Im finally rebuilding the engine in my 85 and today i just got the intake pulled off. Im just gunna rebuild what i have to and get a new cam. Around how much can i get wrapped up into this??? Is there anything i may consider to do "while im at it"?

 

Rebuilding an engine is exploratory surgery. You just don't know what it will take until you get it apart.

If you are doing all the work yourself and just want to rebuild it with maybe a cam change and don't get carried away with buying speed parts, you could get by for around $1000. That would include pulling everything apart, getting headwork done INCLUDING valve guides, don't forget them and boring the block and new pistons if necessary.

It is highly likely that once the machine shop mics the block the cylinders will be okay and only require reringing, but there again, you don't know until it is apart.

Good luck,

 

Wide open question. What do you mean by "rebuild"? With an 85 I would guess that would require an oversize bore with new pistons,crank plus any other corrective machine work. Heads reconditioned and trued. Add in all the other pieces and parts and my SWAG (Scientific Wild Azz Guess) would be in the $1500.00 range. That assumes you use good stuff and replace all the wear items that need replacing. You can cut a lot of corners but are taking risks every time you do.

 

One while your at it item is a water pump and bottom hose. Guess thats 2. Anyway its a pain to do, so you should replace them while you have everything apart. Around $60.

 

You can cut a lot of corners, and it won't be to your benefit. I had about $1000 tied up in a budget rebuild and I wish I ponied up for better parts. You can get the crank reground and the rods reconditioned assuming a magnaflux shows everything to be okay, some cheap KB .030 over size pistons because you will more than likely need the block bored, have the heads rebuilt, maybe some bigger valves, a gasket set and .010 over size bearings, some quality ARP bolts and call it a day.

If you're going to be in that far at the very least I would go with a stroker crankshaft and a bit more cam. If you could swing a quality forged reciprocating assembly that will give you plenty of room to upgrade later on without having to tear completely back into the engine and buy new parts should your goals change.

 

Every time I looked at this overhaul list, I kept coming up with a 1700-2200 repair bill. This list is for common parts and not the best grade for everything. But it takes into consideration the replacement and reconditioning of all necessary parts. Then I started looking around at a ZZ-4 short block that comes with a guarantee for 2400. A long block is 4500. And then the price goes up from there.

IMHO it is best to establish a budget, and find the right parts and services to meet the budget. Skip the items you dont need. But that is a short list considering you don't want to have to R&R the engine in the short future.

Good luck!

 

Before you do anything, ask yourself this...What do I use this car for? The answer should dictate how you proceed.

Is it a daily commuter? Weekend cruiser? Occasional racer? Every weekend at the track?

Answering this and doing a little research ahead of time will allow you to make the best price/performance decisions and achieve the balance you're looking for.

Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick two.

Oh...and one final question....how long do you plan to keep this car?

 

I'd probably just buy a short block, throw in a mild cam, p/u some
aluminum heads from a junk yard and have them rebuilt while I
was doing the rest-new water pump and put her back in.

 

I am REALLY impressed with everyones X Ray vision. There is NO way to know what will be needed without disassembly and measurement.

One poster is recommending boring and oversize pistons without ever first micing the cylinders.

AGAIN, you cannot know what it will need until you get it apart and measure.

These are fuel injected engines. Fuel injection saves LOTS of cylinder/piston wear because you don't have the raw fuel problems as you do with a carburetor. The likelihood of finding cylinders and pistons in spec is very high.

If oil has been changed frequently and the engine has not been abused, it could very well turn out to be nothing more than a ring and valve job. On the other hand it could be worn completely out requiring, boring, crankshaft, etc.

Personally I would not replace ANY parts that did not need replacing including the water pump. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Good luck with your rebuild,

 

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a great theory when spoken. So let me share my take on your comment. I had completely removed the front under carriage and the radiator duct assembly. The water pump was completely in the open and I contemplated replacing it. But the project was way over budget so the old pump stayed since it wasn't leaking.

