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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
That's beautiful man. Maybe now I can go back to autocrossing in stock class.
FELNGR8, sounds like you're inside front wheel may be trying to lock up on corner entry. You lose some braking ability while turning in. I'm thinking due to the master cylinder design, that the ABS can't modulate the front brakes seperately, although it might be benefitial for racing if it doesn't spin you out first.
That's beautiful man. Maybe now I can go back to autocrossing in stock class.
FELNGR8, sounds like you're inside front wheel may be trying to lock up on corner entry. You lose some braking ability while turning in. I'm thinking due to the master cylinder design, that the ABS can't modulate the front brakes seperately, although it might be benefitial for racing if it doesn't spin you out first.
Both my master cylinder lines go to the ABS module, then I do have separate lines from the ABS module to each wheel, and I'm sure it can modualate each wheel separately. But the greater braking force from the larger fronts may be giving me some lockup. I also thought the tight radius of turns on the Dragon gives a difference in speed of the two front tires, enough to activate the ABS. The ABS modulation doesn't upset the car at all but is something I didn't experience with the base brakes. I will be installing the DRM bias spring before the next trip to Carolina so I'll see how that affects things. With 108K miles on the car it makes sense to install the spring in a new M/C instead of the one on the car now.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
The DRM will absolutely help. Otherwise your brake upgrade will give you premature ABS activation. I seriously doubt the differing wheel speeds is a factor.
One more thing, some of you guys don't know sh*t from shiola, now get with the program and start advising your fellow vette brother correctly.
I mean, you shouldn't take anything on the internet as truth. But I just searched your posts...and I don't see anyone telling you that the C5 calipers would work with TTs.
More importantly, why would you assume the 1/8" required spacer needed for later Vette's wouldn't apply to your TT2's, just because AFS knock off ZR1s work?
Thats apples to oranges, I don't think you can blame the forum for this. But feel free to prove me wrong.
Point being, you should double check everything.
Had a C5 front brake kit from VBP with Hawk HP+ pads on my ex-'92 with the stock sized rears and they worked Compared to some others, it was reasonably priced at about $1000. Ran several track days with them no problem, and it'd outstop the factory brakes on my C5 Z06 (probably due to the pads). I'd suggest going with slotted only rotors as the drilled ones do tend to crack. Still don't understand the hate for the C5 brake upgrade on the C4, except that some 17" wheels will not clear. C5 factory 17" wheels will clear, since that's what I used on the track. I went with the "as delivered" VBP package with just a pad upgrade, installed them myself in about 3 hours one afternoon and they were on my car for about 3 years with no problems before I sold it.
Last edited by eschantra; May 14, 2006 at 03:23 PM.
Huh? Should I go with the green stuff instead? I heard they had good pads. I really want a pad that does not creat a huge ammount of dust and that performs well and does not wear fast. Would not ceramics be the best choice for this?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by red_johnny
Huh? Should I go with the green stuff instead? I heard they had good pads. I really want a pad that does not creat a huge ammount of dust and that performs well and does not wear fast. Would not ceramics be the best choice for this?
Yeah, ceramics fit your needs. I'm just bustin your ***** for not using the dustiest stickiest racing brakes that sound like an African elephant in heat when you use em.
And btw, nobody makes ceramic pads for your rear brakes.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; May 16, 2006 at 09:41 PM.
From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.
if you don't like dust, paint the majority of the rims black. that's what i'm going to do, and it will gave a face lift and modernize the look of my old-style, gotti, three piece rims.
Now I have C5 brakes, too ... Brembo rotors purchased at Porsche (the price is the half compared to buying direct from Brembo ) with custom 7075 Aluminum hats and black painted calipers.
Don't care about the right rotor on the left side ... it is not finaly mounted. I have to wait for the tires and this was only a test if all parts would fit together. I'll use Hawk HPS Pads ...
Btw, thanks to Sixxcat1 for this as good as new wheels
Yeah, ceramics fit your needs. I'm just bustin your ***** for not using the dustiest stickiest racing brakes that sound like an African elephant in heat when you use em.
And btw, nobody makes ceramic pads for your rear brakes.
I guess I am back in this boat with the same question as the original poster. I got the C5 calipers in my garage right now. I intended to use the car for street/track but since plans have now changed, I am wondering if C5 calipers are what I should go with. Going back to this post, I am wondering if they still stack up with my "modified" criteria.
Originally Posted by ScaryFast
So...please rank the following items in a rough order of what's most important:
1. Cost
2. Appearance
3. Absolute stopping power
4. Fade resistance
5. Dust emittance
6. Noise or squeal
7. Street or track / Auto-X use
This will help us narrow your answer down immensely.
3 & 4 are pretty much at the top (both are pretty darn important) and the answer to 7 would be pretty much track/auto-x exclusively. 2, 5, and 6 dont mean much since it wont be a show car or daily driver and I would be lying if I said 1 didnt matter (if it didnt, Movit kit would be in my garage, not C5 calipers).
Centralcoaster brought up some damn good points about pads and rotors, which is why I think the C5 calipers may still work with some good Hawk race pads (Blue 9012's?) and slotted rotors as far as absolute stopping power. Fade resistance... good race brake fluid?
Some good information in this thread, but mostly at a higher level. The details of brake systems include the piston diameters in the master cylinder and brake calipers.
Grabbing a caliper off the shelf that "looks good" may have a dramatic effect on the braking ability of the car. I have some software tools that compute the brake clamping forces, line pressures, CG change, etc, etc. for designing a brake system for a race car. I'm currently working on the suspension design for my 1969 Prepared AutoX car - ground up suspension development.
I have some software tools that compute the brake clamping forces, line pressures, CG change, etc, etc. for designing a brake system for a race car.
Ryan
I wonder if some software guru could change this software to make it work with our brake systems