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I did not post this!

 

Is that a Vig? I've got a 3000 that I'll be sticking in with the new block so that's good news. For farscape1a, I'd recommend a 24-2800 for street if you go with the Vig. From all reports, the Vig has much better manners and is much more streetable for any given stall. I'd have gone w/ a 2800 but I stole this 3000 so I hope I like it.

 

Nope, I was going to get a Vig 3K and stumbled over a Midwest 2800 for a price I could not pass up.

 

I've run several of the Midwest converters, they are good converters, Raptor sells them.
I've got a Raptor 5X, 9-1/2" converter with a 12" clutch, brand new in the box if you want it. $500 shipped that'll save you $100.
Johnny

 

hey johnny! that raptor 5x is tempting! what's the stall on it? if it's what i'm looking for, i may be interested. i'll let you know if i can do it in a few days if you can hold on to it. thank you very much!!!

 

Just another opinion here....Iv'e had both Vig converters and Yank converters(great converters)..... after seeing what many of the fastest streetcar guys at my local tracks run, and talking to alot of satisfied guys online running custom built Edge converters, I figured I'd give them a try so im now running a custom built street Edge 3000 2.45 STR converter.....It's my favorite of the bunch, beter drivability than my others with the same stall and specs, hit's super hard , and happens to be a little less money as well (about $525), whatever you get, get one built specificly for your combo, not an off the shelf converter

 

No steeling KID. Its illegal!

 

farscape1a
it's a 2800 stall. i had it built for my 427, but i went to a 6 spd.
johnny

 

the stall is a little higher than i'm looking for. i didn't want to go much above 2400 or 2500. it's more of a street car than anything else. thanks anyway johnny!

95NOSvette:

where did you get the street edge from? did you get it from www.pro-built.net? i had been eyeballing them for a while, but never saw any feedback on them. i saw the 9 1/2" locking converter for like $555 (i think that was the one), and it was at the topside of my budget. but all in all, it looked like a nice converter. i was thinking about it in the stall i had stated above...like 2400 or 2500.

 

No problem. I still think you'll like more stall tho'
johnny

 

hi again johnny. i have a question. what would the advantage be to higher stall? both on the street and the strip. are there also any disadvantages? i'm still kinda unsure of that, so any info would be a great help. thanks again!

 

Higher stall gets you into the engines powerband quicker, and higher stall converters, tho technically less efficient, have a higher torque multiplication factor, the 5x has a multi of around 2.5 at stall.

For instance, the engine makes 350 lbs ft @ 2800 rpm and torque falls off below, at 2400 you might have 270 lbs ft A stock converter usually has a torque multiplication factor of around 1.9 at stall speed.

At 2400 stall with 1.9 multi, you have a factored 513 lbs ft of torque available to the tranny. A 700r4 1st gear, 3.06 would give you a factored 1569.8 lbs ft to the output shaft, then a 3.07 gear would give you a factored 4819.2 lbs ft to the tires. In high gear, no lockup you still have 1574.9 lbs ft to the tires.

At 2800 stall with 2.5 multi, you have a factored 875 lbs ft of torque available to the tranny. The same 1st gear, 3.06, would give you a factored 2677.5 lbs ft to the output shaft, then a 3.07 gear would give you a factored 8219.9 lbs ft to the tires at 2800 rpm. In high gear, no lockup you still have 2686.3 lbs ft to the tires.

Even assume the same torque multi factor At 2400 stall with 2.5 multi, you have a factored 675 lbs ft of torque available to the tranny. 3.06 1st gear would give you a factored 2065.5 lbs ft to the output shaft, then 3.07 gear a factored 6341.1 lbs ft to the tires. In high gear, no lockup you have 2072.3 lbs ft to the tires.

Now, I'm being theoreticall and 100% efficiency.

Weight, a 12" converter is going to weigh around 42 lbs and a 9-12" is going to weigh around 30 lbs, the 5x weighs around 35 lbs. Which is going to spin quicker, with less rotational mass? The lighter converter is going to have quicker response, sure it's milli seconds, but ...

The lighter converter will accelerate faster, even in lockup.

Hope this helps
johnny

 

hey johnny! that makes a lot of sense. i forgot about the multiplication factor. now here's a different question. at 2800 stall, how is it for drivability? does that have anything to do with crusing rpm? will the crusing rpm's be higher and initial acceleration rpm be higher? and will that also mean less gas milage (although i don't really worry about that since i'm building a 383)? thanks again!!!