Care to guess the first part that failed only a week after getting the Vette back on the road? Uh Huh!! The F'n water pump. So I spent another Saturday to R&R the pump and smashing knuckles, instead of enjoying the good weather and riding with wifey.

I say NO WAY! Unless you have recently replaced a part and can be assured that it will go at least a year, pull it and replace it now!

 

JrRifleCoach,

You were unlucky. Also, before deciding to leave the old pump in place did you wiggle the shaft to see how tight it was? Also did you examine the weep hole area for any traces of a previous leak? If you had, you would have probably known to replace it while you were there because "it was broke."

I'm sure your experience was very frustrating, but just because yours was bad does not mean that everyones water pump is ready to start leaking and should be replaced any time that you are in there.

Now, so that Biff Buyer can share your concern, he should know to see that the water pump shaft is tight and that there is no sign of a previous leak at the weap hole before deciding to reuse the old water pump.

Have a great day,

 

well, its in pretty bad shape, the engine. I'll need new injectors and a whole new valvetrain. I broke a sensor and the FPR block thingy trying to get it all off. Im sending it to one of the local machine shops to get it rebuilt. I almost think they just do it on a "package" basis

 

it's odd beacause there was soo much crap in my fuel. Crap was all over my injectors and in my FPR. What would i need to do computer wise to make this engine work in my car again?

 

Biff,

It sounds like you need to bite the bullet and remove and clean the tank. After that replace the fuel filter and pour in a can of B12 with the first tank.

Best of luck,

 

clean the tank ay? can't i just go in through the top any maybe wipe it out??? And another question, if I start changing things from factory spects, will i need higher flowing injectors? Bigger throttle Body? Bigger Fuel Pump?

 

Yes Biff, that's what happens when you start modifying. It's really difficult to draw the line where you stop.

The good news is that a stone stock TPI engine is pretty darn strong as is. If you are on a budget, rebuild to spec. and be happy.

Good luck,

 

just wanted to put this up - i'd like to sell my shortblock, but don't want to take too much of a hit - have a look

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&page=1&pp=20

 

Just a thought. The 85 used a pretty much stock engine with iron heads. The generic Chevy 350 long block crate engine will drop right in and bolt up with no problem. Cost is around $1300 for a NEW engine with a full warranty and I bought mine at a local Chevy dealer so there was no shipping charge. Like earlier posts have said, you need to know what you want to do with it. The 85 is a great daily driver, but the stock engine does not make a lot of power. If you are going to complete, just go with a completely engineered performance crate engine where all the components are designed to work with each other. If this is a daily driver then the generic crate engine may not make as much HP as the original L98, but it is still a very solid performer when you put the TPI system on it. Had mine in for over a year and about 15,000 miles and it runs great. It has the added advantage of reducing your labor and eliminating the machine shop work you have to pay someone to do (and hope it is done right)

 

That depends on how much you change. You have an 85 with a Mas Air Flow system, very forgiving especially for mild changes. By mild changes I am talking about things like the recommended upgrade to aluminum heads from a late 86+ stocker. You said you need new valvetrain, so rebuilding these will be a very nice bang for buck alternative to your existing iron heads.

You may want to consider the overbore, if it's in your budget. Who cares what the cylinders measure, if it's in your budget, now IS the time to increase displacement. It is THE thing you should do "while you're in there", if it's in your budget.

As far as injectors, if you end up with a mildly cammed TPI 355, you will not spend any more on injectors than you already need to. You could use with stock size injectors, there are a few places members are familiar with that will rebuild your stock ones for a good price.

No new fuel pump or TB will be needed to reep the rewards. I would suggest an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

You are in a good position for some excellent bang for buck simple things. If you start thinking 383, the budget really goes up and the TPI will choke your money to death.

 

Well Biff, You got one heck of a repair job here.

Be careful though when you take it to an authorized repair shop

Especially when their wiggling ones shaft and looking in your hole