Distributor removal Step by Step?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Distributor removal Step by Step?
I want to remove my intake manifold to take to a shop to have it cleaned so that I can get it ready for paint. I just need a step by step method of removing the distributor so I can get the intake manifold off. I did this on my camaro about 8 years ago and forgot :o I don't see any tech tips and did a search and it wasn't helpful. Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,335
Likes: 264
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
I would scribe a line on the dist base and manifold and pop the cap off and mark the dist where the rotor location is. Maybe a punch mark on the manifold scribe line would help you see it once it's painted.
When ready just reproduce both sets of reference marks, plug it back in and you should be good to go.
When ready just reproduce both sets of reference marks, plug it back in and you should be good to go.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 34
From: The Top of Utah
1.) Remove the cap and wires.
2.) Bump the engine over until the rotor is pointing at an easy to identify and remember object.
3.) Note the orientation of the distributor body to some other item under the hood. Preferably, one that won't be removed during this operation. It may help also, to mark the distributor body with the rotor orientation.
4.) Unplug the 4 wire plug on the left side of the distributor.
5.) loosen and remove the 9/16" headed distributor hold down bolt and clamp.
6.) Pull straight up on the distributor and lay it on the work bench, kitchen counter, what have you.
7.) Have another beer. (This is only a two beer job.)
8.) Finally...
RACE ON!!!
2.) Bump the engine over until the rotor is pointing at an easy to identify and remember object.
3.) Note the orientation of the distributor body to some other item under the hood. Preferably, one that won't be removed during this operation. It may help also, to mark the distributor body with the rotor orientation.
4.) Unplug the 4 wire plug on the left side of the distributor.
5.) loosen and remove the 9/16" headed distributor hold down bolt and clamp.
6.) Pull straight up on the distributor and lay it on the work bench, kitchen counter, what have you.
7.) Have another beer. (This is only a two beer job.)
8.) Finally...
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Is this gonna be a problem since the fuel rails are already removed ? as well as the the waterneck that goes to the coolant thermostat? If I bump the engine over won't fluids be pouring out ? I'm more worried about the gas.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Why bump it. Just mark the base and rotor location .
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by 87vette
Ok... Now when it comes time to put it back in.. I will need to bump it at that point correct ? I read about someone mentioning that once it is pulled, it won't go back in or line up the way you pulled it out. Is that correct?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 34
From: The Top of Utah
You can pull the fuel pump fuse and bump it if you like. You can remove the serpentine belt to keep the water pump from pumping. Or you can simply make note of how things are oriented, as they are. The point of all this marking is to make the reinstall that much easier. You don't HAVE to do any of this. Once the distributor is out make sure no one turns the engine, manually or with the starter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the battery to prevent a helper, or a lapse, from moving the engine. You may be remembering a comment I've made, concerning the distributor falling back into place. I've found that if you shine a light down the hole and stick a large screwdriver into the slot of the oil pump drive shaft and give it a tweak, counterclockwise, the distributor will drop in easier on installation. Also note and mark the distance the rotor turns as the drive gear clears the cam gear.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 4,931
Likes: 3
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You can pull the fuel pump fuse and bump it if you like. You can remove the serpentine belt to keep the water pump from pumping. Or you can simply make note of how things are oriented, as they are. The point of all this marking is to make the reinstall that much easier. You don't HAVE to do any of this. Once the distributor is out make sure no one turns the engine, manually or with the starter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect the battery to prevent a helper, or a lapse, from moving the engine. You may be remembering a comment I've made, concerning the distributor falling back into place. I've found that if you shine a light down the hole and stick a large screwdriver into the slot of the oil pump drive shaft and give it a tweak, counterclockwise, the distributor will drop in easier on installation. Also note and mark the distance the rotor turns as the drive gear clears the cam gear.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
Likes: 7
Cruise-In II Veteran
Good to hear you got it out...how does the distributor/cam gear look?
Thats something to always take notice of when removing the dist.
If theres a bad chipped or worn gear,now is the time to replace.
If it looks peachy,leave it there!
Thats something to always take notice of when removing the dist.
If theres a bad chipped or worn gear,now is the time to replace.
If it looks peachy,leave it there!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Like the other guys said, mark the distributor relative to the intake and the rotor relative to the distributor.
If you should happen to turn the motor while it's out....
Turn the engine over by hand to the compression stroke on cylinder #1, set the balancer to 0 degrees. Set the distributor back into the engine with the rotor pointing at tower #1. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver if necessary so that it will drop in. Your timing will be close enough to start the engine. Now just set your base timing to 6 degrees BTDC and see how it runs. If it doesn't detonate, try a few more degrees for better throttle response on the low end. Just don't forget to disconnect the ECM wire from the distributor prior to setting timing.
That's it.
If you should happen to turn the motor while it's out....
Turn the engine over by hand to the compression stroke on cylinder #1, set the balancer to 0 degrees. Set the distributor back into the engine with the rotor pointing at tower #1. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver if necessary so that it will drop in. Your timing will be close enough to start the engine. Now just set your base timing to 6 degrees BTDC and see how it runs. If it doesn't detonate, try a few more degrees for better throttle response on the low end. Just don't forget to disconnect the ECM wire from the distributor prior to setting timing.
That's it.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
Likes: 23
From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
I have pics of this somewhere, if I find them, I will post them.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
Likes: 23
From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
OK, I Just found out that the pics I uploaded are now gone, so I can't show you.
I was looking forward to the pics, but thanks for checking.
