clutch
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
ok.
get a copy of the factory service manual, www.helminc.com.
You will need it.
bleeding the clutch is not hard... but you will need help!!! It is not a one person job unless you invest in a "phoenix tool," which injects the fluid through the slaves bleed screw into the slave upto the master.
There are a lot of different ways to do this, but I have found this method to work very well.
1) jack up the car and support accordingly.
2) remove the ECM. It blocks access to the master
3) remove the cap on the master and add Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid - good stuff.
4) friend in car, you under car, remove slave from bellhousing.
5) loosen bleed screw, let fluid drip out. retighten bleed screw.
6) GENTLY push the piston up, until it stops. A ratchet handle, long extention, something like that will work great. GENTLY is important here - push too fast and you can cause a spray of brake fluid. real bad.
7) holding the piston down, let the helper push the pedal to build pressure. Let the piston push against and move out... don't resist. You are simply making the system bleed itself.
8) helper checks the level, tops off if needed.
9) repeat 7 and 8 4 or 5 times, at least. this makes sure all air is out.
10) reinstall slave. confirm fluid level, reinstall cap.
on the cap, there is a rubber bladder that keeps fluid from foaming. Make sure it's collapsed up into the cap so as to be sure there is full volume in the master.
done.
get a copy of the factory service manual, www.helminc.com.
You will need it.
bleeding the clutch is not hard... but you will need help!!! It is not a one person job unless you invest in a "phoenix tool," which injects the fluid through the slaves bleed screw into the slave upto the master.
There are a lot of different ways to do this, but I have found this method to work very well.
1) jack up the car and support accordingly.
2) remove the ECM. It blocks access to the master
3) remove the cap on the master and add Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid - good stuff.
4) friend in car, you under car, remove slave from bellhousing.
5) loosen bleed screw, let fluid drip out. retighten bleed screw.
6) GENTLY push the piston up, until it stops. A ratchet handle, long extention, something like that will work great. GENTLY is important here - push too fast and you can cause a spray of brake fluid. real bad.
7) holding the piston down, let the helper push the pedal to build pressure. Let the piston push against and move out... don't resist. You are simply making the system bleed itself.
8) helper checks the level, tops off if needed.
9) repeat 7 and 8 4 or 5 times, at least. this makes sure all air is out.
10) reinstall slave. confirm fluid level, reinstall cap.
on the cap, there is a rubber bladder that keeps fluid from foaming. Make sure it's collapsed up into the cap so as to be sure there is full volume in the master.
done.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 24
From: Orange County NY
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by bogus
ok.
get a copy of the factory service manual, www.helminc.com.
You will need it.
bleeding the clutch is not hard... but you will need help!!! It is not a one person job unless you invest in a "phoenix tool," which injects the fluid through the slaves bleed screw into the slave upto the master.
There are a lot of different ways to do this, but I have found this method to work very well.
1) jack up the car and support accordingly.
2) remove the ECM. It blocks access to the master
3) remove the cap on the master and add Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid - good stuff.
4) friend in car, you under car, remove slave from bellhousing.
5) loosen bleed screw, let fluid drip out. retighten bleed screw.
6) GENTLY push the piston up, until it stops. A ratchet handle, long extention, something like that will work great. GENTLY is important here - push too fast and you can cause a spray of brake fluid. real bad.
7) holding the piston down, let the helper push the pedal to build pressure. Let the piston push against and move out... don't resist. You are simply making the system bleed itself.
8) helper checks the level, tops off if needed.
9) repeat 7 and 8 4 or 5 times, at least. this makes sure all air is out.
10) reinstall slave. confirm fluid level, reinstall cap.
on the cap, there is a rubber bladder that keeps fluid from foaming. Make sure it's collapsed up into the cap so as to be sure there is full volume in the master.
done.
get a copy of the factory service manual, www.helminc.com.
You will need it.
bleeding the clutch is not hard... but you will need help!!! It is not a one person job unless you invest in a "phoenix tool," which injects the fluid through the slaves bleed screw into the slave upto the master.
