Weird stalling problem
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,620
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Keep an open mind, dont eliminate anything just because it was reciently changed. The coil, especially the ICM can cause a mountain of strange and random problems. Checking the fuel pressure is a good thing to do but that is in a static condition when things are normal. 
You need to have a dynamic reading when things are krapping out which means having a gauge connected while driving. If you had a used working ICM, you could put it in and drive for a week. A bad connection somewhere is possible but I think that would cause the engine to quit because in that kind of circirtry you would probably loose spark. If you cant fine anything in the norm, then go for the weird stuff. Random failures are a tought thing to find. 
You need to have a dynamic reading when things are krapping out which means having a gauge connected while driving. If you had a used working ICM, you could put it in and drive for a week. A bad connection somewhere is possible but I think that would cause the engine to quit because in that kind of circirtry you would probably loose spark. If you cant fine anything in the norm, then go for the weird stuff. Random failures are a tought thing to find.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
Base ignition timing is set stock at 6 degrees BTDC as suggested by Alvin. I just talked to a buddy of mine and he recommended I drive with a fuel pressure gauge taped up to the window for a few days. Perhaps fuel pressure could be dropping suddenly causing a severe drivabilty problem.
While I'm at it, I'm also gonna check the ignition system and the coil.
Thanks to everyone who also offered me helpful suggestions! Will keep you all updated.
While I'm at it, I'm also gonna check the ignition system and the coil.
Thanks to everyone who also offered me helpful suggestions! Will keep you all updated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I just talked to a buddy of mine and he recommended I drive with a fuel pressure gauge taped up to the window for a few days. Perhaps fuel pressure could be dropping suddenly causing a severe drivabilty problem.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: TX
Have you checked the wires comming out of the dist to see if there is any oil leaking from the water pump seal. This oil could cause a short to ground condition. Sometimes may through a code 42 on OBD1. Which is (EST)Electronic Spark Timing Circuit)
Last edited by Mastercraft; Apr 6, 2006 at 11:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
Originally Posted by Mastercraft
Have you checked the wires comming out of the dist to see if there is any oil leaking from the water pump seal. This oil could cause a short to ground condition. Sometimes may through a code 42 on OBD1. Which is (EST)Electronic Spark Timing Circuit)
Well, here's another update:
Car was running fine for the first 3 minutes down the road. Then, there was no response from the throttle and it was running horribly down the road without the 10k resistor connected. Same symptom as described initially: car would idle roughly and pushing the gas pedal would stall it. I coasted for awhile down the road trying to restart it. This time, it would stall immediately right after startup.
So I immediately grabbed the 10k resistor and connected it to the A-B port on the ALDL. Whallah, the car started again and took me home with no problems for the rest of the 20 minute neurotic and mentally agonizing trip paranoid of another stalling episode.
When I took the resistor out of the ALDL port when the car was idling in my carport, the idle bounced up and down and hunts like that for awhile. When the idle dips to about 400 rpms, the car would either stall or recover bumping it up to 1400 rpms and dip back down to 400 rpms to repeat the "surging" wave.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 7,033
Likes: 12
Did you check to see if someone installed an ANTI-THEFT switch to your MAF sensor?
Maybe your chip has a surge idle burned into it. Check with your chip burner if they set the idle between 400-1400.
Could your car have possibly come with the 7th cylinder shut of valve? Most people don't know about the option R43 in high crime areas. Check your glove box lid if you have this option.
Maybe your chip has a surge idle burned into it. Check with your chip burner if they set the idle between 400-1400.
Could your car have possibly come with the 7th cylinder shut of valve? Most people don't know about the option R43 in high crime areas. Check your glove box lid if you have this option.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
Update, I JUST found out that my current BBK TB was meant for an 85-88 TPI. 89 and up used a new plenum and TB assembly. The 89 and up TB had a bypass hole right at the center of the IAC hole, kinda like a bleed hole.
For some reason, my old stock TB was also meant for an 85-88 TPI. My old stock plenum was my original 89 plenum. 85-88 TBs need a bleed hole in the middle of the IAC hole straight through the TB. No wonder why I've always been having stupid idle problems. Hopefully this cures this stupic problem once and for all. For more than 16 months, I have never come across this before.
Someone named Jim Mason mentioned this somewhere and also that the 85-88 TB used on 89 and up plenums should have a hole drilled straight through the back where it meets the plenum in order to avoid idle problems, along with the rich/lean bank problems for LT1s with the 2 O2 sensors on each exhaust manifold.
hippy, you have never really given any good advice to any of my threads and have always been a sarcastic ******* so now can just go **** yourself. Thanks buddy!
For some reason, my old stock TB was also meant for an 85-88 TPI. My old stock plenum was my original 89 plenum. 85-88 TBs need a bleed hole in the middle of the IAC hole straight through the TB. No wonder why I've always been having stupid idle problems. Hopefully this cures this stupic problem once and for all. For more than 16 months, I have never come across this before.
Someone named Jim Mason mentioned this somewhere and also that the 85-88 TB used on 89 and up plenums should have a hole drilled straight through the back where it meets the plenum in order to avoid idle problems, along with the rich/lean bank problems for LT1s with the 2 O2 sensors on each exhaust manifold.
hippy, you have never really given any good advice to any of my threads and have always been a sarcastic ******* so now can just go **** yourself. Thanks buddy!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
UPDATE:
I was checking fuel pressure while driving around today. I happened to stall right out of my driveway. Fuel pressure was right at the normal range of 45 psi. So I said **** it and took the gauge out to bleed the fuel rail with the key switched to on, but not running. I got a clean glass jar from my kitchen and bled the fuel rail, filling the jar halfway full of gas. I noticed when the gasoline was settled down already, there were some small clear beads and a big liquid-like bead. My goodness, I have water in my fuel tank. Time to start draining it. We'll see what happens next down the road. I'm gonna go ahead and get a ride to the local AutoZone and get some dry gas.
I was checking fuel pressure while driving around today. I happened to stall right out of my driveway. Fuel pressure was right at the normal range of 45 psi. So I said **** it and took the gauge out to bleed the fuel rail with the key switched to on, but not running. I got a clean glass jar from my kitchen and bled the fuel rail, filling the jar halfway full of gas. I noticed when the gasoline was settled down already, there were some small clear beads and a big liquid-like bead. My goodness, I have water in my fuel tank. Time to start draining it. We'll see what happens next down the road. I'm gonna go ahead and get a ride to the local AutoZone and get some dry gas.
