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There is also a couple pictures of the engine bay as well. The engine was spec'd by myself and a local machine shop did the work and assembly. It is basically a 383, all forged with Callies 4340 crankshaft, Lunati billet steel rods, Ross custom pistons, custom ground cam, AFR competition ported 210cc head with larger valves. Static compression is at 8.7:1. Vortec T trim with Gregs 8 rib blower drive pumping 12 PSI of boost with Gregs Methanol intercooling. There is a bit more in the engine than what the dyno sheet shows, its got a good by conservative tune to make let the engine have a long and prosperous life.
Thanks for the link. That looks like an awesome setup...something I'm considering down the road. Does the car really weigh 3625 lbs? Got any more engine bay pics?
Thanks for the link. That looks like an awesome setup...something I'm considering down the road. Does the car really weigh 3625 lbs? Got any more engine bay pics?
I have lots of pictures of Glens car. Shoot me an email and I can send them to you directly. tjwong@qwest.net
The 3625 weight number is the spec I have. The actual weight maybe different. It should be within 100lbs or so.
Looks good. I guess you can't run an electric wp with this setup. What computer and tuning do you use? What do you think the cooling limits (in terms of hp & psi) are on the "Gaseous Intercooling" setup? I guess and 8 rib system won't slip on a 12-15 psi T-trim? Thanks again
Looks good. I guess you can't run an electric wp with this setup. What computer and tuning do you use? What do you think the cooling limits (in terms of hp & psi) are on the "Gaseous Intercooling" setup? I guess and 8 rib system won't slip on a 12-15 psi T-trim? Thanks again
Gregs system will work fine with any "streetable" blower setup. If you need more flow, then just change the nozzle size. The system is also programmable for when it comes on, for instance Glens car is setup to start spraying at 6 psi and at 8 psi it switches to high speed. I did have some initial slippage, but after some additional testing, I tightened up the belt fit with a larger idler pulley. With Gregs tapered cone style pulley coupling you can get a belt to fit tight enough so that with a normal pulley affair, you couldn't get the belt over the pulley. It is a neat design because you can get a very tight fit. I have to bottom out the tensioner, and the pulley will just slip onto the cone. With a normal setup the belt would have been way short of being able to pull it over the pulley.
tj, what size pulley was used to achieve those boost numbers? That is very interesting about the pulley. I'm one of those guys that has struggled tons of times to get tight belts onto the pulley. I can't tell you how many belts I've gone through trying to get those things to fit.
Also, what pulley part # did you swap on the tensioner? How much bigger did you go measurement wise?
tj, what size pulley was used to achieve those boost numbers? That is very interesting about the pulley. I'm one of those guys that has struggled tons of times to get tight belts onto the pulley. I can't tell you how many belts I've gone through trying to get those things to fit.
Also, what pulley part # did you swap on the tensioner? How much bigger did you go measurement wise?
We are using a 3" blower pulley, a 2.5" secondary idler, a 85mm idler that replaces the Dayco plastic pulley, and a 3.25" tensioner pulley. Check with Greg about the tapered cone style blower pulley coupling. It works great!!
how much bigger is the 85 mm pulley? I thought the stock on was about 3" or 75mm. You wouldn't happen to have a part number or even brand for the replacement pulley would you? I searched the catalogs up and down when I was looking for a bigger idler but I could never find one that would work. I was trying to find a 100 mm one but they were all in narrow widths.