucked and i dont think he torqued the bolts in the proper order. make sure you torque them in the proper order or the bottom part of the manifold might not seat properly. once i did this then the leak stopped. good luck!

 

The manifold was carefully torqued in the correct sequence, according to the shop manual, so I'm hoping it will be fine. Thanks for responding on this!

 

When I had the SR on my car, I used sealant on every part of it. Many members have not had problems with just using the gaskets, but when I looked at the SR I saw a vacuum leak just waiting to happen.

I did not have vacuum leaks!!!!

 

I'll put it this way---Mine was an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE for my mechanics to install when they did my whole engine, I bought it during the build up and gave it to them to install instead of tpi. Plus mine is polished to a mirror shine top/bottem--so that was another issue they had to keep in mind--no scratching. But they were getting vacuum leaks like CRAZY, they had to disassemble the whole thing 3-4 times before they got it right, doubled up on some of the gaskets and used sealant. Unfortunately they get to redo it early next week because I took car back for a rebuild/383 upgrade...Too bad for them--but I'm sure they'll have a better method this time as to how they'll put it back together...

 

It would not hurt to double-check the sequence. I see that you
have an '89 and if the Helms manual for that year was referenced,
then life should be good. However, there was at least one post in
Aug in which an error in the Helms sequence for an earlier model yr
was discussed.

Here is a link to a previous post about the '89 intake torque sequence.

BTW - if you searched for threads about Superram installation issues
and drew a blank, you need to try again. I can't begin to count the
number of times I've logged on here to find threads from hapless
souls in the midst of some SR-related head/heart-ache.

Here is a recent worst-case scenario. Rambles a bit, but instructive.

For more 'How/How Not To' info, search, then select 'Click for Advanced'
When the expanded search dialog opens, be sure that both Current and
Archived boxes are checked. Choose the parent forum '84- 96'. Then
try different combos of Super Ram, Superram, SR and so on. These
together with 'problem', 'how do I' or any of the Censor-skirting acronyms
ought to return a goldmine of information.

There's no doubt in my mind that the SR performs - but at a cost, both
monetary and otherwise. A Zen-like state of mind is probably an asset.

.

 

Vance, long time no talk.....sounds like you're getting close here are my tips:

1. Chase all threads before anything else;
2. Bench fit it (or in your case, dry fit it on the installed base) so as to ID any problem areas. At that time, you'll see the difficulty lining everything up and physically getting to the two center bolts from the runners to the plenum. At this time, check the runner to plenum gaskets and trim as req'd. These new gaskets now have siamesed openings and needed considerable trimming on my unit last month on my R&R;
3. I would recommend studding the two center runner bolt holes up into the plenum, and slightly enlarging the corresponding plenum holes when you drill out the threads. This will give you a little extra play when you drop the plenum on the runners. Use locktite on the locknuts inside the plenum;
4. When you start the actual install, use "The Right Stuff" as a sealant. Be careful not to let it ooze into the air flow areas. Start the runner bolts, leaving the runners loose for play, then drop the plenum and get the runner bolts started up into the plenum.
5. Once all bolts are started, work your way around taking things up slowly to reduce any binding.......do this till things are all snug, then install the locknuts inside the plenum if you go that route.
6. Before you begin the install, carefully examine the runners. One of them has an angled crossover opening and one of them has a vertical crossover opening. Those will help you determine which side is which....it is very easy to install them wrong if you don't do this!

Did I forget anything guys?

Vance, best of luck on your project.......lets hook up sometime when you get it running!

 

Me and the tech used tubes of the RTV sealant called "The Right Stuff." So far, no oil or vacuum leak. All I needed to do was get a tune for the bigger 24lb injectors vs. my stock 22 lb ones.

 

most guys will notch each lower perimeter screw so that you can use a small screw driver to draw them up from the top :cheers----at best its a tough job but you should only have to do it once.

 

I installed the super ram on my 90 race car. It was a job and half to install so it worked. Had to do install twice to chase leaks.
1) Check machining for EGR slots. On mine runner slot went past manifold gasket causing leak.
2) Use gasket sealer on everything.
3) Dry assemble first to find holes that dont line up.
4) Slot plenum mounting screws so they can be inserted by screw driver from top.
5) You have to grind bolt heads or grind runners on inner runner bolts.
6) Make sure runners clear injectors and connectors.
7) If you can, remove rocker arms to access bottom runner lower bolts.
8) If not, get long hex wrenches with universal ends.
9) Memory? I bought a Sears 1/4" offset ratcheting wrench to access some of the bolts.
10) I bought a bunch of 1" long 1/4-20 set screws threaded into plenum to align with runners. I then removed set screws on by one as I threaded in bolts.
11) Before installing base check alignment of rear machined surface with block mating surface. Make sure they align or replace manifold.
12) Clean Clean Clean block front and rear manifold valley surfaces
13) I used a spring punch to dimple both surfaces to give silicon sealant more bite to block.
14) Have a good supply of aspirin, valium or beer. Your choice!! You'll need it.



Larry

 

rrubel posted a picture of an allen wrench here for Ramanstud.

Ramanstud modified the wrench to ease the SR plenum install. The
picture shows a conventional ended wrench, I don't suppose it would
hurt to use a ball-end if a guy was making another instance of this.

BTW - there is also a discussion in the thread about manifold mod's that
go beyond what Caboboy mentioned above.

.

 

You know, it was not a piece of cake but it was not trerrible either. Tim and the others gotcha covered up there, for sure,,,buy a tap to chase the threaded holes.

I drilled the plenum box tapped holes out in the center where it was hard to reach and tapped the runner plate, then I drilled cross holes in the button head SS bolts and ran them top/down into the plenum plate, and then put a cotter pin into each bolt in case they worked free to assure me that they would not get into the engine.,,,,

but I also put the right stuff on every plenum box bolt hole to prevent air from leaking past the bolt holes as well as around each of the openings in the plenum/box entry area.

 

Thanks for the amazing depth of help here guys!

 

I checked my helms manual and it is the same sequence for torquing the manifold...phew! Hope I dodged the bullet on that. I appreciate the reference/info.