Last week it got to 100 degrees to days in a row here in dallas. I usually just keep the top off and windows down on hot days, but after only a quick trip to the store, i was drenched in sweat, and hot as hell.

Please help me get my A/C working. I have an '86, with auto climate control. Heater works great. the a/c clutch does not engage. it has never worked for me, the prev. owner cant remember the last time it worked. all the lines look in great shape. what are some easy diagnosis tests i can run??

I have no experience with a/c work, and the haynes manual apparently doesnt have any experience either. I can probably get ahold of any special tools i need. thanks in advance. Sorry if this is one of those "banned" topics because it gets asked every other week. In the 6 months ive been here, i havent seen it yet.

 

I would do a simple test... take the cap off of a shrader valve, press the pin and see if anything happens.

if not, you are out of freon...

You will want to convert over to R134, or one of the other friendlier substances.

 

1. Read this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1361531
2. Jumper across the low pressure switch to see if your cluch is faulty.
If cluch works, your probably low on freon.
3. Then buy the DVD at Autozone. Cost $6.99 UPC code 0 52948 64101 2 It will tell you everything you need.
4. Your car orginally had R-12. If it hasn't been converted, get your R-12 license for $24.00 at http://www.epatest.com
5. Goto Ebay and bid on 2 cans of R-12. (Cost about $20 per can) or buy it at Napa for $30 a can....
6. Alot of people will tell you to convert it over to R-134. Yes, you can get R-134 without a license (Which makes it easier next time you have a problem). But remember, no one can ever say R-134 is colder than R-12. There will be nothing ever as cold as R-12!!!.
Boy, am I going to get hammered by the forum members for my #6 above..... I'm bending over......

 

 

With 10 years of HVAC experience I would say to bring it to a shop. This is not something you can learn in an hour. You can also get blasted by refrigerant if you are not carefull. It's under very high pressure on the condenser side, even though it has equalized somewhat with the lowside when off. Get hit in the face with it and toy could end up with marbles for eyes. It flashes off into a below zero gas at atmospheric temperature. There could be a lot of things wrong with the system and unless you know how the whole thing works you might never find it. It's going to be expensive now matter what, unless it's just low on charge.

 

it's that easy??? damn...

I don't like what R12 does to the environment, however, it sure cools well, and a properly maintained system won't leak much during it's life span. the problem is accidents and such that compromise the systems integrity.

I will bet money no one saw that reply coming from me.

 

Thats basically what i wanted to know is how to tell if its just low on freon. I dont feel comfortable doing any major work.

My friend was telling me about freeze-12. Are the 2 freons mixable?

 

You call him a friend?
Don't waste your money... Either buy R-12 or convert your car over and buy R-134.... Check around for prices, you will find out its not that expensive for an R134 conversion (except at the dealer).

Again, nothing will equal the cooling power of R-12 (ie not freeze 12)... Yes, Freeze 12 is suppose to be a drop in replacement for R-12 and R-134... Do you really want to beleive this? The A/C guys would be using Freeze 12 then... When you convert over to R-134 you have to replace the orifice tube, because the molecule are smaller than R12. Why would anyone go though all that trouble to install the orifice tube, and evaculate the A/C system to convert to R-134 if Freeze 12 works just as well? Because it doesn't.... Just my thought....

 

Hi,
Went through this with my 86 GT fiero. A lot of fierce disscussion. Even talk about propane use. One thing I learned is to run the air in any car once a month if you can. This lubes the o rings so they don't leak. This keeps most systems charged. Hope this helps,Larry

 

R12 and R134a do not mix. To find a leak look for oily reisdue on the ac components, ac oil leaks out with the freon. It's probably the condenser in front of the radiator where you can't see it. you will have to pull the condenser out to get a good look at it. If its like mine it will have black oily grease spots.Make sure to add oil [4-6 oz.]when replacing components and recharging system. ONLY use ESTER OIL with a R134a conversion! R12 and R134A have their own specific oils but if you put R134a PAG oil in a conversion it will blow up the compressor because it doesn't mix. [ask me how I know] Ester oil can be used with both kinds of freon. Get a book or ask someone who's done it before for help its not that hard, just don't hook a can of freon to highside fitting it will blow up. its actually kind of hard to do because the fittings are two diffrent sizes but it can be done. When you have it filled add a flouresent leak dye to make it easier to find the leak next time.

 

Do you really feel comfortable doing this kind of work. The reason I ask this is that I've been doing AC work (in buildings) for 10 years, I also teach it part time. It's not just something you can mess around with until it's right. A lot of guys I deal with try to fix these things all the time. Problem is that they don't really know how. We just lost a $40'000.00 unit because too many people tried to fix it and it blew up. For some reason the boss had everyone but me deal with it and now its shot. I saw the reason in 2 seconds, they crossed 208 volts into the 24 volt circuit. The point of this is that it might be a lot easier to cough up the bucks and have it done right. Find a very good shop and get an estimate. There might be a lot more problems than you are ready to deal with. If the system has not worked in years, all the seals might be dried up. Do not take it to a dealer. They will want to replace EVERYTHING and that would add up to thousands.

 

http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/AC%20Electronic.pdf

 

Freeze 12 and freon 12 can mix. My AC shop just topped mine up with freeze 12 and it works fine.

 

Why would anyone want to 'upgrade' to another refrigerant that is also being phased out? And that performs worse?

Stay with the R12.

 

My suggestion would be to remove the "blue cap" Not sure if that yr had the color coded caps. Remove the cap from the suction side and do a fast, quick depression of the schrader valve. If you feel or hear no pressure release, then your system is empty. Atleast this way when you take it to a qualified HVAC mechanic you will know it is just a componet bad and not kicking in the clutch rather than compressor seals etc.
By line: R12 uses mineral oil R134A uses Polyester oil. The "Ozone Friendly" refrigerants break down mineral oil. Kind of like never changing the oil in a car, eventually ruins crank, pistons etc.

 

Lot's of good info here, but you could see if the compressor will even turn first. With the engine off, grab the outer hub and turn it - should move with a little resistance, but if it won't move at all, it's probably seized and with that you are going to need quite a bit to get it working again. If it does turn, you can do a few electrical checks to make sure the components that make it work are working: The compressor gets its power from the a/c fuse and the circuit is completed or grounded at the blower control module (mounted on the Evaporator Case) when it gets an a/c request signal from the Dash. With or without that signal, grounding the lead from the compressor to the module should engage the clutch. Leads at the compressor are usually in a connector which you can unsnap. Fuse side is usually black/white and the ground side is green. Jumper it to ground and see if the clutch engages.

In order for the Dash to send an a/c request signal to the Module, a couple of other circuits have to be completed. The first runs through the High Pressure Switch (on the smaller line from the Condensor to the Evaporator) which continues onto the Low Pressure Switch (on the larger line at the top of the Evaporator. You can ohm out both switches. The High Pressure Switch should be closed because it only opens when the pressure exceeds 400 psi. The Low Pressure Switch opens at 25 psi. If it's empty or really low on gas, it's going to be open. You can also check for voltage on the wires at the High Pressure Switch - control side is light green - signal is 5 volts. No volts means there's something open between the High Pressure Switch and the Dash, or the Dash Controller. If you have the volts and the High Pressure Switch is closed, you can jumper the contacts in the Low Pressure Switch Connector with a paperclip. That should engage the Clutch.

The guys that run the Board at www.ackits.com have a good outline of what you need if you want to convert to R134. They're pros, so you might want to check it out and you can also post any a/c questions, issues that you have for some professional advice.