C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Diff. drain Plug Install.

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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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Default Rear Diff. drain Plug Install.

Most of you may already know about this kit from the Corvette Clinic in Sanford, FL, however I just installed on my '90 yesterday and was wasn't a bad job at all. If anyone is looking for an alternative to dropping the entire rear suspension out of your car to change the diff. fluid then this is the answer. I think it's www.corvetteclinic.com, they are $55 a kit.

Behave yourselves,

Adam.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MATCHLIGHT
Most of you may already know about this kit from the Corvette Clinic in Sanford, FL, however I just installed on my '90 yesterday and was wasn't a bad job at all. If anyone is looking for an alternative to dropping the entire rear suspension out of your car to change the diff. fluid then this is the answer. I think it's www.corvetteclinic.com, they are $55 a kit.

Behave yourselves,

Adam.

this is the web site:

http://www.corvetteclinicinc.com/
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MATCHLIGHT
If anyone is looking for an alternative to dropping the entire rear suspension out of your car to change the diff. fluid then this is the answer.
There is no need to drop the diff to change the fluid.

Not that a drain plug wouldn't make it easier, but it's not very difficult stock.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Vis Croceus
There is no need to drop the diff to change the fluid.

Not that a drain plug wouldn't make it easier, but it's not very difficult stock.
Did mine with a hand pump. Pump cost $7.50 at Walmart. Backed up on a set of ramps. Ten minute job from start to finish.

"Its so simple, even a caveman could do it".
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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$55?
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Vis Croceus
There is no need to drop the diff to change the fluid.
Well, I couldn't find any other way to turn it over and pour out the old fluid. Not a big deal since it doesn't need to be done THAT frequently.












( )
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 05:01 PM
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Default Suction pump, Cracked Diff

A vacumn suction pump will take every last drop of diff fluid out with very little effort. 40 bucks tops and usefull for other duties. DONT drill the hole. I have seen 2 of the installed rear drain plugs crack the housing under pressure. Anytime you make a hole where one doesn't belong you are asking for trouble. Now I know and have seen many done with no problems as of yet one would have to ask why you would want a drain hole anyway. Even if you drained it every 10,000 miles still wouldn't be worth the chance. Take a look at how much those Dana 44 go for as you are tapping the hole. ....G
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 05:14 PM
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Overpriced product when an inexpensive hand pump from Wal-Mart will do the same job.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 96vetteLT4
DONT drill the hole. I have seen 2 of the installed rear drain plugs crack the housing under pressure. Anytime you make a hole where one doesn't belong you are asking for trouble. Now I know and have seen many done with no problems as of yet one would have to ask why you would want a drain hole anyway. Even if you drained it every 10,000 miles still wouldn't be worth the chance. Take a look at how much those Dana 44 go for as you are tapping the hole. ....G
I use a hand pump, too, for this very reason. Not only is the hole itself a bad idea, but the pipe plug you thread into it has tapered threads which means that, as you tighten it, it is trying to wedge the hole even larger. No wonder cracking occurs; the plug is setting up stresses that the case is not designed to take.

Larry
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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I just don't like the idea of creating another potential leak point, when a hand pump will suck the fluid out just fine.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
I just don't like the idea of creating another potential leak point, when a hand pump will suck the fluid out just fine.

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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
Not only is the hole itself a bad idea, but the pipe plug you thread into it has tapered threads which means that, as you tighten it, it is trying to wedge the hole even larger. No wonder cracking occurs; the plug is setting up stresses that the case is not designed to take.

Larry
code5coupe
I would agree if it's not done properly. First, there's an area just left of center on a 44 that's considerably thicker than the average thickness of the lower part of the casing. (The 36 also has a solid area for this, I've done both) However, drilled there it will still get virtually all of the oil out, certainly as much or more than any method short of unbolting the differential from the cover. A hole drilled here for an 1/8" pipe plug will have no effect on the structual integrity, IMO. Also, when using tapered pipe fittings or plugs, if you tighten it enough to stress a component, it is way too tight. They are not difficult to seal, tapered connections are used in the high pressure side of the oil system in your engine, so if leaks were a problem they'd do it differently. This being said, unless you've got the differential out or a template to locate the proper location, don't go drilling *****-nilly into the bottom of your differential.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:05 AM
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Is there a an inspection access plate that you can remove easily without pulling anything on the back of the danas--like regular differentials do. i would like to be able to pull the plate and either clean the magnet that picks up metal shavings, or put one in. getting out the last of the oil and wiping down the inside of the case is wonderful.

or doesn't the dana have one to give integrity to the aluminum housing?
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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The kit comes with a template, very easy to lay out and drill. The apprehension of shavings left in the diff is not a concern seeing as how the gear oil will take the shavings with it as it drains. Aluminum is a relatively soft metal and doesn't crack under that type of stress, and if you tighten it to the point of enlarging the hole, you shouldn't be working on cars in the first place.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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FYI - To get one of those pumps to evacuate fluid, it is free at autoZone, just leave a deposit. Have used it on transismissions, it was great.

Pulled my fluid about 8 or 9 times before I changed the filter in the vett. Why, it was real nasty and took that long till it got clear. Then changed the oil another 3 times. Used it on my other cars also.
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