That is bassackwards. If that was the problem, it should start, unless it is still flooded from prior attempts, but, either way, the code should still be there until you clear it.

RACE ON!!!

 

 

I agree. He probably had the battery unplugged and didn't mention it. Good point on the flooding, he should check the plugs to make sure he didn't wash them out.

 

Sorry, it DOES start but dies immediately. What I meant to say was that it wont keep running. All electrical components are connected.

Two questions. If the metal tube on the driver side of the intake manifold (i'm assuming this is the PCV pipe) doesnt have a snug fit into the short rubber hose coming out of the intake manifold, will this cause it to not continue running? Also, how easy is it to damage the fuel injection wiring harness?

 

Nope, the pcv isn't gonna cause the problem you describe because it's not a snug fit. On the injection harness-first get a noid light-it's nothing more than a 12volt test light-I hope you have a FSM, but you attach this to each injector pigtail, 1 at a time, crank the engine and watch for the light to pulse. At least on an 87 all the injector pigtails
run along the intake side of the valve cover in a (for lack of a better word) plastic square tube. Still kinda doubt that's your problem-there are just so many vacumn lines that can be easily broken (plastic and brittle) or accidentally disconnected while working around the intake-sorry-I just think you've over looked one-It's just very easy for any of us to do. Either that or you've disconnected and electrical connection
along the line.Incidentally, when I was chasing a miss and tested my injectors with a noid light-I found 1 bad pigtail connection-but my car started fine and kept ideling.Because of the code 15, you may also want to do two things, first pull a spark plug-it may be wet-gas foulded, second, you may also want to try cranking the engine while holding the gas pedal to the floor-just lets the computer make an adjustment for engine flooding.

 

I installed new spark plugs today, it needed new ones anyway. This didnt fix the problem but it helped. I can now keep it running by giving it gas. LOL, yeah I know thats not going to help get me anywhere. Injector harness is all good. Are there any other sensors that could cause it to not run that may have gone bad. The "nozzle" on the power brake booster that connects to the vacuum hose that leads to the intake manifold seems a little loose. I'll keep checking things though.

 

O.K. All you did was change the valve cover gaskets! There are not that many things that you have to undo to do this procedure. Vacuum leaks would cause this, IAC sensor not working properly would cause this. TPS sensor out of adjustment would cause this with a Code. MAP sensor could cause this with a Code. You have new plugs and you know it gets fire because it will run with throttle. When it runs does it sound like it did before new gaskets (stumble or backfire)? All fuses are good and you are getting some fuel pressure but have you checked the pressure, pumps quit for no reason sometimes? If the battery was disconnected before the gasket change there wouldn't be a fried wire or connection or fuse. I'm just trying to think of things here, hard to tell without my hands on it.

 

IAC sensor??? The TPS isn't likely to go out of adjustment by changing the valve cover gaskets. MAP on an '85??? Maybe HE should call AC Delco. Huh?

Has the code 15 been cured and not coming bask? Take a close look around the perimeter of the valve covers to see if there are any wires or vacuum hoses clamped between the valve covers and the heads.

RACE ON!!!

 

Yes the code 15 is gone, I thought I had already mentioned that. I have checked just about everything on the top part of the engine, even if I didnt screw with it while changing gaskets. There is nothing clamped between the covers. The only thing that I think is wrong is the Brake Booster vacuum might be leaking. The last time I turned the car off it was hissing. Its in there all the way, I dont understand why its doing that. I looked it up in the Helms manual, said I need to take it to a mechanic/dealer because its not something a home mechanic can fix. I can see how this might the cause of my trouble, as the hose runs up into the intake manifold. Any suggestions?

 

I'm not in front of my FSM, but I think its the knock sensor just below and inbetween the 1 & 3 cyl. I'm not sure if that could cause this problem or not but just a suggestion of something more to take a second look at. Maybe knock the wire off while change valve covers?

 

Nope, that sensor is good. Checked it today. Thanks for your input though.

 

I feel your pain, had a similiar problem a few weeks back with mine. Drove me nuts for days and come to find out it was just that the fuel pump relay wiring harness wasn't making complete contact. You watch it will end up being something really simple. Good luck with it

 

Fuel Pump relay wiring harness eh? I'll look into that. Also, is it possible to put a little RTV sealant around the "nozzle" of the Brake Booster, or am I just screwed?

 

Can't you just replace the hose to the brake booster or cut it back? Something tells be that, that has to be connected. On mine and remember mine is a CFI, the hose go back to the intake manifold. So I would assume that you need a good connection with no leaks since its vacuum related.

 

I know what your saying. The hose itself is good and has a good connection. But if you look at the Brake booster you will notice there is a nozzle coming out of it that the hose connects to. This is the part that is a little loose.

 

I had a similiar event. My trouble ended up being the pigtail harness going into the dist. body and connecting to the pick up module. It crumbled into pieces when touched. It is an item that is supposed to be replaced every so often. Moving the harness around in the dist area may have caused your trouble.

 

gotcha! RTV sealant, not sure how it would work. Maybe you can spot weld it, that way you don't have to buy a new one. Can you some how temporarily seal it to a least start it and see if thats your problem?

 

yeah, RTV works great as long as its not subjected to high temps over 300 degrees. The Brake Booster doesnt get hot, but i'm worried about whether or not it would hold vacuum.

I doubt it has anything to do with the distributor cause the engine does run, but its worth a second look.

 

If you can hear hissing from it-vacumn leak, that's probably the problem in a nut shell. I'd try anything to seal it-if that cures the problem-replace the booster.

 

Sounds like you have a massive vacium leak connected with your break booster. Either the booster diaphran is ruptured or when working at the valve covers you somehow disloged the grommet that the booster vacium hose fitting goes into at the booster.

You say it is loose, how is the grommet it goes through that seals it?

Try disconnecting this hose from the booster entirely and plugging it with something to eliminate any vacium leak that might be associated with the booster and see if it starts and runs.