There are a lot of different ways to do this, but I have found this method to work very well.
1) jack up the car and support accordingly.
2) remove the ECM. It blocks access to the master
3) remove the cap on the master and add Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid - good stuff.
4) friend in car, you under car, remove slave from bellhousing.
5) loosen bleed screw, let fluid drip out. retighten bleed screw.
6) GENTLY push the piston up, until it stops. A ratchet handle, long extention, something like that will work great. GENTLY is important here - push too fast and you can cause a spray of brake fluid. real bad.
7) holding the piston down, let the helper push the pedal to build pressure. Let the piston push against and move out... don't resist. You are simply making the system bleed itself.
8) helper checks the level, tops off if needed.
9) repeat 7 and 8 4 or 5 times, at least. this makes sure all air is out.
10) reinstall slave. confirm fluid level, reinstall cap.
on the cap, there is a rubber bladder that keeps fluid from foaming. Make sure it's collapsed up into the cap so as to be sure there is full volume in the master.
done.
Well stated, Bogus.However, I highly recommend using a Phoenix Injector tool for this job. It makes it SO much easier, quicker, it's a one man operation, and the results are great. Only downside is the cost of this tool... (if I remember correctly, it's around $100, give or take depending on where you buy it).
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
how about speed bleeders? one man op that way too. stainless steel, 4 for $60. any real negatives with these?
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 291
From: MA
I just changed out both the clutch master and slave on my 96 GS.
I also used silicon dot5 fluid in the system to prevent moisture in the system (the car sits in the garage for looong NEW England Winters).
I used a Mighty Vac. Bought it at AutoZone for about $29.00. It is not in a Mighty Vac package but the unit is a mighty vac.
Made life a lot easier.
But I have a question for Bogus. That bladder your talking about, I thought it was supposed to be extended. It is not easy to collapse the bladder (does not keep shape) and stuff it back in the master cylinder resevoir!
I left it extended.
I also used silicon dot5 fluid in the system to prevent moisture in the system (the car sits in the garage for looong NEW England Winters).
I used a Mighty Vac. Bought it at AutoZone for about $29.00. It is not in a Mighty Vac package but the unit is a mighty vac.
Made life a lot easier.
But I have a question for Bogus. That bladder your talking about, I thought it was supposed to be extended. It is not easy to collapse the bladder (does not keep shape) and stuff it back in the master cylinder resevoir!
I left it extended.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
The bladder left extended only allows for about 1/2 the allowed volume in the master... it does fold up, but it ain't pretty...
I agree, that the Phoenix tool rocks... but is pricey.
I didn't realize that the mighty vac was a good option. Thanks!!!
DOT 5 is good for clutches, cause heat isn't as much an issue, however, the Valvoline IS a full synthetic...
I agree, that the Phoenix tool rocks... but is pricey.
I didn't realize that the mighty vac was a good option. Thanks!!!
DOT 5 is good for clutches, cause heat isn't as much an issue, however, the Valvoline IS a full synthetic...
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 22,209
Likes: 12
From: OBAMA IS HITLER
i'm not too sure about DOT 5.
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...rakefluid.html
i go with castrol LMA for both clutch and brakes
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...rakefluid.html
i go with castrol LMA for both clutch and brakes
Last edited by Red Tornado; Sep 29, 2005 at 08:55 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 291
From: MA
Interesting article Hot Rod 90,
I didn't understand the part about Dot 5 containing more absorbed air than the others. I didn't think any fluid contained air. But I'm not exactly the brightest when it comes to chemistry
I didn't understand the part about Dot 5 containing more absorbed air than the others. I didn't think any fluid contained air. But I'm not exactly the brightest when it comes to chemistry
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 309
Likes: 5
From: La Crosse,WI,USA
Any Tricks on getting the Master Cylinder cap off? My system is leaking and I am trying to check it and I can't get the darn cover off. The master is nice and clean I am sure it is the slave and I bought one to install but can't do it without being able to add fluid. Any ideas short of destroying the reservoir?