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Is there a method to remove them?
When I compress the spring, the valve wants go down with the keepers stuck on the retainer...
In addition: coud I change from 7deg valve lock to 10 deg valve locks?
I have only to buy the new 10 valve locks with the single groove for 11/32" diameter stem valve?
what means Recessed for Lash Cap?
and + .050 in. ?
Thanks
About the keepers sticking......before I compress any springs for removal, with a rubber mallet (or carefully with a hammer covered with a rag) I give them all a few shocking taps a piece on the outskirts of the retainers, this will help break their wedge free....I then(after spring compression) use a screwdriver and one of those magnetic telescoping antena looking things to get them loose and grab them(or if you don't have the telescoping magnetic device ANY old magnet will help)..........keepers that are recessed for lash caps are just that, "recessed" so that if you wanted to run aftermarket protective valve stem tip lash caps(dont bother), the keepers wouldn't get in the way........
Last edited by 95NOSvette; Mar 31, 2006 at 08:08 AM.
I used any sort of magnet. When I compress the spring, the valve stem follow the retainer because the keeper is stuck!
I have to block the valve?? (i don't think so...)
Using a little screwdriver has NO effect on the locks because it seems glued to the retainer.
Assuming the heads are off the car, the last time I did keepers (15 years ago, lol) I'd compress the spring then tap the valve from the combustion chamber side with a little block of wood to free them from the keepers.
When I did mine I had the same problem. I was using a spring compressor that had a handle at the top that you turn to compress the spring.
I would give it a couple of good whacks with the palm of my hand straight down and the valve would break free.
I was using the rope method to hold the valves up.
I'm not sure if this would work the same if your using an air compressor.
after the first couple it gets easier because you know how hard to hit it.
One question: You do have compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves up, right?
As other's have said, wrap the retainers with a hammer and socket first to help break them free.
I didn't have much luck with the pry bar spring compressor. I found a claw type that you screw down to compress the spring worked better most of the time, since I didn't have alot of pressure in the cylinder, maybe only 20 psi.
This type of compressor may pop off the spring, so use caution and watch out for flying keepers. I finally found the one keeper that I lost when the compressor popped off the spring last summer (on the garage floor, not in the oil pan). I was very happy to finally find it.