I have a pair of heads that according to UPS will arrive at the porter's on Wednesday, and here is a list of parts I have waiting for the install.
 30# SVO injectors [ FMS-M9593B302 ]
 Meziere HD Water Pump [ MEZ-WP118HD ]
 BBK 58mm twin TB [ BBK- 1544 ]
 7/16 1.6 ratio NSA Comp Pro Mag rocker arms[ CCA-1305-16
 Comp HT Push rods 7.15 long [ CC- 7939-16]
 7/16" rocker studs [ CCA-4503-16 ]
 GM Guide plates [ 14011051 ] –
 Comp Cams Hi-Tech double roller timing [ CC-3136]
 ARP 12 pt Head bolts [ ARP-134-3701 ]
 Felpro LT1 Bottom end gasket set [ FEL-CS9966 ]
 Cometic head gaskets [COM-C5645-027]
 Felpro Intake gaskets [ FP-1284 ]
 Push rod length checker[CC -7702-1]


The cam is coming with the heads, I haven't decided on how hairy its going to be yet. I have been talking with a tuner and I am just waiting on my cam choice prior to popping for the tune.
I know that I may need different length pushrods, I have assembly lube, different types of lock tight, number 2 non-hardening sealer, caulking gun tube worth of the rite-stuff, (black, copper and blue RTV) and Indian head shellac.


Questions:
1. Do I need a new roller lifter install set [CC-08-1000] the engine looks great and has less than 60K on it.
2. What valve cover gaskets should I use?
3. What did I forget?

 

Just to be safe, I would replace the lifters with the GMPP's.

Normally, valve cover gaskets can be reused.



-Mike

 

Dont forget the airfoil, and a hypertech tune for a extra 50hp! Good luck

 

As strange as this may seem, I am going to skip both of those dubious power enhancers.

 

Do you really think I need new lifters, I have less than 60k on the car, and since I went with only a 2800 stall and 3.45s the cam is not going to be Austin Powers hairy?


Mike

 

I reused my lifters with 99,000 miles on them.

 

Your lifters will be fine but break out the dremil for the VC's. I just installed a set stock LT1 covers today with the comp pro-mags and can tell you it is a tight fit. I bought the covers already carved up for what looks to be a set of pro-mags so i ahd little work for that part but the trunionds on the promags are quite wide and wil require carving the cross supports to get them fit. I spent most of the day removing the lip around the base but I think that has more to do with my AFR's so you should be ok there. Here is a shot that shows what i removed on my billet covers to give you an idea of what i am refering to, you will also have to remove the drip tabs.

 

I just did heads and cam on my 93 and I was concerned after the fact that I didnt use new lifters. I was told by LS1 speed inc who did my install that I was fine with my stockers at 50,000 miles. Another issue I had was my pushrods were changed to 7.1 from 7.2. I went with cometic gaskets and with the decking on the heads Im at 11.3 CR. In my heads I used Ferra valves that were taller then stock. I hate to be losing lift by using 7.1 s You might think about putting in a freh opti since your already there!

 

I was waiting for the OPTI suggestion, however, I am going to pass. I want to see how long a OPTI version 2 lasts. I may be kicking myself in the Jimmy for my obstinance; however, my Master Gunnery Sergeant Father always told me, " Son, if you're going to be dumb you had better be tough."

 

Thanks!
I am prepared to carve up my valve covers; I can't believe that it will be all that difficult to grind/cut up my composite covers.

Mike

 

After doing the bilit covers the coposits definatly were a nice change. Took me all of 20 min's today to do the final triming and 10 of that was replacing the little cutting wheels that snap in a second if you are not carefull. For the alum covers I used a cutting tool and it took a couple of hours.

 

Thanks for the info on cutting up the composites.

 

Only cut what you need out of the covers they still have to maintain rigity when bolting them down.
The rollers should be ok unless you did not lube them when you took them out.If they are out make sure the roller still rolls.
I hope you are changing the springs.

 

The rollers are still in the car and the car is running. I am changing much more than the springs.

This phase head/cam next phase 396!

Mike

 

I have heard that you don't want to use old lifters on a new cam. That was from an old engine builder, so perhaps it doesn't hold up anymore. However, lifters aren't that expensive (I think I got new CompCam lifters for less than $200) so maybe it's the right move.

I did virtually the exact thing to my car last fall, I'll dig up the parts list on the finished product and see what you might have missed.

I don't know how aggressive your cam is, but 30# injectors sound a bit big. What is the flow of the heads and the lift/duration of your cam?

Are you pulling the motor? There are a lot of things to upgrade / replace if you're doing that

Oil pan / pump / pickup
PS Pump
Motor mounts
Clutch

 

I have an Auto and have a 2800 stall for this build. The recommended injectors are the Ford 30s or 36s so I went on the small side. I will post the flow data and cam specs when the heads come back. My engine has low enough miles that I am not messing with the lower end until I have the cash for a 396 short block.
Your old engine builder buddy is right never reuse old flat tappets/lifters, rollers are a different story. I am using some first generation hydraulic rollers in my bike. They have been going strong since 1948.

 

Slushbox? I guess you're safe on the clutch, then

So does the Auto somehow need more fuel? Please educate me. Everything I've read is that the LT1 doesn't need bigger than 24# unless you're going very aggressive on the cam / heads. But I've only discussed manuals, since that's what I have.

I personally have 30# FMS injectors, but I have a fairly high duration and lift, and the bottom end is the next project so I figured I'd upgrade now to support.

 

For the same RWHP yes, since an Auto has more driveline losses. I am buying parts and a package that puts out 440-475rwhp SAE in a six speed.
The porter recommends 36's for this package, I talked with the tuner and he said to go with Ford SVO 30s. So, I guess the package is agressive.
What kind of RWHP are you putting down?

 

This was for flat tappet non roller cams. Th roller lifters do not create a wear pattern so the problems associated with the old non-rollers do not apply. As far as the injector goes I would definatly go with what your tuner wants to see in the car but for your RWHP goals are they seems a little small from what I have seen for most LT1 tuners. Again they should work fine, just watch the DC when you send it to the dyno. My 36's are maxed right at 80% DC and I could probably go to 32s with no problem but the car drives awsome so the 36's will stay.

 

If the tuner is recommending and has used the combo in the past I'd take his word over mine, but in my (limited) experience people tend to overdo it with the injectors. I was on the border of what 24# would handle, I was probably fine but there was no penalty for increasing fuel delivery.

440-470 is a helluva lot of power for a stock bottom end. I would guess I'm just a bit north of 400 at the wheels, but I haven't dyno'd it because my timing's still off.

My heads flow about 285 / 225 at 0.600 lift, my cam is 0.574 / 0.571, 236/230 duration with 1.6 rockers. Bottom end is stock. Everything else is about the same as what you've done, I assume you have LT headers and some sort of cat-back.

How aggressive is the cam to get that much more power? Did the tuner tell you how your idle is going to be?