 

Here is something I have been wondering about. Is the accelleration boost noticeable on the street, say when I am cruising at 1500 rpm in town and I roll into it, but not hard enough to kick down the tranny? Or say when I kick it down at 2000 rpm to accellerate onto the highway? Do you feel the effect in these situations as well?
Thanks
Roy

 

Street converters are way different race converters. Had to say that. On the street you'll notice a big difference in take off. Where with a stock converter you give it a bit of gas and engine speed will go up to 1300-1400. You'll feel forward motion and some g force.
With 2800 street stall, you'll jump up to 2000-2200 with the same throttle push, the car will move with greater motion and greater g force, a noticeable difference.
Roll along at 20 mph with the stock converter, stomp it and you'll get brisk forward motion on the down shift. With the 2800, you'll have wheelspin and serious forward motion.
Program the computer to lock up the converter on a manual 1-2 shift and light manual 1-2 shifts will feel like you let out on a clutch, no stall.
Once the converter locks up, where ever it's programmed and it acts like a stock converter.
You may loose a little gas mileage around town, it will depend on your new driving habits. You'll have to give it a bit more throttle to take off, see last sentence.
Now, when the trans is in gear you won't have the hard jerk when it goes into gear, greater slippage, and a smoother higher idle. The engine won't try to die when you put it in gear, idle vacuum will be higher also. This will be most noticeable in the higher stalls.

Street converters vs race converters, race converters will hardly move briskly until they get near their stall speeds, vice versa on the street converters. Looser? Torque multiplication is less also.

fastmax - when you get into the throttle, not enough to cause a downshift, you're into the powerband quicker, more torque, much more lively acceleration.

One thing, an auxillary tranny oil cooler is mandatory, you'll hear some con on this. I'll say one thing on that, greater slippage, greater heat, trannys don't like hot fluid.
johnny

 

I went with a TCI 2800 stall in my 95. The only difference I noticed is it shoots up to around 2600-2800 rpms if you floor it. I'm still trying to learn how to launch better without spinning so much. I have an auto trans with 3.07 gears. I've tried flooring it and I've also tried braking it up to 2600 then lettering go. I think I just need more practice, or something other than street tires, cause I'm getting too much spin. Now I have to learn to use the NOS at the right time also. Gas milage and driveablilty were completely unaffected by the converter. If you are worried about street manners don't. I also had a shift kit put in and the trans rebuilt. The shift kit deffinitely made a difference and did effect the street driveability. I now get a little rear screech at 2nd and sometimes 3rd and it's a much harder shift. It sometimes seems like the trans is slipping but I was told this is normal. No complaints here other than traction with street tires.

 

okay...i forgot to ask another question. how does breaking feel at a complete stop? i remember that i had to press the break pedal hard to keep the car from moving with the stock converter. how is it with the higher stall converters? thanks!

 

When the trans is in gear you won't have the hard jerk when it goes into gear, greater slippage, and a smoother higher idle. The engine won't try to die when you put it in gear, idle vacuum will be higher also. This will be most noticeable in the higher stalls.

Braking will not be hard to do, assuming you have enough vac for the booster. Wide LSA will help idle vac. Same as above.
johnny

 

Sorry for the slow responce iv'e been working alot.......Dana over at Pro-built automatics is a great guy to deal with (he did my modified trans-go shift kit) and a good source to get the edge converters, but I got mine custom built right from Andre the owner of Edge racing....$525 from Edge directly..In my opinion, for the mixture of value and performance you get they're hard to beat , IME, their totaly on par with converters for the same application that cost several hundred more, and their customer service and attention to detail while building the converter to my exact engine output and gearing was better than I've ever experienced with all the other converter companys I delt with over the years, and it was also the very first converter that stalled EXACTLY where he said it would.....many of the other guys converters were always off a bit cause they don't make them specificly for your set-up I bet if you go with a 2400-2500 stall like you mentioned, you will find it very mild, and that you wished you would have gone higher.....there really not like the old style LOOSE converters with all kinds of bad characteristics....my tranny temps diddn't even go up to any substantial degree...I'd go "at least" 2800-3000 in my honest opinion....you wont loose an ounce of drivability with this kind of quality converter... many people I take for rides don't even realize it has a converter till ya really step on it, and then it feels like you got rearended by a school bus going 60 MPH..LOL... I also drive 70 miles in traffic, to and from work.

 

Almost Identical to stock, mabe just a hair "less" brake pedal pressure when your in gear at a stop(not more)......your shifts will also be much softer at part throttle after the converter install, this is why many guys (right after) go for a high quality shift kit like the (modified transgo) unit from pro-built automatics(not the regular off the shelf transgo kit)..this will bring your part throttle shifts about back to how it felt stock and give you much harder shifts at higher amounts of throttle(for perfect streetability)