I saw a thread on hear a while back about installing a lowering kit. I can't seem to find it in the archives. I was wondering how difficult the front spacers are to install and what type of tools you used for the install. Did you have a lift or just a jack and jack stands?

Thanks
Alan

 

Hi Alan, I am doing this as I type (well, I am taking a break from the car right now!) How hard is it? Well, honestly it is not that hard. You do have to lift the car about 1 1/2 foot off the ground to be able to snake the spring out.

Steps:

1) Jack up the front end of the car - both sides - put on jack stands.
2) Remove the front wheels
3) Remove the front shocks
4) Disconnect the front sway bar end links
5) Disconnect the lower control arm from the spindle assembly at the lower ball joint
6) Remove the spring covers from the bottom of the car - 1 each side
7) Remove the lower control arms - 2 bolts each
8) Disconnect the spring from the frame - 2 bolts each side. The front bolt is easy, the rear bolt is hard to get to, is in a hole in the crossmember. Actually with enough extensions it is fairly easy to get to. I used about 18" of extensions then it was almost a straight shot down behind/beside the A/C compressor and behind/beside the alternator.
9) Slide the spring out from either side.
10) Cut the top rubber mounts off the spring.
11) Attach the poly wedges either to the spring (Vette Brakes instructions) or to the frame (Mid America instructions).
12) (Optional) Trim the rubber end pads on the bottom of the spring at the A-arms (make them thinner).
13) Depending on the year of your car, you may need to trim the spring mounts or replace the spring mounts, depends on who you talk to and whose instructions you follw.
14) Reassemble in reverse.
15) Have the car aligned.

Whew. I am at step 12 now.

Good luck with your decision.

Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 coupe



[Modified by tommelton, 10:13 PM 8/21/2001]

 

Hey Tom, my motor is out having it built to a 383. The hood is also off. I want to eventually install a lowernig kit, also. Maybe a dumb ?, but do you feel it would be easier to install a lowering kit with the engine out? I did'nt want too many things going on without getting my engine back in, but it may save time. Also, did you explore coil-overs???

Thanks, Bruce.

 

Remember, measure your ride height at all corners. I think you will find, as many of us have, that the ride height (ground to fenderwell) is different and you will have to adjust the left to right to get the same gap between the fender and tire. I believe the fenders are not the same size left to right. Please check 1st. Steve

 

Bruce, I think getting to the rear bolts that hold the sping in would be easier with the motor out. But, after saying that, if you get lucky as I did, and have the RIGHT combination of extensions, it was not bad to get to those.

Since your motor is out, look at the crossmember, right besides the steering shaft from the steering wheel, down beside the plastic cover over the joint. See that hole, perhaps 1 to 1 1/4 inch in diameter, the rear bolt is in there, and in the same hole on the passenger side.

Tell me what you think.

-Tom

 

Here's some pics on to go with the directions above:
http://www5.ewebcity.com/timbarnes/index.asp

 

I have one of those kits at home that I have been hesitant to install because of ground clearance worries. Please let me know how you like yours when you finish it up. Thanks.